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> My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff
a914622
post Aug 7 2013, 07:19 AM
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Some of the conections at the ecu are spliced just to shorten. It is pretty straight forward. keep the diode, subarus wont run with out it. (can be pulled for a start kill).
out put wires are:
big yellow= battery +
blue = fuel pump +
blk/wht = ign+
blk/yellow = starter crank
red/yellow = check engine
yellow small= tack signal
yel/red = vss/speed sensor
ornge = back up power/ bat+
yel/black,yel/grn= ecu power out(fans)

I left the pics huge so you can click and zoom in. hope this helps.

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Chris H.
post Aug 7 2013, 07:30 AM
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Thank you Jeff!!!!!
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Chris H.
post Aug 7 2013, 09:27 PM
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Hey Jeff,

I'm not recognizing the two plugs arrowed below. Any idea what they are for? I have separated the engine harness from the main one but those two plugs weren't part of it I don't think. I still have the whole wiring harness so should have them somewhere if needed...

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euro911
post Aug 7 2013, 10:20 PM
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Black = blinker fluid reservoir, low level sensor
White = muffler bearing wear sensors (L & R)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


Looks like you're making good progress, Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Chris H.
post Aug 8 2013, 07:24 AM
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Thanks Mark! I'm thinking these are wires I have in the harness but I cut the plugs off. Not the fun part for sure. Jeff's pics are extremely helpful! Hopefully he recognizes these last couple plugs.
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76-914
post Aug 14 2013, 04:46 PM
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Guess where I found this? Page 5. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Either you've been too busy working on your car or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) you've been neglecting it. I thought it my duty to bring this back to page 1. So I read in another post you are re-using the OG 914 CV's?
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Chris H.
post Aug 14 2013, 06:31 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 14 2013, 05:46 PM) *

Guess where I found this? Page 5. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Either you've been too busy working on your car or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) you've been neglecting it. I thought it my duty to bring this back to page 1. So I read in another post you are re-using the OG 914 CV's?


Yes I need to update this....I'll get to it tomorrow. Got a lot done actually and my engine is in. I'm sure it will have to come back out for some reason but it's in for now.

I did reuse my CV's but my setup is different than yours..only use 914 CV's on the outers.

This was an EXTREMELY helpful how-to guide...

914 CV Repacking

It's messy to repack them...verrrrry messy. Plan on throwing the shirt you wear away and whatever gloves, rags and stuff you use as well. You can tell very easily if your CV's are still good or not. The guy even shows an example of a bad one. And there is an extra set left over for when I break one later... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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DBCooper
post Aug 14 2013, 08:34 PM
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That's my CV configuration too, bus CV's inside, weaker 914 CV's out. The thinking was that I'd keep the 914's as the intended weak link, a "fuse" to protect the more expensive transmission. Well, I've blown that fuse three times already, and I can say that it isn't that easy to get to all the shards of the outer CV's out of the trailing arms after they've exploded and the screws are sheared off. I still like the idea of an easily replaceable fuse protecting the drive line, but sometime soon I'll convert the outers to 944's so I have a better chance of breaking the inners. Just a heads-up.

I dropped a greasy exploded CV onto a yellow t-shirt while under the car, made an abstract shape right in the middle of the chest. Wouldn't wash out so I took a sharpie and framed it, then signed it illegibly, as art, and now wear it proudly when I mow the lawn.



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Chris H.
post Aug 14 2013, 08:43 PM
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Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. Once the first CV blows I am moving to 944 outer CV's. My inner CV's are actually Subie, so that makes the "fuse" even more vulnerable. If I ever updated this thread it would be easier to see that!

Dropping a CV full of greasy metal would make quite a mess! I threw 4 pairs of Harbor Freight gloves away myself...and left fingerprints on everything in the garage. Had to wash most of my tools with Simple Green!
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76-914
post Aug 14 2013, 08:58 PM
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Can't wait to see some pic's. What is your ground clearance? An epoxy coated floor helps some when it's time to clean up the grease.
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Chris H.
post Aug 15 2013, 08:02 PM
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OK Kent, here you go!

These wheels were the best things I ever did to the car

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The passenger side is a little tight...might have to roll it.

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View from the back..note the exhaust system Bob made...the mufflers will be totally hidden when the valance is replaced. Tips are a bit high because the mount is slightly different but easily fixed with some heat...

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The lowest point of the car has 5 inches of ground clearance... I had to cut the mount bracing to fit the headers but will replace before driving the car.

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Ordered the radiator...it's 31X11...anyone want to guess the crazy idea I have for it?

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From the top:

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To do:

- cooling system
-cable shifter (Kent did you order your cables?)
-fuel lines
-complete the engine wiring harness (almost done)
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Mike Bellis
post Aug 15 2013, 08:50 PM
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While I agree it would be great to fit the rad in the rear... Water is heavy. Pivoting a heavy radiator as an engine lid is fraught with peril.

Engineering a pivot point that will allow a HOT radiator to open so you can access the engine will be a challenge.

The ability to remove all the air from the system will be critical. Think about designing a self bleeding system. This will require a holding tank "T"ed into the water pump suction line. A bleeder valve (smaller Orifice than the radiator hose) at the highest point will spill into the holding tank. This can be a modified overflow line at the radiator cap. So as the system is pumping, the air will dump into the holding tank. Water in the tank will displace the air. Most German cars since the 70's have a system that works this way.

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Chris H.
post Aug 15 2013, 09:13 PM
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Thanks Mike! Very thoughtful comments. It's just a crazy idea until the radiator gets here. Might not work but the rain tray is thicker than the radiator so who knows? I did buy a couple of reversible 10" fans so I have the option to blow the air out of the engine bay if I go that way. In speaking with Bob last week I think I will need a self-bleeding system either way so the cost to try it is really just a few feet of radiator hose...thanks for the explanation. As usual I was over-thinking the requirements.

If it doesn't work I always wanted to use the Cherokee radiator anyway. Should fit very well up front.
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76-914
post Aug 15 2013, 10:24 PM
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Wow! Look's great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Your way ahead of me Chris. I haven't ordered cables yet. I have a mock order but I am holding off until I can get my oval exhaust piece fabbed. It would be a costly and unnecessary expense to find that I needed to reroute. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I'm 5.25" clearance for now. The bottom of those plastic diffusers are the same and they never would scrape so I think we're good. BTW, hope to get those exhaust pieces fabbed this week. I don't know if I can be of any help in that our measurements will be different because of our shifter differences. Great progress Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Edit: those wheels look great and you have a beautiful car.
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Chris H.
post Aug 16 2013, 05:24 AM
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Thanks Kent! Yours is going to turn out awesome as well. Just keep in mind I didn't have to fabricate an engine/trans mount. You'll catch up for sure. On the cables Bob (as usual) gave me a pretty good idea of how it works. The shifter has to be modified slightly but that's OK. I'll focus on the fuel lines next. Bought a Walbro 392 pump (stole the idea directly from DBCooper) and will put it in the stock location. You can ditch the stock 914 fuel filter since the Subie one resides in the engine bay and is much larger.
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euro911
post Aug 16 2013, 09:35 AM
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You can run straight exhausts? ... no cross-over needed?

Looks great so far (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Chris H.
post Aug 16 2013, 10:34 AM
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Yes there was some debate about that a while back but yes you can on a flat 6er.
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euro911
post Aug 16 2013, 12:27 PM
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I'd love to have an SVX in the Westy camper, but as age creeps up, I think more about fuel economy. I think the CARB approved 2.2L is all I'll be doing when it comes time.
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Chris H.
post Aug 16 2013, 12:44 PM
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Mark have you joined the Yahoo Subaru Vanagon Group? If not you really should do it today. Lots of really cool info.

Linky

SWAP IT!!!! Also before you decide against an SVXANAGON watch this vid:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCO4I4Am8x4
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Chris H.
post Aug 16 2013, 12:50 PM
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So I open my fuel tank...the GREAT part is that the thing is clean as can be inside...looks new....the funny part....looks like I'm not the only DAPO! What's this?

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Looks like an old wash cloth! I picture someone's wife coming into a garage about 20 years ago and asking, "Honey where did you set that wash cloth when you were done with it?"...guy responds with "Ummmm....dunno sorry..." And there she sits...
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