Shrinkage ? |
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Shrinkage ? |
cary |
Mar 14 2013, 09:30 AM
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#21
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
After seeing how much the front 1/2's can move with the long removed, It does get your attention.
We do have it supported on the lift with a 4 * 4 between the 2 arms on each side. Its supporting the car at both the front and back firewall. Then we have tall adjustable jack stands on each corner of the tub. So we have it supported at 8 points. After seeing how much the body flexed when flipping it on the rotisserie. We knew that welding the long on the rotisserie was out of the question. Thats why we moved it to the lift. I do believe we'll create some sort of brace to go between the windshield and the targa bar before it goes back on the rotisserie. As I'm finishing this post. I think I'll stop at the hardware store and buy a couple a steel strips. Cut one at 25 1/8" and one at 1039mm for quick measurements as we begin to weld. I probably over simplified things by talking about the door gaps. That is just visual portion. I've been constantly measuring all four door opening measurements. I guess we have it supported in 9 spots. I used the Porta Power mini jack to get a couple mm. More coffee and more measuring. Patience is a virtue, and meaure 4 times, then cut Wish us luck. Today is the day. |
cary |
Mar 15 2013, 08:57 AM
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#22
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
It didn't happen. We're still tinkering. Super In Law still working on the long. Working on getting all the dis-assembled spots all tidied up.
I started my Millermatic welder training. Replacing some of the tore up spot welding flanges. New metal to new metal its a beautiful thing. New to old..............not so much. The nut plate on the drivers door came loose so I realigned the door. The portion above the handle cut out looks a bit excessive. That's because the body guy (me) shaped it going the wrong way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Perfect 5mm all the way to the bottom. Except where the body guy took of too much metal or Metal Ready |
cary |
Mar 15 2013, 08:59 AM
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#23
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Got tired of nicking the paint (whats left of it) with the micrometer. So I came up with a depth/width gauge.
Its a glazers tool. Don't know the name of it. I use it for lots of things. |
cary |
Mar 15 2013, 09:01 AM
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#24
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Here's the body supported on the lift.
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cary |
Mar 15 2013, 09:03 AM
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#25
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Here's the measurement tools I created for measuring while we weld in the long.
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SirAndy |
Mar 15 2013, 11:21 AM
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#26
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,945 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
I think you're doing good. Can't wait to see the finished result!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) |
mskala |
Mar 15 2013, 12:01 PM
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#27
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,927 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None |
... I do believe we'll create some sort of brace to go between the windshield and the targa bar before it goes back on the rotisserie. ... I don't know jack about such restorations, but I do know that the windshield pillars are very weak and easily moved. I would not brace to them. |
3d914 |
Mar 15 2013, 01:28 PM
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#28
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 24-September 03 From: Benson, AZ Member No.: 1,191 Region Association: Southwest Region |
That's a very challenging restoration. Impressive work so far - keep at it.
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cary |
Mar 15 2013, 02:30 PM
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#29
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE I don't know jack about such restorations, but I do know that the windshield pillars are very weak and easily moved. I would not brace to them. Its really more about the tub flexing when you flip it upside down. I'd just like to keep it all in place so that some of the metal doesn't create a memory of the wrong position. I need to figure out how to post video's. I'd like to show how much the two ends of the car will move without the long attached. |
worn |
Mar 19 2013, 10:46 AM
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#30
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,373 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
QUOTE I don't know jack about such restorations, but I do know that the windshield pillars are very weak and easily moved. I would not brace to them. Its really more about the tub flexing when you flip it upside down. I'd just like to keep it all in place so that some of the metal doesn't create a memory of the wrong position. I need to figure out how to post video's. I'd like to show how much the two ends of the car will move without the long attached. Cary, just want to complement you on saving this from the crusher. Also if you want to talk flexible, you could try an MGB with only the driveline tunnel connecting front and rear. The sills in those cars rust even faster than 914s. |
cary |
Mar 19 2013, 09:29 PM
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#31
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I've already crushed one. When they're gone, they're gone forever.
If I wasn't so damn anal it would be a lot easier. I've got one day of vacation to go. Trying to make old medal fit like new. Not going to happen. The long will be welded in in the am. Left with the weld thru primer brushed on. And Scotty B's Rustoluem sprayed on in the front cavity. So its ready to go. Spent the past two days puttering to get it to fit just right. No twists, no preload on any panel unions. It would have been alot easier without all the rust patches. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Feel real good. All four door opening measurements are perfect. I have the door gap set at 6mm for the first couple welds on both sides. I hope to shoot a video in the am showing how easy it is to move the door up and down when the long is removed. Don't know how to post them, but I'll figure in out. By the way Worn, I do have your donated suspension ear. Ospo'd, primered and coated with Rustoleum on the back side hole. |
cary |
Mar 20 2013, 10:05 PM
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#32
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Here's the door gap measurement rods in use.
Top one .............fits perfect. Now we go to measure the 1039mm measurement at the door latch. One has to be smarter than a 5th grader. Considering both planes are at an angle where is the correct spot to measure? With the door gap set a 5mm. Mine measures right in the middle of the radius. |
cary |
Mar 20 2013, 10:16 PM
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#33
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The long is finally installed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
The car is going back on the lift. Need to make some adjustments to the rotisserie. Front is too high. Lifts the nose and squeezes the door gaps. Plus we're going to build some sort of targa to windshield fame brace like I mentioned. Did put the suspension jig back on. Spot on. |
cary |
Mar 20 2013, 11:27 PM
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#34
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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cary |
Mar 24 2013, 08:58 AM
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#35
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Here's the door gap measurement rods in use. Top one .............fits perfect. Now we go to measure the 1039mm measurement at the door latch. One has to be smarter than a 5th grader. Considering both planes are at an angle where is the correct spot to measure? With the door gap set a 5mm. Mine measures right in the middle of the radius. Still looking for an answer on the bottom measurement............... I was just thinking. Has anyone every seen a stash of the factory body repair jigs? We've all seen the pictures out of the factory manual set. But have we seen the pieces in the flesh(metal)? |
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