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> My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff
charliew
post Jan 8 2013, 08:26 PM
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Nice thread, I have great respect for guys that take the time to take pictures and do the write ups under them. I don't have that skill yet. I can barely send pictures in a email.

Most of the connectors I have removed wires from were done with a very small allen wrench. It's flat on the end but still worked great for me or the little flat blade micro screwdrivers that you get in little sets from hf.

I bought more than one suby motor just to get the fasteners so keep all the boltsand clips/fasteners that you can remove. I also have lots of vw bolts but very seldom are the threads the same pitch.
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cwpeden
post Jan 8 2013, 10:46 PM
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Great White North, huh?
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Had an offer to co-buy an SVX today. An aquaintance has a 240 and wants the rear end of the SVX. That may a market for your rearend if you dont have a buyer.

He and I are both autocrossers and i was telling him about my suby plans. They dont include SVX.
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Chris H.
post Jan 8 2013, 11:11 PM
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Thanks Charlie. Been coming here 10 years so it's about time I did something constructive! Figure I've saved $5k or so by fixing everything myself using the search function here and advice from members.

Conrad, thanks for the info. Would never have guessed you could use an SVX rear end for a 240 (Z I assume). Probably a good match, and if you blow it up just buy another one for cheap.

One thing I learned from BIGKAT_83 is that the seals for the SVX engines are not too cheap...so even though the car was like $500, I'll need about $500 in seals as well. Might want to check that when shopping around... That's OK...have to do the timing belt anyway so why not do it all at once. I'll just pretend its a 911 engine for a while... $500 is a GREAT deal then.

Should get some parts this week but first I will throw the engine on a stand and change the seals. Looks pretty easy but I'll post some pics anyway.
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a914622
post Jan 8 2013, 11:47 PM
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Subaru parts . com is the best pricing you will find on your seal kit. If i remember it was 260.00 for the complete kit. It comes with every thing. It is an internet only site run out of a subaru dealer in Tacoma. Super good peaple to work with. I would only use a subaru timing belt!

Head bolts are reusable no need for new ones. ACL racing bearings for the 2.2 fit but you have to buy 2 sets to get a 6 back together. No kit for svx. Hoses should be converted to silicon if possible.

the engine under the wire harness pic was just rebuilt. Amazing motors! I have an extra one that i may have to add boost, lots of boost. Have 2 engine cradles , street and STI killer. Hummm..

PM me if you want detailed pics of the harness cut down. I can probably save you a week of BS.

jcl
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Chris H.
post Jan 9 2013, 07:16 AM
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Thanks jcl! Wow that is very helpful.
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BIGKAT_83
post Jan 9 2013, 04:29 PM
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Chris here is a picture of my fuel tank with the intank pump.
You can see the AC evaporater behind the tank fits like a glove. Im working on venting this to the dash vents.
Attached Image

Bob
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Chris H.
post Jan 9 2013, 09:08 PM
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Very nice Bob! Thanks! I finally got the fuel pump out of the tank and got the gas drained. Tomorrow I'll be calling the tow truck!

BTW I also see your slave cylinder reservoir for the hydraulic clutch. Looks great.
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Tilly74
post Jan 10 2013, 10:23 AM
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QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Jan 9 2013, 04:29 PM) *

Chris here is a picture of my fuel tank with the intank pump.
You can see the AC evaporater behind the tank fits like a glove. Im working on venting this to the dash vents.
Attached Image

Bob


Sorry to "hijack" but is there any more information about this AC evaporator setup? I've searched everywhere for more info on installing an evaporator where the fresh air box is and can't find much of anything. What brand/model is that evaporator? This is exactly what I want to do with my car eventually.
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Chris H.
post Jan 10 2013, 03:16 PM
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QUOTE(Tilly74 @ Jan 10 2013, 10:23 AM) *

QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Jan 9 2013, 04:29 PM) *

Chris here is a picture of my fuel tank with the intank pump.
You can see the AC evaporater behind the tank fits like a glove. Im working on venting this to the dash vents.
Attached Image

Bob


Sorry to "hijack" but is there any more information about this AC evaporator setup? I've searched everywhere for more info on installing an evaporator where the fresh air box is and can't find much of anything. What brand/model is that evaporator? This is exactly what I want to do with my car eventually.


Let's transfer you here:

BIGKAT Thread

Post 53. Bob has 2 subie threads...both very helpful.

And now, a moment of silence...

Attached Image




OK let's get on with the show! Engine seals ordered....
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Chris H.
post Jan 23 2013, 06:44 AM
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Just some minor updates...the exciting stuff will start next week.

Separating the SVX engine from the trans is not quite as easy as expected. Since it is automatic you have to unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter. If you don't you can tug all day and it's not going to budge. Ask me how I know... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Attached Image

Under the intake on the snorkel end (rear) you will find a plug just to the passenger side. Take that off and there is a hole that will allow access to the 12mm bolts one at a time. Rotate the engine CLOCKWISE ONLY using a 21mm socket on the crank pulley until all 4 are removed.

Attached Image

The engine and trans won't usually just come loose like a 914's will. Seems like the lower bolts are pointed slightly outward or something because they are TIGHTLY mated. What you have to do is start prying them apart with something slim like a putty knife and gradually and very carefully move up to wider prying tools. At some point it gives up.

Attached Image

Make sure you have something like a furniture dolly positioned under the trans. It's one heavy SOB. Not something you can normally just lift.

Attached Image

On the stand...this is the part where I usually say "I WIN!" and point at the object I have been wrestling with...crazy but at least I feel better. That sucker is also very heavy compared to a type 4. Might want to remove some of the accessories before you hoist it up there.
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Chris H.
post Jan 23 2013, 06:44 AM
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So the angle of the intake has gotten my attention. Bob and I spoke of flipping it which can be done but might require rearranging of the alternator.

Attached Image

When you look at it from the top it looks like it will clear since the angle is so steep....

Attached Image

But under the intake snorkels is this little guy which will probably make it harder. I suppose a spacer could work...we'll see. Otherwise the alternator could be moved...
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Chris H.
post Jan 23 2013, 06:54 AM
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Here's a better shot of the angle...

Attached Image

And the front again...

Attached Image
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76-914
post Jan 23 2013, 08:11 AM
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Chris, what is the issue with the TB and Alt? I didn't understand what you are showing under the intake snorkels, either. Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Chris H.
post Jan 23 2013, 10:27 AM
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Sorry what I was saying is that it appears that I could flip the intake around so it faces the front of the engine, thereby eliminating the need to cut into the rear trunk (or at least lessen the cutting). The angle upwards makes it look like you could just flip it, but right under the air intake holes (snorkel) which are taped off now there is some sort of module (don't know what it is yet) that will probably be in the way. Might have to move the alternator to the end where the power steering pump resides now. I want to retain the A/C as well.
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scotty b
post Jan 23 2013, 04:51 PM
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rust free you say ?
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If you flip it, will you still have enough room to put whatever filter system you plan to use without hitting the firewall ?
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wingnut86
post Jan 23 2013, 09:12 PM
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...boola la boo boola boo...
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94' had an EGR valve in the location under the intake.

What year is it again?
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Chris H.
post Jan 25 2013, 10:10 AM
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Sorry guys I was out for a couple of days...

wingnut - It's a 95....could be the EGR...

Scotty - That's a very good question...I think it will fit but we'll find out very soon. The stock breather box adds a couple of inches to the end of the intake and then exits to the left passenger side like this:

Attached Image

Sorry for the grainy photo. Let me know if you need any measurements when you start your install. I'll keep you posted.
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BIGKAT_83
post Jan 25 2013, 11:36 AM
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Its the Idle Air Control valve.... You need this if your running the stock ECU.

Bob
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Chris H.
post Jan 25 2013, 12:31 PM
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Well there you go...that thing is not going anywhere! In my mind it seems like the alternator should move to where the power steering pump is so that the stock serpentine belt could be used and it's more balanced. Just need to fab a strong bracket.
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76-914
post Jan 25 2013, 01:59 PM
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Just stay 3 month's ahead of me so I don't have to do any thinking, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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