My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Thanks Mark! I'm thinking these are wires I have in the harness but I cut the plugs off. Not the fun part for sure. Jeff's pics are extremely helpful! Hopefully he recognizes these last couple plugs.

[76-914]

Guess where I found this? Page 5. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Either you've been too busy working on your car or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) you've been neglecting it. I thought it my duty to bring this back to page 1. So I read in another post you are re-using the OG 914 CV's?

[Chris H.]

Guess where I found this? Page 5. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Either you've been too busy working on your car or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) you've been neglecting it. I thought it my duty to bring this back to page 1. So I read in another post you are re-using the OG 914 CV's?

Yes I need to update this....I'll get to it tomorrow. Got a lot done actually and my engine is in. I'm sure it will have to come back out for some reason but it's in for now.

I did reuse my CV's but my setup is different than yours..only use 914 CV's on the outers.

This was an EXTREMELY helpful how-to guide...

914 CV Repacking

It's messy to repack them...verrrrry messy. Plan on throwing the shirt you wear away and whatever gloves, rags and stuff you use as well. You can tell very easily if your CV's are still good or not. The guy even shows an example of a bad one. And there is an extra set left over for when I break one later... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[DBCooper]

That's my CV configuration too, bus CV's inside, weaker 914 CV's out. The thinking was that I'd keep the 914's as the intended weak link, a "fuse" to protect the more expensive transmission. Well, I've blown that fuse three times already, and I can say that it isn't that easy to get to all the shards of the outer CV's out of the trailing arms after they've exploded and the screws are sheared off. I still like the idea of an easily replaceable fuse protecting the drive line, but sometime soon I'll convert the outers to 944's so I have a better chance of breaking the inners. Just a heads-up.

I dropped a greasy exploded CV onto a yellow t-shirt while under the car, made an abstract shape right in the middle of the chest. Wouldn't wash out so I took a sharpie and framed it, then signed it illegibly, as art, and now wear it proudly when I mow the lawn.

[Chris H.]

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. Once the first CV blows I am moving to 944 outer CV's. My inner CV's are actually Subie, so that makes the "fuse" even more vulnerable. If I ever updated this thread it would be easier to see that!

Dropping a CV full of greasy metal would make quite a mess! I threw 4 pairs of Harbor Freight gloves away myself...and left fingerprints on everything in the garage. Had to wash most of my tools with Simple Green!

[76-914]

Can't wait to see some pic's. What is your ground clearance? An epoxy coated floor helps some when it's time to clean up the grease.

[Chris H.]

OK Kent, here you go!

These wheels were the best things I ever did to the car



The passenger side is a little tight...might have to roll it.



View from the back..note the exhaust system Bob made...the mufflers will be totally hidden when the valance is replaced. Tips are a bit high because the mount is slightly different but easily fixed with some heat...





The lowest point of the car has 5 inches of ground clearance... I had to cut the mount bracing to fit the headers but will replace before driving the car.







Ordered the radiator...it's 31X11...anyone want to guess the crazy idea I have for it?



From the top:




To do:

- cooling system
-cable shifter (Kent did you order your cables?)
-fuel lines
-complete the engine wiring harness (almost done)

[Mike Bellis]

While I agree it would be great to fit the rad in the rear... Water is heavy. Pivoting a heavy radiator as an engine lid is fraught with peril.

Engineering a pivot point that will allow a HOT radiator to open so you can access the engine will be a challenge.

The ability to remove all the air from the system will be critical. Think about designing a self bleeding system. This will require a holding tank "T"ed into the water pump suction line. A bleeder valve (smaller Orifice than the radiator hose) at the highest point will spill into the holding tank. This can be a modified overflow line at the radiator cap. So as the system is pumping, the air will dump into the holding tank. Water in the tank will displace the air. Most German cars since the 70's have a system that works this way.

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Chris H.]

Thanks Mike! Very thoughtful comments. It's just a crazy idea until the radiator gets here. Might not work but the rain tray is thicker than the radiator so who knows? I did buy a couple of reversible 10" fans so I have the option to blow the air out of the engine bay if I go that way. In speaking with Bob last week I think I will need a self-bleeding system either way so the cost to try it is really just a few feet of radiator hose...thanks for the explanation. As usual I was over-thinking the requirements.

If it doesn't work I always wanted to use the Cherokee radiator anyway. Should fit very well up front.

[76-914]

Wow! Look's great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Your way ahead of me Chris. I haven't ordered cables yet. I have a mock order but I am holding off until I can get my oval exhaust piece fabbed. It would be a costly and unnecessary expense to find that I needed to reroute. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I'm 5.25" clearance for now. The bottom of those plastic diffusers are the same and they never would scrape so I think we're good. BTW, hope to get those exhaust pieces fabbed this week. I don't know if I can be of any help in that our measurements will be different because of our shifter differences. Great progress Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Edit: those wheels look great and you have a beautiful car.

[Chris H.]

Thanks Kent! Yours is going to turn out awesome as well. Just keep in mind I didn't have to fabricate an engine/trans mount. You'll catch up for sure. On the cables Bob (as usual) gave me a pretty good idea of how it works. The shifter has to be modified slightly but that's OK. I'll focus on the fuel lines next. Bought a Walbro 392 pump (stole the idea directly from DBCooper) and will put it in the stock location. You can ditch the stock 914 fuel filter since the Subie one resides in the engine bay and is much larger.

[euro911]

You can run straight exhausts? ... no cross-over needed?

Looks great so far (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Chris H.]

Yes there was some debate about that a while back but yes you can on a flat 6er.

[euro911]

I'd love to have an SVX in the Westy camper, but as age creeps up, I think more about fuel economy. I think the CARB approved 2.2L is all I'll be doing when it comes time.

[Chris H.]

Mark have you joined the Yahoo Subaru Vanagon Group? If not you really should do it today. Lots of really cool info.

Linky

SWAP IT!!!! Also before you decide against an SVXANAGON watch this vid:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCO4I4Am8x4

[Chris H.]

So I open my fuel tank...the GREAT part is that the thing is clean as can be inside...looks new....the funny part....looks like I'm not the only DAPO! What's this?







Looks like an old wash cloth! I picture someone's wife coming into a garage about 20 years ago and asking, "Honey where did you set that wash cloth when you were done with it?"...guy responds with "Ummmm....dunno sorry..." And there she sits...

[wingnut86]

Nope,

OSHA approved hazmat cleanup tool for "leaded" fuels;-P

[76-914]

Wow, that is super clean. Everybody is somebodies DAPO. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[euro911]

Thanks for the link, Chris. Just submitted my request (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I'm watching your progress too, Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[a914622]

Chris
Sorry to leave you hanging but that stupid work messed up a prefect week!!

So the black one is diagnostic hook up for the obd1. you only need the blue/orange/black. this is also were you get in to reprogram or turn off things.(16 pin at the ecu)

the other is slect monitor for tranny if your using an auto.

the 2 big blue ones are a nutrual swith that never camr to the states. can be use for engine kill or im going to use it as a clutch in.


jeff l