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> trailing arm stiffening kit
Socalandy
post Mar 8 2013, 10:07 AM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 8 2013, 05:59 AM) *

Where does one find a new paint code plate like that? I know the one on my Six was painted over long ago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)



QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 8 2013, 07:21 AM) *

QUOTE(Socalandy @ Mar 7 2013, 12:26 PM) *

I went with Eric's solution and it was easy to do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Andy, did you use .060" or .090" tube?



Kent, I bought 0.125 , 1/8" wall tubing. The vendor had a min. purchase so I got 4ft.

Your welcome to have what you need and borrow my step drill if you want or bring your arms over and we can do them here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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euro911
post Mar 8 2013, 01:02 PM
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Second in line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Socalandy
post Mar 8 2013, 03:42 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Mar 8 2013, 11:02 AM) *

Second in line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)


Kent has what he needs Mark so your up!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 8 2013, 04:44 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Mar 8 2013, 08:27 AM) *

QUOTE(Steve @ Mar 8 2013, 07:00 AM) *

JW aka Otto, RIP, who holds track records in 914's was a firm believer in the trailing arm stiffening kit. I bought his kit and installed them on my car.



All of the fastest drivers who know the difference, prefer a stiffening kit. But for full race not street.


Yup. On to Scotty's original question; I think a simple kit wouldn't hurt on a street car but, as Brant mentions, most gains will come on the track if that's your thing.

The factory kits only weigh 4-5 each and do stiffen the arm quite a bit but; why have a weight penalty if you can get better (and easier) results without it?
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gothspeed
post Mar 8 2013, 06:21 PM
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I like that idea of adding two 1" tubes through the trailing arm box. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Matt Romanowski
post Mar 8 2013, 07:49 PM
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The tubes don't triangulate at all, so I would wonder how much they help. I'm not sure they would help the arm not twist.
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euro911
post Mar 8 2013, 08:01 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I can easily see how adding stiffener tubes and gussets would help keep them from flexing. Like adding a cross-member to a ladder chassis.
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Jeff Hail
post Mar 8 2013, 08:03 PM
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Correct the tubes do not triangulate. What they do is keep the box from collapsing or buckling in on itself (deflection) under loading.

As far as the box reinforcement kits if you weld the outer vaneer first (laying the heat on) it will toe in. Then weld the inner vaneer it comes back... Mine did (Chris did you weld the inner first?)

In the end the chassis sheetmetal is the weak link.
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ChrisFoley
post Mar 8 2013, 08:14 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Mar 8 2013, 09:03 PM) *

As far as the box reinforcement kits if you weld the outer vaneer first (laying the heat on) it will toe in. Then weld the inner vaneer it comes back... Mine did (Chris did you weld the inner first?)

AFAIK, the boxed kits cover 3 sides only - top, bottom, and inside face. No welding on the outer surface makes for net toe out.
I'm not familiar with the outer veneer you're referring to.
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Jeff Hail
post Mar 8 2013, 08:19 PM
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Vaneers![size=4]





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Eric_Shea
post Jan 2 2017, 03:33 PM
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***UPDATE***

Here's a variation on this mod we did for the 914 ORV project. Thought I'd keep them all in one place.

You can "see what we did there..."

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Larmo63
post Jan 2 2017, 08:01 PM
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I love this latest idea. I'm going to try that. Looks easy peasy and great with the black powder coat.

Well played.
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mgp4591
post Jan 3 2017, 01:23 AM
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I drilled through the arms at places that will give me rigidity from a couple of different angles. I still need to weld and cut but these should work without excess weight.
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