Porsche 914 - 8 GTT, November '24 Update Options

[Maltese Falcon]

The "7psi boost" Fasten seat belt pressure switch bolted into the engine bay

[Maltese Falcon]

Setting up the "Phasing" of the 930 cv joints + Swayaway axles prior to installing them. A piece of .125 × 1" flatbar alum is the donor straight edge for the job. I use 1 gold dot= to indicate narrow area of the (inner) joint / 2 gold dots= wider area.

[NorCalScott]

Setting up the "Phasing" of the 930 cv joints + Swayaway axles prior to installing them. A piece of .125 × 1" flatbar alum is the donor straight edge for the job. I use 1 gold dot= to indicate narrow area of the (inner) joint / 2 gold dots= wider area.

I didn't know that was a thing. Can you please explain a little more? Why it's done? How it's done? Thanks!

[Dave_Darling]

The "how" is pretty obvious. When you assemble the CV joints, you mark the outside where the wider and narrower gaps in the inner race. Then when you slide the joint onto the splines on the shaft, you make sure they are lined up so that the one side wide gap lines up with the other side's narrow gap.

As to "why", that I don't know. I speculate that it's a vibration-elimination kind of thing, like phasing the U-joints on a driveshaft. But CV joints aren't supposed to need that--it's one of the reasons for using CV joints, after all.

What's the real reason, Marty?

--DD

[NorCalScott]

Are these the narrow and wide gaps you're referring to?

[NorCalScott]

or these? which essentially is the same thing as long they're opposite each other I guess.

[Maltese Falcon]

Are these the narrow and wide gaps you're referring to?

@Dave_Darling Correct on the Wide and Narrow areas towards the outer portion of cv housing, for this "Phase" procedure. Most cv joint (stock operational angles) do not require this set up, but can't hurt to set up this way. The 930 joints (housing, cage + ball bearings) that I'm using are referred to as Deep-plunging and will operate at higher than stock angles. With the Phasing, I will gain another +3° to 4° of range, over the operational range of 15+°. The more-than-desired axle angles are created by the drive-flange locations of the "Flipped" 996gt2 transaxle, and me not wanting to lower it closer to the ground.
Same type of cv's are in use on 1,000+hp LS v8 sand rails...these are sourced from McKenzies Offroad in OC, California. Several Youtubes are online with DIY's for 930/ 934 cv joint phasing.

[NorCalScott]

Are these the narrow and wide gaps you're referring to?

@Dave_Darling Correct on the Wide and Narrow areas towards the outer portion of cv housing, for this "Phase" procedure. Most cv joint (stock operational angles) do not require this set up, but can't hurt to set up this way. The 930 joints (housing, cage + ball bearings) that I'm using are referred to as Deep-plunging and will operate at higher than stock angles. With the Phasing, I will gain another +3° to 4° of range, over the operational range of 15+°. The more-than-desired axle angles are created by the drive-flange locations of the "Flipped" 996gt2 transaxle, and me not wanting to lower it closer to the ground.
Same type of cv's are in use on 1,000+hp LS v8 sand rails...these are sourced from McKenzies Offroad in OC, California. Several Youtubes are online with DIY's for 930/ 934 cv joint phasing.

Thanks Dave! Makes sense and I'll check it out on YT. I had never heard of this before. One other thing I've heard is that plunging CV joints shouldn't be used on both the inner AND outer locations because the axle can tend to move inward and outward constantly, which is implied to be a bad thing, but it sounds like Marty and yourself aren't using a fixed CV joint at all and it's perfectly fine.

[NorCalScott]

I went back through this build thread again looking for pics of the pedals you're using, but couldn't find anything. Did I miss it or have you not posted anything on that yet? Just curious what pedal setup and master cylinders you're using. Not boosted I assume?

[Maltese Falcon]

I went back through this build thread again looking for pics of the pedals you're using, but couldn't find anything. Did I miss it or have you not posted anything on that yet? Just curious what pedal setup and master cylinders you're using. Not boosted I assume?

Here's the inventory* on the Tilton foot-pedal equip. It's all floor mount and I've made a few changes to the uneven 914 floorboard= will make for a better install/ operation. Not a vac boosted brake system.
The 3 different size (bores) master cylinders are matched for the requirements of the brakes; Front (6 piston), Rear (4 piston), and clutch.
*Pegasus Racing is my go to place*
So it's on the To-Do list...but all sourced !

[NorCalScott]

Cool. Nice setup. This has been my favorite build since discovering it a few years ago. It's looking awesome, can't wait to see it with wheels and tires at ride height. It's going to look freakin amazing! Thanks for sharing!

[Maltese Falcon]

The new (custom hand made) main vehicle electrical harness is about ½ way wired. Haltech Elite 2500 ecu/mgmt harness is done and its installation will follow up after this is done.

[Maltese Falcon]

Non stop wiring...so this is small bracket that I came up with; keeps the crank trigger (small white) coax cable from running up into the alternator pulley/or belt. The #16 Goodridge firesleeve contains: the trigger cable, a couple grounds, the B+ charging cable* from alt to battery.
*B+ using a HD silicon insulated cable combined with another anti chaffe insulater inside the Goodridge...gotta be safe !

[tazz9924]

When you say trigger wire, is that for the alternator or crank?

[Maltese Falcon]

@tazz9924 crank trigger, follow the white cable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[tazz9924]

Some times high current wires like the main alternator wire can mess with the crank signal. Im not an expert, but i think a lot of times the cam and crank sort of get their own harness to prevent interference.

[tygaboy]

So long as the sensors run shielded cable, properly grounded, they should be good in terms of draining any noise. I can't read the product lableing on that white wire (other than "Made in USA") but it certainly looks like the proper stuff. I'm betting Marty has this covered...

[Maltese Falcon]

@tygaboy @tazz9924 thanks for looking out for me...good to have the "World's eyes" here for constructive critique !
Yes the coax shielding on the Haltech Elite (white trigger cable) is grounded at both ends of its run + I'll also check in with their tech nearby in Lake Forest.
If needed this small 18" run can be pulled out of the firesleeve in a minute + run independent
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/marty914.jpg)

[jd74914]

@tygaboy @tazz9924 thanks for looking out for me...good to have the "World's eyes" here for constructive critique !
Yes the coax shielding on the Haltech Elite (white trigger cable) is grounded at both ends of its run + I'll also check in with their tech nearby in Lake Forest.
If needed this small 18" run can be pulled out of the firesleeve in a minute + run independent
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/marty914.jpg)

Grounded at both ends is usually not a good idea due to potential for ground loops. I typically lift at the sensor end.

[tygaboy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
You only want it grounded at one end. In my application, there's a pin in the ECU for all sensor grounds. Good move to verify with your ECU mfg it's set up correctly.