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> My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff
mgp4591
post May 30 2016, 08:13 PM
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A 3.3 can be modified without much cash really - the Z32 throttle body from a Nissan Z and the 370 cc injectors with a chip should get you over 300hp. You'd want to team that up with a free breathing intake and exhaust system to fully realize that but the 3.3 is a very restricted engine from the factory by their own admission. A tweak here, a tweak there and you'll have plenty of power. Not Tony power of course but much better than stock!
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mgp4591
post May 30 2016, 08:17 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ May 30 2016, 02:24 PM) *

Ha ha. I was just thinking to myself that he addressed that. Looking for more from you! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

So, with the valve disabled and fixed in position, would this would get by the issue people are running into when they turbocharge?
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flmont
post May 30 2016, 08:21 PM
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Yea,..I didnt know it could get to 300,...any piston work needed,..?? what do u think a 3.6 can do on a Extreme link ECU,...???
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mgp4591
post May 30 2016, 08:34 PM
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QUOTE(flmont @ May 30 2016, 08:21 PM) *

Yea,..I didnt know it could get to 300,...any piston work needed,..?? what do u think a 3.6 can do on a Extreme link ECU,...???

It's overbuilt and will easily stand that type of stress - there's folks who've put 10lbs of boost on a stock engine and run it 200k miles. Pretty much bulletproof especially when naturally aspirated.
Like you were saying, it could cost a bunch to install a 3.6. The 3.0 six is the engine a lot here have gone with because of the lighter weight and smaller size. Not too expensive but more so than the 3.3.
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flmont
post May 30 2016, 09:38 PM
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I have indeed been thinking of going EG33,...and dumping the 3.6,..??,...sorry Chris H,..for hi-jacking...FM
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Chris H.
post May 31 2016, 07:50 AM
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I think you'd find the sound to be pretty comparable. Mine sounds a lot like the EZ30. Depends quite a bit on the exhaust you use. Why would the EZ36 cost so much more to get running? $4500?
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flmont
post May 31 2016, 08:04 AM
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Well I need the ecu,..and adapter kit ,.plus,...misc..items exhaust ,fuel pump..etc...
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DBCooper
post May 31 2016, 11:19 AM
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QUOTE(flmont @ May 31 2016, 07:04 AM) *

Well I need the ecu,..and adapter kit ,.plus,...misc..items exhaust ,fuel pump..etc...

Don't you need all those same things no matter which engine you choose?


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Chris H.
post May 31 2016, 01:33 PM
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QUOTE(DBCooper @ May 31 2016, 12:19 PM) *

QUOTE(flmont @ May 31 2016, 07:04 AM) *

Well I need the ecu,..and adapter kit ,.plus,...misc..items exhaust ,fuel pump..etc...

Don't you need all those same things no matter which engine you choose?


That's what I was thinking...

The 3.6 is a solid engine Frank. There are a few differences...it has advancements like variable valve timing, drive by wire, etc. Why not run what you got? I would run the hell out of that thing. It's an oversized EZ30. There's a guy with a 911 on NASIOC working on a 3.6 conversion running Megasquirt 3.

911 EZ36

Do you have the wiring harness? Start a thread with what you have and get some comments. Lot of experienced guys here who can help.
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mepstein
post May 31 2016, 01:52 PM
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QUOTE(mgp4591 @ May 30 2016, 10:13 PM) *

A 3.3 can be modified without much cash really - the Z32 throttle body from a Nissan Z and the 370 cc injectors with a chip should get you over 300hp. You'd want to team that up with a free breathing intake and exhaust system to fully realize that but the 3.3 is a very restricted engine from the factory by their own admission. A tweak here, a tweak there and you'll have plenty of power. Not Tony power of course but much better than stock!

Once I get mine running I'd like to get a second engine to do the mods and see 300hp. With flares, suby trans and 911 running gear it should have no problem keeping it all together.
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flmont
post May 31 2016, 06:19 PM
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Yes,..DB...I do,..But the 3.6 is also so new right now now much is being done with it ,.and, its just cheaper to do SVX stuff and get on the road much sooner ,..its a tried and true set-up from what I see,..and there is just more support for SVX..so it seems,..??
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Chris H.
post Jun 2 2016, 09:45 PM
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Here's a few updates...fuel injectors checked out fine and will be back tomorrow.

Some modifications I did to simplify things:

First I eliminated some coolant lines. There is a set of lines that run to the heater core on the SVX which I ran a loop of 5/8 " hose as a temp solution initially but realized I just don't need it. If/when I install a heater I'll pipe it from up front rather than running lines all the way up from the engine. I also eliminated the smaller lines that pass through the throttle body. These heat up the throttle body to help the engine run better out of the gate when it's cold, but I don't think it's necessary since I won't be driving my car during the winter and I'm flipping the intake anyway. MANY SVX guys disconnect and do a pass-through on this line because they don't like the fact that it keeps the throttle body hot all the time. They also claim small hp gains (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) . It's just cleaner for me. You can see the lines arrowed here, plus there is another one coming out of the silver crossover pipe on the other side.

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The one on the driver's side runs all the way down to the water pump so it really freed up some space when I took it out. I don't have a good picture of the one connected to the crossover pipe on the passenger side, but here it is cut down to the nub.

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This is where it gets a little JB Weld crazy...I filled the "nub"with a special JB Marine Weld that has the properties of JB Weld but also can be submerged in water/mildly corrosive liquids indefinitely. It's hard as a rock now and about an inch thick. Not going anywhere. I also filled the smaller port that connected to the throttle body. (The nub is not fully installed yet. I have to paint some stuff.)

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But did I stop there? Nooooo....I have eliminated my EGR system, but never cut these suckers off...they are in the way.

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So...I cut them off, taped the underside and...you guessed it...JB Weld!!! If you do this make sure to leave little extra on top and grind it off later. It will settle a bit as it dries over several hours or a day. Then shine a flashlight through to make sure you filled it completely. The holes at the TB underside are VERY small.

Glop on top:

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30 seconds with the sandpaper dremel attachment

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And since I eliminated the throttle body coolant line...why not cut these off and save some room since the manifold flip jams a bunch of stuff together?

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Now what could I stuff in the empty hole... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) ...is there some kind of JB Weld putty? YES.

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Next I have to slightly reposition my intake valve so I can complete the manifold flip, install the injectors, and get this thing ready to reinstall. I think the alternator positioning is going to cause me problems. We'll see.
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ThePaintedMan
post Jun 2 2016, 10:06 PM
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Really nice job Chris. You'll also notice two other things -

1) The oil dipstick is now occluded by the intake hose unfortunately. I am thinking of a way to bend mine. For you, not a big deal. For us, checking the oil quickly during a pit stop is important, so I need to figure out how to relocate it without changing the dimensions.

2) The oil filler is occluded too. Again, all you need to do is unclamp the intake and move it out of the way. But for me, I'm having to machine an adapter that allows me to move the filler neck out of the way so we can add oil during pit stops.

Question - do you have a link to the place where you got the blue silicone emissions hoses? I haven't gotten that far yet, but it would be nice to have a known place to shop at.

Great job man, can't wait to see it back in action.

-G
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Chris H.
post Jun 2 2016, 10:26 PM
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Thanks George. Yikes I had not noticed the oil filler thing yet. Will have to think about that one too. The blue silicone hose I have is from e-bay, BMW 3.5MM. Here's a place that has it for pretty much exactly what I paid 3 years ago:

BMW Blue Hose

Sold by the meter. I think I bought 3M and had a lot left.

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Chris H.
post Jun 2 2016, 10:39 PM
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Hey George what about turning the air intake (black snorkel piece) the other way so the tube is on the passenger side? Some of the hoses connected to it would need to be longer but it should work the same.
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Chris H.
post Jun 3 2016, 10:03 AM
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Got the injectors back! They look brand new. I'll leave them in the bag until I reinstall them on the rails. If yours haven't been cleaned in a while...take a look at this:

Attached Image

Not terrible, but all it takes is one not flowing well and you have a problem. I had two in the weak category. Should see a difference for sure. Bet the other set is worse since most of the pintle caps broke off in my hand. $17.50 each. Not bad at all.

***EDIT***: Hey BTW I read on the subaru-SVX site that Mr Injector will take the injectors off of the rail for you. I don't think he charges for it. You just send the whole thing. It was an old thread so you might want to confirm.
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flmont
post Jun 3 2016, 10:26 PM
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Outfront carries a modded Alt. Bracket for the intake flip,..and small car carries a flexable dip stick,..as I remember it,..??? FM
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Chris H.
post Jun 12 2016, 12:19 PM
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Thanks Frank, I think I got it figured out.

Whoa boys (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ...I realized I was about to get into the DWD zone. I need to finish this and drive it! It's June!

So here are the pretty injectors...Who knew the tips were silver and not gold?? The other two were already on the rail by the time I remembered to take a pic!

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A little oil and they snap back onto the rail easily

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Moving fast now...

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Figured out what I'm going with the fuel lines since they are routed to pop out the other side. This is pretty exciting since I HATED it that they were on the opposite side from stock 914.

Cut the intake line from the others and bent the line a bit (OK a lot) with a tubing bender ($7.99 at HF)

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The return line comes off of the regulator.

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I don't see why I can't just run it from here. I'll run the lines under the intake and secure them as stock SVX so it should be fine.

As for the alternator, I uses George's idea of redeploying the empty power steering holder (it's adjustable) and flipping my alternator using the stock holder to the other side.

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I'll secure it to the manifold and where the 5/8 return line used to attach. Looks like I can use a Miata belt (I'll post the part # when I get it, the pic is on my other phone). It's 940mm, or just over 37 inches. BTW I have a TON of WD40 on the adjuster so it will loosen up a bit. That's why it looks nasty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .



Almost ready to put her back in! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914
post Jun 12 2016, 03:11 PM
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Way to go Chris. Some righteous progress. Looking good now get off the computer and back in the garage. More pics pls, Senior. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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motoTrooper
post Jun 13 2016, 09:13 AM
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Always wanting to see what your next progress post is all about.

One question that crept into my mind when I review your build, is when you switched from the Coldwater cradle to the one from bigkat you stated that the engine was moved back 4 inches so where were the transaxle axle stubs relative to the hubs? Were they 2 inches in front before and then 2 inches behind after the switch? I understand that, for lubrication purposes, you don't necessarily want them perfectly aligned with the hubs but you want them close(ish) yes?

I am going to pick up an engine this week for the Scorpion. So progress.
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