CptTripps' Restoration 2 - The Grey Matter Build, Back in Doug’s garage Options

[rhodyguy]

you joined today and your location is bhopal!!?? i'm not going to open that link for any reason.

[mgp4591]

you joined today and your location is bhopal!!?? i'm not going to open that link for any reason.

I dunno... maybe that Office of Disbursment in Calcutta really needs your info- you could be a millionaire!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[CptTripps]

That's a spam bot.

I got a lot done this morning. Broke down the engine to all but the timing belt and pulleys. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar, trying to get the crankshaft pully off. Going back tomorrow and bringing a torch!

Also had fun with my new Soda Blaster today. That's going to be a useful addition!

[mgp4591]

That's a spam bot.

I got a lot done this morning. Broke down the engine to all but the timing belt and pulleys. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar, trying to get the crankshaft pully off. Going back tomorrow and bringing a torch!

Also had fun with my new Soda Blaster today. That's going to be a useful addition!

Some of those crank bolts I thought were lefty/tighty righty/loosey... Mebbe not... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[DBCooper]

It was you asking about a custom harness for Megasquirt, wasn't it? Here's one from Mario at The Dub Shop, still on the fab board. I think it's for an EJ22, but not that much different:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net-2618-1382829259.1.jpg)

Makes things pretty close to plug and play. I did the EMS Stinger in my car, but if this had been around back I probably would have done this.

[jimkelly]

tripps

I got this tool, you can borrow if you want.

i think it should have a rod welded on for a handle though for stability.

i believe it is for suby crank pulley removal.

jim

[bulitt]

you joined today and your location is bhopal!!?? i'm not going to open that link for any reason.

The location of a terrible chemical accident in the 80's
Sorry, carry-on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[CptTripps]

DB: I got a deal on a Hydra EMS 2.7 over at NASIOC, so I'm going to give that a whirl first. I can always buy the stinger later.

Jim: Thanks for the offer. I am going to give it another crack tomorrow with some heat...and a new breaker bar. :-)

mgp: I had the same thought...double checked at a couple different places.

[914forme]

Counter clock wise, just popped mine off the EG33. Of course I have this nice 36" long breaker bar, and a flex plat lock I made out of a bolt and a piece of flat steel. Took nothing. I will say this sometimes it seems Japanese motors are not assembled by torque specs. I had a crank bolt on a Honda that took a 6' long cheater, thank you DOM, and another one that long to hold the crank still, finely with an extra 260 pounds of force it busted loose. Luckily it was in the car. But come on does it really take 1560 Ft. Lbs. to bust a crank bolt, yes it does.

[DBCooper]

Half inch impact wrench, which is how they're put on. Those wrenches usually rated at 300 ft/lbs, but the impact is the key in breaking those loose.

[CptTripps]

Well, crap. No clue how I'm going to get my impact wrench to the office.

I bought another 1/2" breaker bar. 26" this time...and found a 6' gas pipe I'll use too. If that doesn't do it, I'm taking this thing to a subaru dealer and asking them if they have any bright ideas.

[Chris H.]

Did you blast it with some penetrating oil? Might want to do that for a day or two. Then the breaker bar/pipe should work. Just take it easy so you don't snap the bolt head off. It'll most likely break loose with that combo...I had to use a cheater pipe.

[CptTripps]

Good plan Chris. I'll grab some PB blaster today and start spraying it. I'll be out of town for a few days this week, so I'll hit it good before I leave tomorrow too.

I'm thinking about replacing the pistons/rods/valves while I have it all broken down. I've come this far...think it's worth the effort? Seems like another $800-$1k at this point would make sure that I'm not going to have an issue down the line.

[CptTripps]

Just met with the shop that's going to do all the body work and paint after I get everything welded in. They think 3-4 weeks and about 40-80hrs of work to do the car right. I think if it takes $5K for the body to be perfect...I can live with that. I want a car that I won't ever sell...and won't feel like I compromised on anything. Something I'll have for a very long time.

I'm also making plans to build a rotisserie for it. I think I'm going to use 2 1,000lb engine stands and weld up a more substantial base so I can rotate everything and raise it up. If I could find a cheap one locally, that'd be the way to go, but I'm thinking for about $300 in metal and parts I can get it done.

[Chris H.]

Good plan Chris. I'll grab some PB blaster today and start spraying it. I'll be out of town for a few days this week, so I'll hit it good before I leave tomorrow too.

I'm thinking about replacing the pistons/rods/valves while I have it all broken down. I've come this far...think it's worth the effort? Seems like another $800-$1k at this point would make sure that I'm not going to have an issue down the line.

I don't really have any experience with the turbo 4's so not the best one to ask on that. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in. With 60k it seems like it's not necessary...really just getting broken in at this point...how did it run before the wreck?

I was going to recommend re-sealing the engine but I'm sure you'll do that. Think you can get a kit that has every seal. Subaruparts.com had one for my EG33. Might have to call them. How did the valve covers look? Any oil leakage? It's not a sign of anything bad, just curious. Mine was a nasty mess, but much older.

[CptTripps]

The only thing I don't have is the head gaskets. I was thinking of picking those up for good measure, but there aren't any leaks right now so I'm not sure it'd be worth the effort unless I was doing everything.

Motor ran great before the wreck. It even started up afterwards and sounded real smooth. Perhaps I just won't bother.

In other news: My 911 3.5" Boge struts FINALLY arrived from Carrera Parts. Actually in decent shape. They also gave me a set of trailing arms for the trouble. Hmmm.

[Chris H.]

Wow...buy a lottery ticket!

Yeah same here on the head gaskets...I do have 'em (only because they came with the kit and the engine has 140k), but since you have to take the engine pretty far apart to change them I'll wait until they are needed. It's highly unlikely you will need them for a while.

[CptTripps]

So would you suggest doing it as a "while I'm in there"?

I'd rather not pull it down this far again.

[Chris H.]

For me when I looked at the procedure and the exploded view diagram of the EG33 I decided no, I'll wait, and it might be above my level of competence anyway. Might be a bad call on my part, we'll see.

On yours my thinking is with 60k miles it really SHOULD be fine for a long time yet, and you'd be loosening and re-tightening stuff that was done by the factory, etc. Hopefully we'll get more opinions. There's a guy on my thread who did an EG33 swap into an Impreza. He's a well known member on rs25.com. Might want to ping him as he seems to be a general Subie expert (BRZCory). That forum is a lot kinder to questions than NASIOC BTW.

[CptTripps]

Couple of updates:

Got the rest of my Subaru engine stuff yesterday. Head gaskets, TGV gaskets, and an aluminum alternator pulley. I also talked to a guy that is local, and builds the engines for race applications. He's going to do the TGV delete for me, and we're going to discuss rods/pistons/valves and what I'm going for. I also picked up a VF39 Turbo, so with the calculations that he put together for me, without anything else, and a bit of tuning, I should be north of 325hp to the wheels. He's pumped because says ~325hp is screaming fast in an STI...which is about 1,000lb heavier than what I'm putting it in. Fun times!

Oh...and I bought a rotisserie. ;-)