My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[scotty b]

Sorry for the highjack, but it is somewhat related. Do you guys think a GT front valance, with a coulpe of moderate sized cutouts on the front panel ( I'm thinking about cutting the three center factory holes to one large oval hole, and two additional cutouts on either side of the trunk latch ) combined with a puller fan and shroud like Ruby914 made, would cool well enough in the worst of conditions ( idling in town in 95* temps )? My intent is to make this as stock looking as possible. Kind of like Porsche " could have done "

We really need a Sooby forum here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[DBCooper]

That's what BIGKAT did (with just the GT opening), and it apparently worked well:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-194-1340590465.jpg)

My radiator opening is just a few square inches larger than what I measure the GT opening to be:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i255.photobucket.com-2618-1269561145.1.jpg)

I only have a 2.0 liter turbo in mine, with the Renegade radiator, and it's never been hot in summertime south Texas or the California desert. The fans have come on when I've been thrashing it and then pull into stop and go traffic, but the needle's never moved. Air for both the radiator and intercooler go through that opening.

That radiator opening was cut into a painted bumper to test the size hole I'd need. I cut it small and was going to keep opening it up till it was large enough to cool well, but that's still the original "small" hole because I never had to enlarge it. I just bought a narrow body GT valance and now I'll cut the chrome bumper to match the GT valance, knowing that opening will be large enough. I believe BIGKAT had a big 3.3 liter six in his, so should work for that motor as well. I don't know this for a fact and it seems counter-intuitive, but I think radiator capacity and the air exits from the trunk are more critical than the size of the inlet.

We really need a Sooby forum here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Yup, sure do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) I always feel like I'm offending purists. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

.

[Chris H.]

BIGKAT and I were talking radiators last week. Since the stock rad in my car is new I am thinking of doing it PJHAUN style (Brad Mayeur did it as well in his V8 car). In through the front, out the bottom of the car. The stock rad is pretty big, really too big for most temps in this setup. Just hate cutting the fender wells. If I had the skills I would do what Ruby did and then I could live with the cutting.

The inlet only needs to be 1/2 the size of the outlet(s) so your plan should work Scotty. Check out SpeedMetalArmy's. He just has a few holes in the bumper for his LS1.

Hijack any time guys. Seriously...I learn more from every one of them.

[scotty b]

The wheel well cutting is definitely an area to be concerned about. One thing I plan to do that I have yet to see someone do, is cut a clean hole the same size as the duct running to it, then reinforce the perimiter by welding on a piece of 1" wide 16 gauge. I have also considerd cutting the hole, then making a patch panel to fit back in that had been punched with louvers, giving a nice finished look instead of a big hole, but I'm worried the louvers would block/disrupt the flow to much to be effective (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[DBCooper]

Give it a go. I think that area works because it's low pressure, and if that's so it should suck hot air out through louvers, lots of small holes (like mine), or one big one.

My outlet, done with a template (so both sides are identical) and a hole saw, so it still retains some strength. I don't drive it in the rain (California) so it works for me.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i379.photobucket.com-2618-1359240141.1.jpg)

[Dr Evil]

I would like to make a two radiator system like the 911s. If there was a way to intake behind the doors and exhaust some place aft of that in a way that keeps the looks and functionality, then I would be all over that.

[Mike Bellis]

I would like to make a two radiator system like the 911s. If there was a way to intake behind the doors and exhaust some place aft of that in a way that keeps the looks and functionality, then I would be all over that.

Porsche uses both a 2 and 3 radiator setup but it's not in the engine compartment. it's in the front bumper and exits air into the fender wells. Not unlike a water cooled 914.

[a914622]

Yes the intake can be flipped around, but the injector wiring needs to stay the same. Thats what im working on now. I think a thin toyota or mazda alt will do the trick in place of the power steering pump. Still working on it. The coolant hoses to the throtle body need to be in place for proper cold start.


I am going to try to use the stock intake hoses out to the air sensor. I have seen the 2.2 of the same year react to the shortening the intakes on the vanagons. But i was just reading about the hack for the ecus so injector timing could be shortened if needed.


Iv eyeballed the 2 radiator idea but with out hacking up the front body lines i cant see it. FYI the audi 4000 radiator fits almost perfect in the front.


jcl

[Chris H.]

Thanks for the insight jcl... the alternator setup is going to be key...

Hey carrying over my hijack of strawman's thread (sorry man) ... been looking at stock Subie gauge clusters... does anyone know if the tach needs calibration like a 914's? How about compatibility?

The reason I ask is that the bone yards and e-bay show compatibility with either 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder cars. Example:

Legacy Cluster

Note how it says either 2.5L or 3.0L...Could be a mistake...

my ideal setup would be something like this:

2004 WRX

Or this:

05 STI

Just not sure if it would be possible without more $$$$ than the Speedhut setup.

Any insight would be appreciated.

[76-914]

Hey Chris, what's that cluster from the SVX look like. Any possibility of grafting that one in?

[Chris H.]

SVX's are all automatics...the cluster is a little large and squareish..

Here it is:




I don't mind the gauges themselves too much but no need for the other stuff and the PRND321. Maybe I could Frankenstein these into a new cluster...I thought about transplanting the guts into the VDO's but they don't line up at all...

[strawman]

... been looking at stock Subie gauge clusters... does anyone know if the tach needs calibration like a 914's? How about compatibility?

IMHO, the easiest solution is to match the cluster's native number of cylinders with the sixer in your car. But I'm sure there's a way to use resistors, amps or clamps (or some other techie solution!) in-line between the ECU and Suby cluster if you choose to go with a WRX cluster. All of the Legacy gauges I looked at were too wide for my liking, but if you're gonna hack up the 914 dash anyway (like I did!), I guess it really doesn't matter.

904svo (Larry) is an electrical whiz and REALLY helped me build a converter to use the 914 tach. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I've still got the converter (see below) and could pass-it-forward if you can use it, though you'd need to convert it to work with the six-cylinder signal. PM me if you're interested (and be sure to thank Larry!).



You'd still be challenged with the speedo, since the Suby uses a VSS signal versus the cable-driven 914 speedo. I looked at using a VSS-based 911 speedo, but my cheap-ass couldn't stomach paying ~$100 for a questionable used one and prolly need to send it in for a $350 rebuild... most of the cheap ones are 85mph, too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

Keep up the great work!

Geoff

[904svo]

... been looking at stock Subie gauge clusters... does anyone know if the tach needs calibration like a 914's? How about compatibility?

IMHO, the easiest solution is to match the cluster's native number of cylinders with the sixer in your car. But I'm sure there's a way to use resistors, amps or clamps (or some other techie solution!) in-line between the ECU and Suby cluster if you choose to go with a WRX cluster. All of the Legacy gauges I looked at were too wide for my liking, but if you're gonna hack up the 914 dash anyway (like I did!), I guess it really doesn't matter.

904svo (Larry) is an electrical whiz and REALLY helped me build a converter to use the 914 tach. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I've still got the converter (see below) and could pass-it-forward if you can use it, though you'd need to convert it to work with the six-cylinder signal. PM me if you're interested (and be sure to thank Larry!).



You'd still be challenged with the speedo, since the Suby uses a VSS signal versus the cable-driven 914 speedo. I looked at using a VSS-based 911 speedo, but my cheap-ass couldn't stomach paying ~$100 for a questionable used one and prolly need to send it in for a $350 rebuild... most of the cheap ones are 85mph, too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

Keep up the great work!

Geoff

That tach adapter will drive a 911 tach off a 6 cylinder engine also.
The trouble with using the Subaru Speedo is that it will only read the correct speed if you use the same tire size as the Subaru, also there is no way to fix it as it control by the speedo chip in the gauge panel.

[Chris H.]

Thanks guys.... Geoff if I end up using the stock tach I will definitely let you know. Appreciate the offer. Larry, thanks for the info on the speedo... the stock wheel size for the SVX is 205/55/16. Have to check that against our wheel calculator.

[strawman]

The trouble with using the Subaru Speedo is that it will only read the correct speed if you use the same tire size as the Subaru, also there is no way to fix it as it control by the speedo chip in the gauge panel.

Guys on NASOIC have had success with the SpeedoHealer. Cost is about $120, but it can be used with any VSS-equipped motorcycle or automobile. I was planning on using one of these...

[DBCooper]

There's an aftermarket VDO electrical speedometer that works with the Subaru sender. it has an LCD odometer, but the size, color, bezel and fonts match the original 914 style. It was about $100. I have a photo somewhere if any interest.

[Chris H.]

Is it this one?



Certainly a good option. Fits right in the slot... says it has "auto-calibration" so that must make it compatible with multiple senders.

I might be heading back to the SpeedHut setup....a little pricey but all the gauges I want.

[DBCooper]

Yup, that's it. Found a photo:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i379.photobucket.com-2618-1359386016.1.jpg)

Fully programmable so you can change tire height and correct the speedo. The tach is also VDO, with a programmable shift light (that LED just above the VDO logo). The shift light looks small but it's pretty bright, without looking like a drag racer. And it goes up to 9K, appropriate for a Subaru engine that spins higher than a T4. It was about $100 from e-bay new in the box. The fonts and style are the same so it leaves the dash looking "in the style of" the original, but with modern instruments. The tach and speedo needles have absolutely no bounce, are perfectly steady. They work well and are simple to install. Important to note that I use an aftermarket EMS, so no need to retain any Subaru compatibility for ECU function.

They're great, the only real problem is lighting at night, they're all a little different. I still haven't changed the bulbs in all so they match. That photo makes the needle colors look different, which is odd, but in real life I can't tell the difference.
.

[904svo]

It's answer like these that take the scare out of doing a transplant!!

[Chris H.]

Wow, it's been a long time since update! Sorry about that.

Spent the last several weeks doing cleanup and re-seal of the engine, timing belt, getting rid of various SVX parts, collecting parts, and just finished converting the 2006 WRX trans to 2wd and installing the stub axles. Not very exciting visually but I'll throw a few pics up anyway.

The engine was extremely dirty and grimy. The oil that eventually leaked out of the seals turned to tar over time and it took several days to get it all off.

Before:





After:




High pressure car wash would have been great, but unfortunately I don’t know these engines well enough to know what to spray and what not to so it was the old slow method of smear and wipe. Tried several different products including brake cleaner, Goo Gone, Simple Green, but the best results came from Goop. A big tub can be had for about $8 at Harbor Freight.



Put it on, it turns from white to clear, wipe/rinse it with warm water. Repeat, repeat.

Bought the full engine reseal kit from Subaruparts.com.



It has some seals you won’t need but pricing the stuff piece by piece it’s still a good deal. Not doing the head gaskets at this point but have them for later. It’s amazing how unfamiliar the seals look.



If these were 914 seals it would be easier to tell what the heck they all are. Just compare the old ones with the new ones. Should be an exact fit.