My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Yeah Mike, I was hoping the same thing. Hate the idea of cutting my trunk. My brother and I messed with it for quite a while today. Nothing lined up well. The radiator was too far back to close the lid, then when we moved it forward the filler was in the way. It's also pretty close to the engine...as you predicted there is no way you could work on the car without some special bracket so you can remove the rad entirely while still connected to the engine.

Here are the miscellaneous cooling ramblings we were considering:

- a ram air scoop forcing air down through the fresh air vent between the wipers back through the heater ducts with 3" hose running right to the radiator (would have to remove the air box that is there)
- a scoop under the car forcing air up - although it would be very hard to direct it through the radiator , lots of air would go out the sides of the lid
- running some light weight ducting under the car (as straight as possible) from front to back, then right up to the radiator. Something similar to a house gutter down spout (but bigger or more of them). It would have to be light weight or you'd have to drill a bunch of mounting holes.... This would probably be effective but it would be pretty low on the car and could be ripped off fairly easily. Hate to lose it at say, 70 mph...

At that point we realized it still might not be enough air for the EG33. This could certainly work for a smaller normally aspirated Subie conversion(2.2, even 2.5) but this rad isn't quite as big as the stock SVX rad...Maybe next time!

[euro911]

Can you mount it flat in the rear trunk?

Cut out an opening in the floor, add a ducting scoop below to suck cool air up, then duct the exhaust flow through a nice mesh grille between the tail lights (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

You might still have room to stow the targa top too ???

[Chris H.]

The exhaust system is in the way back there...plus my rear trunk is prettier than the front one... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif).

[Chris H.]

BTW Mike if you want to mess around with the radiator I will ship it to you. "For the good of the community" ya know.... I can't return it anyway since I mounted the fans and made some ugly indentations in the fins. I don't have the confidence to do any major surgery on it but you can. What would be ideal is to use a roller or parts car to play around with the configuration.

[904svo]

check out what this guy did for cooling.
http://clubnarp.com/
wrx914 build.

It will give you some ideas.

[euro911]

Yeah, that's Mike (Ruby914's) thread

Here's the direct link Click Here

[Chris H.]

Yeah that carbon fiber front trunk air ducting is awesome. Might try to do one in fiberglass. Better learn fiberglassing then....make a mold, plug, glass it...

[Mike Bellis]

Yea, this is pretty awesome. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1.ifrm.com-10496-1377576492.1.jpg)

[ruby914]

I was hoping you would be the one that could make an engine lid radiator work. It's a good idea in theory but a PITA in practice. You could try Boxster dual front fender radiators. I might go this route some day. I miss having a front trunk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Mike, Chris, I think your on to something good. Thanks for the good words on my duct but that is so 2011. You can one up me and use the Boxster dual front fender radiators in the rear fenders. Inter through rear flares and exhaust through the engine bay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Chris H.]

Well, maybe on the next one....if I hadn't found the 3.3 I would have gone with a 2.5 non-T and that would have worked with my setup (I think) because I could have built a cradle for the rad and it would not have needed so much air. The 3.3 is fairly large physically compared to the 2.5 or 3.0. No room for that. Plus I like having arm hair. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

[BRZCory]

Hello there from RS25. I was googling EG33 stuff and found your build! Very interesting!

If you need any wiring help, I can give you a little help and advice. I have an EG33 swapped impreza, and it's been running on the stock SVX Ecu for nearly a year now. I am swapping over to a megasquirt though, in preparation for a supercharger.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1144.photobucket.com-419-1381079351.1.jpg)

I saw earlier you were worried about the coolant temp sensor? Just a little heads up, the EG33 uses 2 temp sensors, located right next to eachother. The 2 wire sensor is for the ECU, and the single wire sensor is for the gauge cluster. If you know what the stock porsche sensor's resistance curve looks like, I know I've got the resistance curve for the subaru sensor around here somewhere to compare it to. Alternatively you could just replace the subaru cluster sensor with the porsche sensor, though you may have to make an adapter, or drill/tap the hole for a different size.

Also, I'd recommend hooking up the Check Engine Light to something. The OBD1 ECU allows you to pull CEL codes by connecting 2 wires (no external code scanner required!). It does this by flashing the CEL at you (it's kind of like morse code, long long short short short would be code 23, etc.) This can be MAJORLY helpful in troubleshooting (My ECU coolant temp sensor got damaged somehow when I was installing my motor, and it wouldn't fire without it! I wouldn't have been able to diagnose this without the flashing CEL telling me!).

The EGR system can be removed without any big fanfare. Just leave the solenoids connected to nothing and the ECU will be happy. Block off the hole in the header if you're using the stock subaru headers, and block off the opening on the intake manifold. I've gotten a CEL once from this, and it was because I gassed it immediately after filling up the fuel tank. No big deal.

The radiator is always a pain. Comes with the territory. Good luck on that! I can tell you though, that with my Griffin (think it's a 26"x13"x3"thick) double-pass radiator, my fans have never kicked on under normal conditions. It just doesn't get hot enough. I let it idle for 2 hours once just to test this (during the summer) and nothing. Soon as I unplugged the coolant temp sensor they kicked right on (so they were connected properly). I don't know if you've got room for that, but it works well for me. Part number: GRI-2-58190-X

Also, you probably want to replace the water pump. I've had several of them leak on me (the seal for the water pump shaft goes bad). When you do, use a stock subaru thermostat. The aftermarket thermostats tend to be junk and cause problems.

Here are a few of our build threads that may be of use to you:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t173252-bo...ie-dropper.html
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t71120-ric...-230-na-hp.html

Best of luck to you on your build! I'll be following along! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(Also, whatever you do, make sure the IRIS system is functioning properly. Replace all the old and brittle vacuum lines under the manifold while you've got access. The IRIS system is responsible for ~30hp in the midrange, due to it's variable intake geometry)

PPS: Don't go to nasioc. They're pretty much the devil. I only go there for cheap parts and local guys. RS25 is much friendlier. Subaru-SVX is also a great forum with some dedicated fellows who will hate you for "Chopping up a perfectly good SVX"

[Chris H.]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Wow Cory thank you so much for the info and for bridging the Subie-Porsche 914 gap. I have found RS25 to be very helpful. In fact many of the things you mentioned I did because of that site. Bought a new iris valve, changed all of the vacuum hoses (which were as brittle as uncooked spaghetti), eliminated the ECU but left the solenoids plugged in etc. I'm tackling the wiring now, so thanks for the CEL insight. I think 95 was the last year for OBD1 which is good. I also did replace the water pump. I re-sealed the engine but did not do the head gasket (hope that doesn't come back to haunt me).

On the temp sensor I think I will hook up both gauges and see how they read...the Porsche sender is only $20 so I can add that if need be.

I think I speak for all Subie swap people when I say thanks for introducing yourself. Your comments are welcome! Can't wait to peruse your build (Might have seen it but not the photobucket link).

[Chris H.]

Well thanks to some help from Jeff and others, I figured out the wiring harness. The little SOB runs. Only ran it for a minute or so because it's not plumbed for a radiator yet but it RUNS! Wow that is very motivating. It's very smooth and you can just feel the power when you rev it. I'll miss the clacketyclacketyclack of the valves but probably will get over it when I hammer the throttle.

Some pics of my custom intake...didn't want to use the stock one and started researching....seems the SVX guys debate about the effectiveness of a cold air intake. The issue is that the stock airbox pulls air from the fender, which is cooler. A cone air filter generally goes in the engine bay to prevent hydrolocking...so the air is hotter. No increase in hp and some say it's a decrease. I noticed a lot of LS1 guys have their intakes in the trunk. It was very hard to find a dual-inlet "snorkel" intake that the SVX has. The one I used was a 300GTVR4. The tubes are 2" vs 2.75" with the SVX, so silicone reducers were used. I could cut the intake where it bends to gain more trunk room but I kind of like how it looks now.

Pics:

The first cut is the deepest....OUCH!



If you want to do a cone filter conversion for the SVX, find a MAF adapter for a "Z32" Nissan, which is 90's 300ZX, Infiniti J30, I30 through 1997. The MAF itself IS NOT THE SAME, but the casing is exactly the same. I bought this one:

MAF Adapter

It has a seal and is made of plastic so it works well with the plastic MAF.

More pics:

[Chris H.]

The one issue I am having is that my alternator belt is squeaking like crazy. It only has 3 ribs which is likely the problem but it also might not be quite tight enough. The power steering pump bracket has a tensioner on it, but once you remove that you cannot tension this belt. I know Bob made a tensioner for his. Anyone else have a recommendation for a belt that is approximately 25 inches long with 4 or 5 ribs? What have others used for a belt in this situation?

[CptTripps]

That's awesome man. Great work.

Damn-satisfying to finally be at a point where you can see the end.

[DBCooper]

Don't have that motor so can't help, but are you sure it's the belt? Drip some water onto the belt's grooves when it's running and if the squeaking stops it's the rubber, if not it's something else. Might juust need tightening, might need to be replaced. Belts can also get glazed and when the alternator's pulling a lot of power for a low battery it can slip the belt, then once it's not charging as much it'll improve. If it's not the belt making the noise it could be an idler or alternator bearing, especially if the belt's over-tight.

If it's not stock you can get any belt you want at any parts store, just take in yours and measure. You have a three-rib belt? On four or five rib pulleys? Sounds odd, but it's all still stock, isn't it? If so just get the right replacement.

[Chris H.]

Don't have that motor so can't help, but are you sure it's the belt? Drip some water onto the belt's grooves when it's running and if the squeaking stops it's the rubber, if not it's something else. Might juust need tightening, might need to be replaced. Belts can also get glazed and when the alternator's pulling a lot of power for a low battery it can slip the belt, then once it's not charging as much it'll improve. If it's not the belt making the noise it could be an idler or alternator bearing, especially if the belt's over-tight.

If it's not stock you can get any belt you want at any parts store, just take in yours and measure. You have a three-rib belt? On four or five rib pulleys? Sounds odd, but it's all still stock, isn't it? If so just get the right replacement.

Yeah I'm sure it's the belt DB but thanks for the ideas....I can smell it...it must be a little too loose or too thin for the application so its slipping. It's not stock, normally there is a 4 rib belt (I think) driving both the alternator and the power steering pump. I removed the pump which also housed the tensioner. So the stock belt is way too big now. Unfortunately this means I have to figure out EXACTLY what size belt to buy or make a tensioner somehow. Initially I used a 25inch belt, so I might try a 4 rib 24.5 inch and see if that works.

[Chris H.]

That's awesome man. Great work.

Damn-satisfying to finally be at a point where you can see the end.

Thanks! Getting it started is the most concerning part. If it doesn't start it could be a million things. You start thinking about the things you might have messed up along the way. I thought maybe the timing belt wasn't right because it wasn't idling, but realized I just needed to take up the slack in the throttle body and its fine now. Except for the SQUEEAAAAAAAAAKing.

[BIGKAT_83]

Belts that small are a problem to find in anything but a three rib. You need to make a tensioner. What I made was just a right and left hand thread set of hiem joints and a peace of tubing welded a nut on each end and then a jam nut worked great and looked good.
I've been looking for it and as soon as I find it I'll send it your way.


Hows it sound??

[Chris H.]

Thanks Bob that would be awesome! I think I might have found a 4 rib but that still might not fix the problem. I don't want it too tight or it will mess up the bearing.

It sounds REALLY good now that I took that dang belt off! REAALLLLLY good. Very 911ish but with less whoooshing because there isn't a cooling fan. At idle it's almost silent. I'll try to get a video together....