My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[nsyr]

nothing. the engine mounts are towards the back of the engine. the transmission keeps it from leaning foward.

[Chris H.]

nothing. the engine mounts are towards the back of the engine. the transmission keeps it from leaning forward.

You are correct sir, nothing up front. Without the trans it is very "front heavy" but that's why I tied everything together with the wood frame.

[jimkelly]

but in your pic there is no trans on the motor. I assume the motor is resting on a wooden cross member of your stand?

jim

[Chris H.]

Hey Jim,

Believe it or not the engine is being held in place almost entirely by the mounts coming up from the engine bar. They are VERY strong:





Although the front wood piece does provide a small amount of support it's barely touching the pan. It does stop forward movement at some point though and I think that is critical until the trans is hooked up. We're talking 80/20 weight distribution here....





The initial idea behind the wood frame was to keep the oil pan above ground when I lowered the engine down from the stand. Then I realized it could be extended back to the trans mounts and slightly change the weight distribution so that the engine doesn't flop forward onto the floor. If it wasn't for my novice mistake of forgetting the flywheel bolts the trans would already be in and the lump would be pretty evenly weighted. I want to get it running before I put it in so that will be next. Hopefully Ian will make some cable kits so I don't have to fab my own.

Are you done with your conversion Jim?

[nsyr]

I would be careful with those mounts. They are fluid filled and known to come apart. Both of mine have come apart. The replacement cost I believe is around 200 each! I will be replacing mine with sti mounts which have to be retrofitted.

[Chris H.]

I would be careful with those mounts. They are fluid filled and known to come apart. Both of mine have come apart. The replacement cost I believe is around 200 each! I will be replacing mine with sti mounts which have to be retrofitted.

Thanks Andrew, very good point. Yes they are vulnerable and pricey ($271 each at last check). I literally have not moved that thing an inch to keep stress at a minimum. Didn't plan to leave it like that for this long but they seem fine. Seems like this is not the first set for the engine... The bolts arrive tomorrow.

[Chris H.]

Look what came today....flywheel bolts...



These work great for the SVX. Part # is 800610740.

Comparison of the flex plate bolts vs. flywheel bolts. There's a joke in here, but it's too obvious...



Hey do you guys recommend using a small amount of blue loctite for these or is it not necessary? Unless someone HATES the idea I think I will.

[Chris H.]

It's one of those weeks where you get a surprise every day in the mail...here's today's:



Thanks to SpeedMetalArmy for the heads-up. Apparently this thing will not only translate a 6 or 8 cylinder pulse onto your stock tack but will stop the "tach bounce" that many of us get with 4 cylinder engines. Haven't tried it yet. It's pretty compact..

[Mike Bellis]

Hydraulic clutch bits...still need to decide whether to use metal or poly lines...leaning towards poly.

I ran a -3AN stainless braided PTFE line in mine. Worked great! I did buy some extra fittings and leave some slack in the line. This came in handy when the transmission side leaked during bleeding. I ran the line inside the factory clutch tube, slid in without effort.

[76-914]

That's a good tip Mike. Wow Chris, your moving right along. Can't wait to see your post/video of it running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I like your wooden engine stand. Clever! Just looking for good ideas to steal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

Thanks Mike. Definitely looking to copy a good idea on the clutch. If yours works well I will do the same. Your conversion turned out awesome BTW. You always finish your projects.

Kent, I would give you my "stand" if you lived closer. It's literally just a few pieces of 2X4 though. I'll post the measurements. It can be constructed in about 20 minutes. Are you using Ian's mount or fabbing one?

[76-914]

I'm building my own because he is out of commission for a while. I really just used this as an excuse to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) this. Anything lately?

[Chris H.]

Kent, I'm just about to pull the engine! Planning for this weekend.

Also think I figured out what to do for a water temp gauge. The 924 combo gauge is allegedly the same diameter as the 914 (100mm). It has water temp, fuel level, plus all the warning lights we need (oil pressure, alternator, low fuel, brake). It has a pointed plastic bezel, but I'll either swap that out for a flat piece of glass or swap the guts into the 914 combo gauge. Not sure if the fuel gauge will work well, but I can cannibalize my current one if need be. For $25 you can't go wrong.

Pic of a similar gauge from the interweb:

[76-914]

Very nice! Keep the pic's coming and the build going on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) I should talk! So damned busy with work I have to steal time to work on mine. Plenty of spare time = no work, which = no $$. No spare time = lots of work, which = plenty of $$. Vicious cycle.

[euro911]

I got tired of living that 'vicious' cycle, so I retired.

... and still don't have enough time to get everything done (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Chris H.]

Got the old engine out! I'm feeling a little bad about the engine swap but I think I'll get over it. The 1.8l is so original and unmolested... (but dusty)

Amazingly similar....





What do these numbers mean?



a 1.0L!?



All the heater tube clamps are the original VW embossed ones...



Back pad is awesome - just some paint on it but otherwise very good.



When I got back from my last drive of 2012 it was running a little rough....this MIGHT by why....#2 plug wire ripped out of its sheath. Ran pretty good on three cylinders for a few miles!



Got the rear hubs pressed



Engine hole - anyone know how to remove the glue that holds the back pad on? The paint under it is pristine!!!

[Chris H.]

To confirm the early 924 gauge seems to be a perfect swap-out. Same size, same warning lights needed. Still need to verify the fuel gauge but I can always use the 914 one. I'll see if the Subie water temp sender is in any way compatible but if not the 924 sender is super cheap.

[jimkelly]

3m has an adhesive remover - I think these might be it

http://www.premiumboatcare.com/3m-adhesive...channelid=FROOG

or

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-1729...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

jim

[Chris H.]

Thanks Jim!

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Way to go, Chris. I wasn't aware that the OG engine was still in the car! Did you sell it? I went a different route and sold mine first so that I couldn't "chicken out" when the going got rough. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Glad you are back on track and staying ahead of me so that I don't have to figure this stuff out by myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) In fact, your recent post on the flywheel bolts was perfect timing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Chris, where on Nasoic did you find the section on transmission/clutch cross referencing? BTW, thx for the Bremmer link. Got that done last nite, sans the spool itself. Keep up the good work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)