My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[veekry9]

Intake Manifold build for EG3.3

http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/175-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/174-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/173-1.html
A composite Subaru intake manifold for a custom that worked,a thing of beauty.
Requires some fab skill in the medium,he used a hi-temp epoxy/s-glass layup on a foam core.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=subaru+perfo...RBqCtgQ_AUIBigB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw
another material.

[76-914]

Intake Manifold build for EG3.3

http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/175-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/174-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/173-1.html

A composite Subaru intake manifold for a custom that worked,a thing of beauty.
Requires some fab skill in the medium,he used a hi-temp epoxy/s-glass layup on a foam core.

http://www.ch601.org/resources/subaru_faq.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw
another material.

Uh, that's a 2.2, not a 3.3. I spent 20 yr's in the Homebuilt Aircraft Industry and never saw an auto conversion that merits the work required. An exercise in WTF! An adequate analogy would be, "Would you put an A/C engine in a car and why?"

[Chris H.]

Changed my fans out today...you can buy the Celica GTS radiator on e-bay with or without the 12" fans. Trust me, they are worth the extra $86.

I started with a set of 10" fans because I had them, made a shroud out of metal that I had...just wasn't pulling enough.



Then I tried adapting the SVX fans, which seem very sturdy and fit perfectly onto the radiator. The problem there was that the air flowed down and to the sides rather than straight through the fans.



Here are the correct, 12" slim fans (they come in black too)



Here they are running. Great flow. So much better than the 10". Note the carpet flapping in the breeze.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzsG92HWl0g


BTW don't worry about the rattling sound. The shroud was loose since the top was off and vibrating against something.

[Chris H.]

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:



No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:



It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.



Easy instructions:



I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

[904svo]

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:



No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:



It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.



Easy instructions:



I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

FWIW, Subaru uses the power steering oil pump switch to control the fan speed.

[Chris H.]

That's very strange. Probably part of the problem since I'm not running a power steering pump and had removed that circuit from the harness.

[76-914]

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:



No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:



It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.



Easy instructions:



I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

FWIW, Subaru uses the power steering oil pump switch to control the fan speed.

And since none of us have pwr steering, you can take that lead to ground for a 50rpm boost in idle.Chris, your fans sound serious. Driving time is very near. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Chris H.]

Hey Kent! Yeah I already grounded the PS wire which you figured out last year for me. You just reminded me I need to reconnect it! In addition to the idle increase it also provides a constant "load" to the system which is important for the SVX ECU. I was very tempted to drive it around but it's better if I work through the issues first. The hole up front is too small so it won't cool enough. No reason to subject it to overheating. The shifter cables are also slightly melted, which I need to replace. I have new ones.

Next up:

- Get the valance fitted and cut the front trunk hole bigger. Probably also have to adjust the shroud angle on the sides since the hole will be a little wider.
- Need to get to Bob's to pick up my second trans and some other stuff. My trans has a whine which may or may not be fixable. Bob says no, so it's 99.9% no. Probably work for a while, but not indefinitely. Regardless, I want the trans he has at his place and to see his newest project. It will be warm enough to take pics this time!
- Fix minor oil leak at the oil pump. For you EG33 guys, the oil pump must be re-sealed using a bead of RTV...I had the whole damn engine apart and did the timing belt and water pump but didn't re-seal that SOB. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
- Swap out my cables, try a new shifter position/option
- Flip the intake if I can make it work.
- Install my louvered floor pan

Lots to do, but I also want to start enjoying it, so the priority is getting it driveable for long distances.

[76-914]

Much to do in one respect; very little in a other. I'll bet your done within 30 days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[904svo]

Here the circuit I used.


This circuit can control other power circuits only when the engine is running.

[Chris H.]

Very interesting stuff! Any thoughts on how to solve the dreaded SVX stall issue that is (allegedly, according to the SVX guys) caused by the fact that all SVX's are automatics and the ECU expects a load of some kind at all times? I've had it happen. Engine idled perfectly in the SVX. Now it will sometimes stall when you put the clutch in, especially when coming from high rpms. Seems to happen after warmup. When cold it's fine. Even with the power steering pump wire grounded it wasn't 100% cured. I know smallcar had a chip you can install for ~$260, but it's not on their website any more.

[904svo]

Very interesting stuff! Any thoughts on how to solve the dreaded SVX stall issue that is (allegedly, according to the SVX guys) caused by the fact that all SVX's are automatics and the ECU expects a load of some kind at all times? I've had it happen. Engine idled perfectly in the SVX. Now it will sometimes stall when you put the clutch in, especially when coming from high rpms. Seems to happen after warmup. When cold it's fine. Even with the power steering pump wire grounded it wasn't 100% cured. I know smallcar had a chip you can install for ~$260, but it's not on their website any more.

Two things that I know of that cause the problem ,the brake switch and the clutch
switch must be hook up, and the ECU must have the AUTO lead to the ECU grounded

Most importation thing is the VSS must be wire to the ECU.

[Chris H.]

Thank you! The brake switch and clutch switch would be hooked up to...? The brake light circuit for the brake I assume? Clutch would be what? And both are powered +?

[904svo]

Thank you! The brake switch and clutch switch would be hooked up to...? The brake light circuit for the brake I assume? Clutch would be what? And both are powered +?

With out the wiring diagram I'm not sure where the clutch switch would be connected.
The brake switch would be wired normally, the VSS signal must goto the ECU.

If you are using a Auto ECU I would guess the clutch switch would be wired to
the TCM lead to the ECU.

The ECU must get all the signals from the TCM to operate propely, these signals
can come from another source (fake) to make the ECM think it coming from the
TCM

[Chris H.]

OK thanks. The VSS is definitely connected so that's good. I doubt the Auto wire is grounded. I'll start with that and see what happens. I'll dig up the wiring diagrams too. Thanks for the help! So just to confirm, I just need to connect the brake wire into the brake circuit somewhere?

Edit: BTW I still have the TCM...but would think that might complicate things to hook it back up...maybe not? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Chris H.]

Dug up one of the ECU pinouts I used (Found on an SVX site). The ECU does not have a clutch or brake switch wire, those are on the TCM. I do see a few wires that might be helpful in evening out the idle issue

- Pin 16 in the top plug labeled B59 is called "atmospheric pressure sensor / A/T control unit" No voltage required, I may ground it and see what happens.
- Pin 20 in the top plug..."torque control signal"...how about that one? requires 5 volts to "trick" it.
- Pin 11 on B60 - speed sensor 2 - should I connect this to the VSS on my trans? I don't have it connected currently. Thought I did.

[904svo]

Dug up one of the ECU pinouts I used (Found on an SVX site). The ECU does not have a clutch or brake switch wire, those are on the TCM. I do see a few wires that might be helpful in evening out the idle issue

- Pin 16 in the top plug labeled B59 is called "atmospheric pressure sensor / A/T control unit" No voltage required, I may ground it and see what happens.
- Pin 20 in the top plug..."torque control signal"...how about that one? requires 5 volts to "trick" it.
- Pin 11 on B60 - speed sensor 2 - should I connect this to the VSS on my trans? I don't have it connected currently. Thought I did.

From what I read on SVX sites the VSS has to be connected up.
The brake an clutch switchs are used to control cruise control.

[Chris H.]

Few updates you might be interested in.

First is the trans whine "issue", which was not an issue at all, just a misunderstanding in the directions when installing the locking spool. The instructions were to remove the thinner of the two washers from the original assembly when installing it. That is ONLY IF you have two small diameter washers at the END of the assembly. There is a larger diameter washer that goes in BEFORE the spool. DO NOT REMOVE THAT ONE!!! It will seem like the right thing to do, but it's not. You won't be able to get the nut tight enough and gears 3-5 will be slightly mis-aligned and whine. I only drove it about 10 miles that way, so no harm done. Apparently there are Subie guys who tolerate this kind of whine for thousands of miles. Once I reinstalled the washer it was totally quiet. The trans only has 64k on it, and there were no signs of wear at all.

More info here:

Guy whining about trans whine

Once I fixed the trans, the drive train immediately started eating 914 CV joints. The Subaru end also slipped out once. Turned out to be worn out CVs.

See more on that here:

New CV setup

Like a lot of the Subaru converts I used the MR2 shifter. I positioned it close to the stock setup, but the shift lever is a little too short. Didn't want to extend it too much since the short throw is nice. After trying several shift knobs and I heard that the stock MR2 knob is one of the best to use. Unfortunately when you screw that one on the shaft is WAY too short. Ordered this stainless steel extender:

MR2 Shifter Extension

Just need an MR2 shift knob. Got mine from MR2Parts4U on e-bay. There are a couple of nice ones on there from other sellers too.

MR2knob

Here's how it looks before assembly...WAY too long right?



No!



Here it is installed:





You grab the shift knob sideways instead of on top so the throw wasn't extended much.

Couple of things I learned:

- Avoid aluminum extensions. They will eventually break.
- If you buy one with a hex nut on it, make sure it's removable like this one is.

Need to work on the interior soon! Probably grab an MR2 boot and build a cover around it for the shifter and center area.

The other thing I did was properly connect the alternator directly to the battery. It's a common SVX upgrade, so I followed the process on the Subaru-SVX site.

Used 4 gauge wire and installed a 100 amp slow blow fuse just in case...







Here it is installed...bolts to the old FI box holes...



The SVX battery also has 2 ground points, one chassis ground and one engine ground. I re did those with 4 gauge wire too. Here you can see the upper wire from the alternator to the battery, and the lower engine ground wire.



It's running well, staying at or below 185 degrees now. Next up is to connect the VSS, flip the intake, and make it look prettier.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) 6 mo's between updates? Are you sneaking into the "Build off" threads? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I need to connect my VSS to the ECU as well. Scares the shit out of me every time the ECU looks for that signal. For those of you that are converting to Suby and using the OEM ECU; if you don't connect that circuit the car will cut off for 2-3 seconds after driving at a constant speed for extended periods of time. As long as your throttle position changes e.g. town driving, it never occurs.
Good to see you posting again! Did you decide what to do for the floating 1/2 shafts and CV's. Was "the floating" shaft the culprit? Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ThePaintedMan]

Very nice Chris! Hate to add some doubt, but I'm in the process of flipping the intake on my engine stand. Unfortunately, there is a possibility some of those new wires may not work, depending on where you put the alternator when you flip it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I'll get around to posting pictures of how I flipped it soon. There is a lot more work than it initially looks like.