Dashboards are hard!, --- Let's talk vacuum bagging Options

[nomore9one4]

I may be wrong, but didnt craig at "camp914" start doing the vacuum formed dash panels??? Maybe he can give you some advise

[boxstr]

Give me a call and I can give you some ideas on how the professionals do it.
503-799-5794
Craig at CAMP

[moparrob]

The epoxy idea is a good start for the cracks. You need to add a sandable filler to it, though, to ease in the shaping of the finished product. The best product is called microballoons and we used to use it in model making. You add it to the epoxy and it makes it easier to sand.

Link to microballoons

[bulitt]

Very thin foam is a nice way to cover the cracks. For vac bags, you can use painters plastic sheet in a not too thick MM. Cheap and easy. I second the plumbers putty and fittings. With a dash it is easy because the bottom can be where you put the fittings so any marks are not an issue. I have been toying with this idea for a while.....it is on the back burner with other projects. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

An idea I have had for a cheap pump, try to find a used breast pump (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Probably cheap.

This will be great..."Evil Dashboard Clinic at Scotty's" ...bring your breast pump!
I can see the photoshop pics already
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Phoenix-MN]

When I modified a 911 dash for my project I used the Flexible Bumper repair filler, worked very well.





I cut back the cracks so the edges would not be rolled up.

[Woody]

You can vacuum bag with industrial strength saran-wrap.
You dont even need the fancy fittings that the pros use.
Some plumbers putty can seal odd places and is reuseable.

I have considered making a fiberglass mold of my dash cap and replicating them in carbon fiber.

Stu

Would it replace the whole dash? I want one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Bartlett 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Good thread. I would just add that I see several comments about using 5 minute epoxy. 5 minute epoxy is "thermal Plastic" 12 or 24 hour epoxys are usually "Thermal setting" The thermal plastic epoxy will soften with heat. The thermal setting will set faster with heat and is not as easily effected with heat. The dash will get hot in the sun.

[76-914]

The epoxy idea is a good start for the cracks. You need to add a sandable filler to it, though, to ease in the shaping of the finished product. The best product is called microballoons and we used to use it in model making. You add it to the epoxy and it makes it easier to sand.

Link to microballoons

Bob, if you go this route PM me. I have some leftover micro balloons from my aircraft days.

[Bob L.]

Thanks for some good ideas. I'll probably do the epoxy or bumper filler. I don't want to deal with a layer of foam.

If I do the epoxy I'll be in touch about the microbaloons.
I built a plane but never heard of the stuff.


Craig, Ill give you a call in the next day or two.

I just brought my pump home to give it a once over.

[euro911]

...
Bob, if you go this route PM me. I have some leftover micro balloons from my aircraft days.

I hope they're safer than those big balloons



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[Valy]

I used baking soda and superglue on several dash repairs. Works perfectly and has the same consistency as the vinyl cover. It's sandable and easy to work with.

My most important advice is to do the filling when the dash is warm/hot or else it will brake again when exposed to sun.

[nathansnathan]

Thanks for some good ideas. I'll probably do the epoxy or bumper filler. I don't want to deal with a layer of foam.

If I do the epoxy I'll be in touch about the microbaloons.
I built a plane but never heard of the stuff.


Craig, Ill give you a call in the next day or two.

I just brought my pump home to give it a once over.

I think my dad used to use this stuff, microballoons, mixed with super glue, to fill voids when he built a bunch of r/c airplanes back in the '80's Iirc.

[charliew]

I have done some diy car interiors, mostly when I was a lot younger. I may be wrong and someone chime in if I am but I think auto body filler kitty hair probably the short strand type would work on large cracks pretty good. Regular filler on small cracks. I think the bumper filler is really trying to stick to roughed up vinyl and metal not urethane. The summer heat is the challenge. I also would think the thin foam will have a shorter life trying to hold the vinyl in place than maybe a thin felt. I haven't tried to cover a curved dash before though and I will follow this thread as mine has developed a small crack at the windshield side by the gauge hump transition. We know this can be done well. My only hope is the first try is enough but usually on something like this as in car finishes only time will tell. My repairs on the urethane bumpers I did was only perfect for a few years. Probably because I missed some fractures.

I would also like the brand and vender of the 4 way stretch dash vinyl.

I have a 79 jeep truck that set several years with the passengers side window down in a pasture. The dash has never cracked and I have been using it since 01. Wierd huh.

[ruby914]

You can vacuum bag with industrial strength saran-wrap.
You dont even need the fancy fittings that the pros use.
Some plumbers putty can seal odd places and is reuseable.

I have considered making a fiberglass mold of my dash cap and replicating them in carbon fiber.

Stu

Would it replace the whole dash? I want one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Don't want to hijack but I have a mold. Made my CF 914 dash with it. I just dont have time to go into production. More on this in a new thread... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

[tracks914]

BTW I did cut back the edges too when i used epoxy.

[charliew]

The only thing I know about cf is my son's sti hood has dulled real bad in the sun. The only way to avoid that I think, is to rebuff it and then scotchbrite it then clearcoat it and rebuff it. I think the clear coat the mfg used is not as good as real urethane clearcoat paint. Just like fg panels or boat hulls.

[Bob L.]

www.diyupholsterysupply.com
All sport marine Vinyl. Comes in 11 colors. I ordered some samples. Should be here this week.

I wont be using the CF but am curious if is a cap or whole dashboard.

Valy, Good advice about fixing while warm/hot. Would there be the same problem in reverse when it gets cold?

[charliew]

I have thought about this and and I think the filler that is used needs to be about the same as the parent material so it will contract and expand the same amount. Although if it is covered with thin foam or felt that should hide any small cracks that come back. I have used a comercial urethane selant for a glue and a selant and I bet that will work but it is not sandable so it would have to be wiped on smooth. THe stuff I use is NP1. I did try this on the drip rail of my hunting truck and it shrunk and the paint cracked.

While I was searching for vinyl I found this:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/dash-recovering.shtml

http://www.jefflilly.com/shops/upholstery-...ard-covers.html

[ruby914]

www.diyupholsterysupply.com
All sport marine Vinyl. Comes in 11 colors. I ordered some samples. Should be here this week.

I wont be using the CF but am curious if is a cap or whole dashboard.

Valy, Good advice about fixing while warm/hot. Would there be the same problem in reverse when it gets cold?

Bob, It is a CF dash. Not an overlay. I started a new thread with a photo.

Mike