 2.0l fuel injected engine surge starve cycle? |
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| jdlmodelt |
 Jan 2 2013, 08:20 PM
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#1
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James D. Lane  Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
I finally got the ignition and fuel pump hooked up on my 76 2.0 L and the engine cycles between reving and stalling when I hold the pedal down to get a fast idle. What do I need to be checking now?
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Replies(20 - 33)
| DRPHIL914 |
Jan 3 2013, 02:07 PM
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#21
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,811 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States 
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| jdlmodelt |
Jan 3 2013, 02:19 PM
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#22
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jan 3 2013, 01:07 PM)  Okay. I'll read and try some things tonight. Thanks! |
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| Spoke |
Jan 3 2013, 02:29 PM
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#23
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,116 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None
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Does LJET have an MPS? I thought it had a mass flow sensor.
The car is a '76. This would've been LJET, correct? |
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| tod914 |
Jan 3 2013, 02:29 PM
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#24
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Do you have your oil pressure switch plugged in? It's just right (passanger side) of the distributor by about an inch or so. Theres a hole in the engine tin you'll see. You may or may not have the rubber boot on it. Actually that's the green with red stripes on that.
Check your email and foward me an email if you can. I want to email you a diagram that should help sort out all your wiring issues. Quick side note, if you very carefully slide the sheath/rubber boots up the wires, you can see that each wire has a specific number stenciled on it. It will correlate to the number on your sensor in most cases. That will help you figure out which way your plug goes into your MPS. Those numbers are on the plastic that you match to. It should only go in one way, but maybe your wire connector was changed some where down the line. |
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| DRPHIL914 |
Jan 3 2013, 02:44 PM
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#25
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,811 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States
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QUOTE(Spoke @ Jan 3 2013, 03:29 PM) Does LJET have an MPS? I thought it had a mass flow sensor. The car is a '76. This would've been LJET, correct? Not sure,. Ah, well i should read more careful. But l-jet info is there on p.b. anders as well. |
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| DRPHIL914 |
Jan 3 2013, 02:50 PM
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#26
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,811 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States
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duplicate post- darn phone!
- bill you have a 76 with F.I., what say you? |
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| jdlmodelt |
Jan 3 2013, 03:08 PM
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#27
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jan 3 2013, 01:29 PM) Do you have your oil pressure switch plugged in? It's just right (passanger side) of the distributor by about an inch or so. Theres a hole in the engine tin you'll see. You may or may not have the rubber boot on it. Actually that's the green with red stripes on that. Check your email and foward me an email if you can. I want to email you a diagram that should help sort out all your wiring issues. Quick side note, if you very carefully slide the sheath/rubber boots up the wires, you can see that each wire has a specific number stenciled on it. It will correlate to the number on your sensor in most cases. That will help you figure out which way your plug goes into your MPS. Those numbers are on the plastic that you match to. It should only go in one way, but maybe your wire connector was changed some where down the line. you can email me at jdlmodelt@yahoo.com |
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| r_towle |
Jan 3 2013, 03:35 PM
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#28
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,699 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States
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75/76 2.0 liter motor is Djet Fuel Injection.
The key differences is the air injection ports in the head, the Cat convertor and unique heat exchangers, and the emmissions system. The MPS and ECU are unique to the 75/76 model years, but Anders site deliniates all of that. Rich |
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| rhodyguy |
Jan 3 2013, 04:13 PM
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#29
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,207 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
reving and near stalling on its own accord is also as 'hunting'.
did this engine EVER run for you? print out the info from pb anders site and highlight the pertinent sections. i'm afraid you are going to have to go way back and try to undo what you've done. don't be in a big hurry, try to be methodical in your approach. if you tearing into it you'll get further in the hole. you're going to be bombarded with lots of great possible solutions. first order of biz is to become familiar with wiring schematic. not the whole car! just the engine circuitry. get a camera take pictures and post them. it will speed things up for you |
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| jdlmodelt |
Jan 3 2013, 08:53 PM
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#30
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I'm reading thru all the troubleshooting that was provided by the above posted link. I have two wires that come out of the distributor. I have two wires near the distributor from the wiring harness. I have a coil. I am struggling to find pictures or wiring diagrams that are easy to interpret to determine where each of the wires go. There is also a condenser that is mounted on the engine sheet metal next to the distributor and there is the temp sensor near the distributor. I'll check the wiring for the injectors that comes out of the bottom of the distributor tomorrow when the sun has risen and the temperature has gone up a bit. IT is supposed to be 7 deg F below zero tonight. My garage is not insulated yet....so my furnace does not do much to heat up the garage space.
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| tod914 |
Jan 4 2013, 11:25 AM
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#31
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Two suggestions, one take photos of your engine bay and post them.
Second suggestion which is what I would do, is to very carefully remove your FI harness. Then label each connector on it with tape and mark it exactly as shown in the diagram I sent you; A, B, C, D etc.. Then, find each associate sensor, etc. and mark that area with tape and label it; A B C D according to the diagram; example "I" = coldstart valve. Then use the diagram as a check list as each piece is connected. That should help in getting it installed properly and minimize any connectors in question. Otherwise it looks like a birds nest of wires. Hope that helps. |
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| jdlmodelt |
Jan 4 2013, 06:58 PM
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#32
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Jan 4 2013, 10:25 AM) Two suggestions, one take photos of your engine bay and post them. Second suggestion which is what I would do, is to very carefully remove your FI harness. Then label each connector on it with tape and mark it exactly as shown in the diagram I sent you; A, B, C, D etc.. Then, find each associate sensor, etc. and mark that area with tape and label it; A B C D according to the diagram; example "I" = coldstart valve. Then use the diagram as a check list as each piece is connected. That should help in getting it installed properly and minimize any connectors in question. Otherwise it looks like a birds nest of wires. Hope that helps. Woohoo! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) I got her running! I determined that the fuel injector wires were mismatched on both sides of engine. I found all the little wire numbers just as described. I verified wiring on the air inlet and down near the bottom of the distributor, the wiring loom for the distributor connections and the head temp were routed wrong such that the head temp wire could NOT reach the sensor, so I rerouted that so all wires could connect like they are supposed to. I have one wire from the coil wiring loom that I don't know where to land. Where does the RPM tach meter wire to? Engine sounds excellent! I was finally able to move the 914 over to the first car bay where the heater is so I won't be freezing my tail off anymore. I am SO excited! Pictures later this weekend! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
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| jdlmodelt |
Jan 4 2013, 07:00 PM
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#33
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
thanks everyone for all of the hints to figure this piece of the puzzle out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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| jdlmodelt |
Jan 4 2013, 08:06 PM
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#34
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James D. Lane Group: Members Posts: 345 Joined: 30-November 12 From: Colorado Member No.: 15,210 Region Association: Southwest Region |
QUOTE(Spoke @ Jan 3 2013, 08:25 AM) Can you take some pics of this potentiometer you're talking about? There was a trim adjustment on the ECU but not one in the wiring harness. May have been some bandaid by the PO. BTW, how is the normal idle? Is it smooth? How does the engine run if you try to go to a high RPM like 2k, 3k? Does it run good enough to drive it? It appears as though the pot was not tied to anything. just string tied to the wiring harness..I removed it. |
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