My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Yep, the barrel end fits my TB cam perfectly. DBW came in 2004, IIRC. Did you get a chance to see how much the brake MC hole needs to be enlarged for the 19mm MC? Stephan came up with 1/8" but I'd like to hear from you a Doug too. There is enough "meat" to go to 1 7/8" but I'd like to go to 1 3/4" if possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Oh you mean the piece that fell down into my old engine when I was taking it out and I've been meaning to fish out from under the engine tin? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You mean I might need that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

I haven't pulled the MC yet to measure but I'll try to do that this weekend. Still wondering whether I might switch back to a 17mm. I went with a cheap 19mm a few years back. I'll still measure for you either way.

Thanks Matt and Andrew for the responses as well! Matt, good point on the stud length. I might have to pull the ^(&#ing axle and remove the studs and put new ones in since I neglected to check the inner fender clearance before cutting the studs. So that's dumb move #.... emmmm...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) what number am I on Kent? It's way up there....

[76-914]

Yep, the barrel end fits my TB cam perfectly. DBW came in 2004, IIRC. Did you get a chance to see how much the brake MC hole needs to be enlarged for the 19mm MC? Stephan came up with 1/8" but I'd like to hear from you a Doug too. There is enough "meat" to go to 1 7/8" but I'd like to go to 1 3/4" if possible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Oh you mean the piece that fell down into my old engine when I was taking it out and I've been meaning to fish out from under the engine tin? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You mean I might need that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

I haven't pulled the MC yet to measure but I'll try to do that this weekend. Still wondering whether I might switch back to a 17mm. I went with a cheap 19mm a few years back. I'll still measure for you either way.

Thanks Matt and Andrew for the responses as well! Matt, good point on the stud length. I might have to pull the ^(&#ing axle and remove the studs and put new ones in since I neglected to check the inner fender clearance before cutting the studs. So that's dumb move #.... emmmm...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) what number am I on Kent? It's way up there....

Quit bragging. I'm at least 10 fuch ups ahead of you. I'll try to get a pic of the throttle cable tonite.

[Chris H.]

Still struggling with whether to run my coolant lines through the longs or under the car but I'm about 75% sure I'll use galvanized electrical conduit under the car in the recesses.

Question: Why do some of the conversions have different sized coolant lines? The line to the radiator is smaller than the return line? Is that necessary if I'm going under the car? I'll do it if it will help. I could do a 3/4 i/d to the rad and a 1" i/d return line or a 1" both ways as planned. Any thoughts on that?

[76-914]

I asked Bob the same question. I was told that the discharge side is always larger. Maybe because of the expansion. I think we shall find what does and does not work soon, as many of us that are doing this conversion. I hope the long route works. I like the clean look.

[Chris H.]

So yours are 3/4 and 7/8 Kent? That's the inner diameter?

[Phoenix-MN]

Still struggling with whether to run my coolant lines through the longs or under the car but I'm about 75% sure I'll use galvanized electrical conduit under the car in the recesses.

Question: Why do some of the conversions have different sized coolant lines? The line to the radiator is smaller than the return line? Is that necessary if I'm going under the car? I'll do it if it will help. I could do a 3/4 i/d to the rad and a 1" i/d return line or a 1" both ways as planned. Any thoughts on that?

I did mine sort like how the Pontiac Fiero is setup. In almost all cooling systems that I researched the lines are diffrerent sizes. Mine are 1" and 1 1/4" and I'm running a GM 3.8L V6 and so far has worked very well.

[Chris H.]

I know your build very well Paul! I almost posted your photo above as the poster child for great looking underbelly piping. Thank you for the feedback.

[rnellums]

Are you going to have to worry about galvanic corrosion of your engine/block with running galvanized lines?

[76-914]

Yes, mine are 3/4 & 7/8, as is Bob's. That's why I'm sure those sizes will work. I don't know if those sizes will handle all the bends I've introduced but it works on Bob's which is a more direct route. As I said earlier, I'll stick with those sizes but may have to reroute them like Bob's if they won't circulate properly in this configuration. Paul's post substantiates that as his are only one size larger and he is heating a GM 6. I think the Suby's require a bit less. Ross raises a valid question re: material choice. The engine, your radiator and the connectors you use are all on the noble end of the galvanic chart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) You could go with aluminum T-6061 tube which is very hard but not cost effective in this instance.

[Chris H.]

Maybe...

Here's what it says:

- Galvanized steel construction resists flattening, kinking and splitting
- Flo-Coat coating combines zinc, a conversion coat and a clear organic top-coat for protection against corrosion and abrasion

Would the fact that it has a protective coating help?

Is there an aluminum option that's easy to bend I wonder (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) ?

Maybe I re-look at through-the-longs...rather not do the radiator hose underneath...

If so I'd try to do the oil-line-routing style.

Similar to these setups I found in the archives:

[Chris H.]

The engine, your radiator and the connectors you use are all on the noble end of the galvanic chart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) You could go with aluminum T-6061 tube which is very hard but not cost effective in this instance.

Yikes, it looks like I'm gonna have to actually read up on this!

[rnellums]

Maybe you could get larger 1.25" steel tube and build a protective shroud that you could run the tubing through? I plan to go through the longs if I route up front myself.

[Chris H.]

Maybe you could get larger 1.25" steel tube and build a protective shroud that you could run the tubing through? I plan to go through the longs if I route up front myself.

Yeah I was just looking at that too. It's actually 70 degrees so I might just go out there and poke around later. Need to de-clutter it and get to work!

BTW ordered my TerryCable throttle cable. 18" longer than stock. The throttle body on this thing is much farther away than the stock engine so I went with Andrew's advice. They're just going to throw in a handful of cable stops for me to try. Really nice people.

[ruby914]

Chris,
Where did you find this photo? It's from Kent's thread. Is it where you got your CVs from?
I am looking for just the front inboard CVs and boots for an 02 WRX. Having a hard time finding them with out the complete axle setup.
Thinking about the pick a part but not sure if most pre 02 will fit and I think I would stay cleaner if I get them on line.

Hey Kent, I see you peeping on Chris's thread. We need updates from you too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

Hi Mike,

I found that picture on the net. Didn't buy that setup I was just showing Kent the retaining ring so he didn't bend the crap out of it like I did someone I know did. I bought entire front axles used off of NASIOC and harvested the inner CVs. I heard not to go with new aftermarket or remanufactured. They aren't as good. Used OEM are fine and don't fail very often. Looks like the prices have gone up a bit...I paid ~ $50 for my set. You want to look for "female" CV's, the OEM are usually painted green. I don't know how far before 2002 you can go before the spline count changes, but if you post WTB on NASIOC you should get some hits and be able to find 2002 axles...I see some in the classifieds over there. A pick n pull would be fine too. Again, just make sure to get OEM. Don't pay too much. There's a set for $250 on NASIOC..that's WAAAYYY too much!

[76-914]

Mike, try ebay. I found one there. Is yours 29 tooth? I have an extra your welcome to but it is the older style. I've been too busy with work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) / (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) to work on the car.

[914forme]

Who's 914 is the blue car in the pictures above? That is an insanely clean install, I would like to check it out.

[rnellums]

I bought entire front axles used off of NASIOC and harvested the inner CVs. I heard not to go with new aftermarket or remanufactured. They aren't as good. Used OEM are fine and don't fail very often. Looks like the prices have gone up a bit...I paid ~ $50 for my set. You want to look for "female" CV's, the OEM are usually painted green.

So the general consensus is that the CVs on rock auto are garbage?

[Chris H.]

Well, all I know is a lot of the guys on NASIOC say so. I think Bob (BIGKAT_83) told me the OEM used ones were the best bet as well. And Chris (my928S4) ordered a set of EMPIs and the spline count was wrong so they didn't fit. That SHOULD NOT happen since you order each set specific to the year of the trans and I'm sure he knew what year his trans was.

Stephen, the blue car is known as "Papa Smurf". It's owned by member naro914. You'll enjoy learning the details. It's a nasty little beast with quite a racing history.

HANG ON!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VmxplmLGKs

[Chris H.]

OK so back to the coolant lines thing. If I run them through the longs and then keep them low and run them like oil cooler lines...what about heat in the interior? Should we be worried about that? Seems like 180 degrees or so would make it pretty warm where the hoses come out of the longs...mine would be right by my feet without a lot of room to put insulation. Could probably encase it in a tube of some kind....guess I better look at it closer.

My flapper boxes were stuck JUST SLIGHTLY open for two summers and that was pretty irritating.