Signal Single Orange 74 EG33 Swap, Gone but not forgotten Options

[914forme]

Bad SD Card reader / cable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) I tossed something on the cable. and like magic it popped up, and I seized the opportunity to grab the files.

So here we go!!!!



Overal Picture, plenty of clearance for cabling etc....



I will add triangulation in the plane the lines represent. This will tie the bracket in at three places. Even though its plenty strong , reduce metal fatigue do to vibration.



Will do the same on this side. Bracket will be made to catch the two points one down at the block and the other off the upper manifold. I will just need to finish welding, clean it up, and add it to the pile to get powder coated. The wood is my prototype spacer, it will not make it to the production vehicle. Though I have been thinking that maybe it should as a sheet of G10 Phenolic Material from USP is $1344.99 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) I can replace a bunch of them as the get gross, from Lowes for $1.49 in raw material. Not the correct Material for the job. I'll keep searching for a better price, and or sandwich the phenolic material between another piece of aluminum. Which is most likey the solution. As a 1/8" sheet is only $190.78 and I am sure I can sell off the extra material for other peoples projects. Or make up a bunch of EG33 phenolic spacers and sell them off, long return on my investment, lol.

[914forme]

Its been cold around here -15 the other day, and I am out of fuel for my heater (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So I started working on things that I could do in the house. So back to gauges. I ordered two items, I have given up on redoing a bunch of gauges, yet I might still do one.

I need to have a speedo that works with Subaru trans.
I want a tach, with programable shift light.
I naed a fuel level gauge, I have run my 914 bone dry before
I would like a volt meter
I would like a water temperature gauge
I would like oil pressure


The speedo I solved by getting a new VDO 4" programable speedometer. It has an LED trip / ODO. Just a modern version of our old speedo. Different font, but easier to match.



The Tach, I went with a VDO Pro Eliminator tach, it has a shift light, programmable, and replayable, if I want to watch a tach needle bounce up and down. I will most likely redo the gauge face on the tach, as I don't like the huge Pro Elm lettering...



I will need to remove it from the pedestal mount. And move the function buttons some where else in the car.

I can thank DBCopper for these tips.

And well then I need to build a combo gauge, so here comes the 924 to the rescue. These are the basis for the build, I still need to design the plate that holds the gauge movements in. All needles will move clockwise, I know that bugs some people, but unless I use an amp meter or find other senders that cause the gauge to swing in the opposite direction. Heres the mockup of the gauge.



The VDO fuel gauge is setup that way, I don't like it. It's currently all digital so I can change it. Need to hook it up and see, where empty really is. I eliminated all the extra info I don't need to see.

Notification center for battery, brake, Oil Pressure, and C. E. (Check Engine) Though I could move that to the Fasten Seat Belt light in the center dash.



The system I am using to label the gauges, uses a foil that is activated by the toner on the page. So the design is done in reverse, so I can print it in white and other colors.

[914forme]

Old man winter did not keep me out of the shop yesterday, today he decided to pile on some snow to slow me down. Dug out 6" so far today, still more to come.

So yesterdays progress. project ADD kicks in, and I start looking at the sandblaster I have in the back of the shop. Well modified a bunch of items, and upgraded a bunch of crap. Project not done yet, still need to build a stand. I hate buying cheap tools never worth the effort to get them correct.

Sometimes I have the feeling that cheap swaps are the same way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Case in point, alternator amount. I changed my plan a little when I got an idea, very bad thing ideas are.

This was taken before I finessed the mount for the alternator and cleaned it up. so it has a little tilt to it. That has been fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)



Since I am building a spacer between the lower section of the intake and the upper, why not extended it out, catch this bolt, and support it from this side. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

So I finished up the bracket, triangulated it down the the left side bolt, and the rear and well it fits like it was supposed to. Welded it all up, cleaned up the welds, and now it is done until I prep it for finishing.



Closer shots, that is the stock SVX belt.



Like Fuji Engineers plan for that lug to be there.



And cross over pipe clearance, I think that will work.



So there you have it the last detail that will keep me from using the stock intake flipped forward so I don't have to cut up even more of the rear trunk.

But then bad ideas came into my head again, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) and I dug some TBs out I had been saving for a project.

They came from one of these.....



And this is what they look like on another H6



My plan is to get the car running with he stock intake, and mess around with these as I like the look, retro, yet modern.

And well these things are cheap, I have less than an uncle ben in 6 TBs. Each TB is 44mm at the throttle plate, and 50mm overall per each runner.

But there is a lot of fab work to b done, and well, it is a back burner project.

Project ADD get my focus back on, and keep moving forward.

I did try a mockup unit from Vintage Air, even their smallest unit, does not fit a 914 with out some modifications. Either to the unit, or the 914, I am thinking the 914! If I drop the shelf down a little this might just work!!!! Need to mark it up, and see whet might be required to be moved.



Some cutting I think it would work, but I also think other manufactures might have a better fitting system. Or I move the blower off the the side on the vintage air unit. I like there unit as its all electrical servers. That makes hooking up and breaking the system apart easier.

Then I have another idea, what if I used an under dash unit, and just built a setup around it. Heat, A/C, and then I could route over to defroster.

I know I know Renegade sells a unit, I just never liked the look of the under dash systems.

[914forme]

Works been hell this last week, so time for some 914 therapy!!!

Got this in finally, and well I could not leave well enough alone, so I took it apart!







Popped the needle off, two spoons, pops right off!






Pried the bezel off



All of this work to get to this.



Plan is to make it look more like this.

Remove all the logos and the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) COMP Eliminator II

Add three LED spots for turn signals and high beam And maybe the check engine light, though Im not happy with it.

[Dave_Darling]

I hope you marked the "rest" position of the needle.

--DD

[914forme]

I hope you marked the "rest" position of the needle.

--DD

Thank you Dave for bring this up, as I forgot to mention it. The easiest way to calibrate the tach again is one of three ways.

If you have access to a pulse generator, generate the pulse use a calibrated instrument to measure the pulse, hook up the tach, and gently put the needle on the running tach, in the proper position. Or you can mark it and the place the needle on once you disconnected it. Just have to turn the shaft back to the marked position. lots of original faces have these tick marks on the outs side edge where quality control hooked them up to a bench unit and did this, adjust the potentiometers, and glue them closed once it was done. Modren instruments are a little more refined than that. Older instruments have the look an feel of precision. Some have the precision of a watch maker. They can be art work with in them selves. Modren stuff is a servomotor,and a few chips, resistors, and diodes. And then the newest stuff, is a server driven, via a pulse from the computer.

On an engine test stand, hook it up with another tach, and well get it done. Not as accurate, but can be close enough

In the car, same thing. Harder to move around, stuff in the way.

Least favorite trail and error!!!

You can do this with any gauge. Just have to know its input needs and its scale, done. Even mechanical driven speedos can be calibrated by a controlled source.

BTW, if you don't know this about me, I have been working on gauges since I was 13 years old. First gauge restoration was on a 1967 CJ-5. After that I got into Karmann Ghias. I had a sleeper Ghia, used a 930 Tach, with 914-4 guts, and the Boost gauge as a fuel gauge. I had a 914 combo gauge Oil temp and oil pressure thank you 911 on the other side, and 914 speedo 150 MPH on the other. Even installed the trip reset function. 914-4 5.5 Inch steelies crammed in the fenders, with stock ghia hub caps, where the only external signs the car was not stock. But if you followed it through the twisties, you found out that its was no normal Ghia!!!! Stock 1600DP engine except a CB performance dry sump setup. My parents house was on a long up hill sweeper. Every morning, I knew where to turn off the engine and coast to the stop sign, where I would refire the engine. The dry sump solved that problem.

I miss that car, its the car I had when I dated my wife, its the second car my father and I rebuilt, this one was a rolling restoration. Family, and work got in the way, parts got sold, body had rusted away. Not many panels being made back then, and well being in the rust belt took it's toll.

After that I started doing the 904 triple gauge setups, machining the pieces was easy, laid them out in AutoCAD, sent them to a laser cutter, and bam, we had the kits. Got a local plater to do the back plates, same guy that also plated parts for the space shuttle. Silver Cadmium. Down fall was the powder coating process was still brand new, quality sucked, and then the screen printing sucked also. So I sold off what I had left to Pelican, they got the face work done, and sold the kits. I lost money on that deal.

John seems to do a great job with then now. Technology has progressed to the point now that custom work is much easier. Heck if I had heard of an ALPs printer back then, I might have a different career.

I now do this stuff for my cars, doubt I will reproduce these for anything but my own cars, as it is fun, for me. Lets me play, and engineer some one off stuff, and makes that car mine, all mine. And I enjoy the build more than the drive in reality.

But then I tend to like to hang out with the hot rod / old school racer crowd. Matter of fact, I also did this yesterday, though the gauges in this car where not impressive. The Buggati in person was (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)



Detroit Autorama - must go to event for me!!!!

[914forme]

My wife had a 1990 Miata, I added a bunch of goodies, very clean car. 25th anniversary present for her. We where married in Dec. 1989, Miata was manufactured in Nov. 1989. It was the car we wanted back then but could not afford. Wife decided she wanted an EOS sold the Miata, picked up an EOS, son drives it more than my wife, he's home from college (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Person I sold the Miata to wrecks it with in 2 months of car being sold. I buy it back for salvage costs. Lots of good parts for my parents car. Hard top, good soft top with glass window. 1994 Torsien LSD ( they don't need, they have a 1994 M editions sticks had LSD) Wheels etc.....

Start looking at it and thinking man that car can be brought back for less than my 914 project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Sell 914 and all its stuff, build Miata.

Nerd in me takes over and I do a spreadsheet over lunch.

Rebuild to stock = $3338.00
Swap in 1999-2000 engine 140HP NA in a 2000lbs car $4787.00
V6 Swap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) $7138.00
Did not even price out the LS swap

Time, Stock 2 months
1.8L Swap 3 Months
V6 Swap 6 months - winter time , so 9 months before on the road
914 Swap in current state - 2 years, unless I hire out metal work and paint, then 1 year of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) around with bad body shop, 1 year to get it done right, and another for me to finish the swap.

Exercise talked me out of redoing the Miata. Post the tub onto a Miata forum see if someone grabs it up. I have way to much in parts for my 914 project. I have 15+ in the 914 right now, I should have never done that math. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) Most likely more than that if you count the number of iterations this car has been though.

Stock 2.0L
Built 1911
Built 2.0L
Built 2056
Built 2.5L never got done
Now EG33 most likely never gets done, if I don't start doing some build work on it.

[Amenson]

Stephen,
I was reading your post and all I could think of was that I have a guy from Dayton coming to my house today to pick up some C10 parts and I could send a dope slap back with him to knock some sense into you.

Unless you are including the words, turbo, LS, and E85....step away from the Miata.

Focus on the glorious sounds and excellent torque that the EG33 will bring to your daily commute.

Cheers,
Scott

[Chris H.]

Stephen...come back to the reservation...

DON'T worry about getting the bodywork perfect or the paint work before you get the car running and driving. Just get the drive train done and installed and do the mechanicals/rust/safety stuff.

You'll learn in the end that you like the process just as much or better than the end result. It will never be done. BTW I just learned this...

Fuel Pressure Regulator Mod

Fuel pressure is a tad low with stock ECU settings. Adding an aftermarket FPR increases performance and solves the stall issue.

BTW we have another EG33 guy coming soon. TBA...our numbers are building! You can't leave the club now! Your insight is too valuable!

[914forme]

Scott, not to worry I talked with my wife this morning, and she promptly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/whack_3.gif) me. Hey that guy could have been my neighbor, he has a few C10s littering his property. At least they are not up on blocks. BTW, how did you know the EG was going to be running E85, you reading my mind.

Chris, thanks for the tip, I hated that stumble, always thought it was part of the fuel, automatic, gear shifting program in the SVX.

I need to get the Miatas out of the shop, they are fun, but sometimes I get a little bit distracted from the goal.

And thank you both for bringing me back to reality, I need that at times. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Amenson]

Scott, not to worry I talked with my wife this morning, and she promptly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/whack_3.gif) me. Hey that guy could have been my neighbor, he has a few C10s littering his property.

...

You have a good wife!

Ask your neighbor if he has a '67-'72 bed that he wants to get rid of. Preferably a short bed but a long bed at the right price would also work.

Cheers,
Scott

[914forme]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) The none fun stuff..... And still more stuff to cut out....









Rad opening cut out, will roll the opening over with lots of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) and a T bar.


Oh and some bling came in (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)



Always wanted a set of GT headlight lifts. Thanks to the Mike and his GB, I have a set (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Spot weld cutter bits are getting a workout here. Removing everything I don't think I will need. I am sure I will have weld some stuff back in.

Next up engine shelf, still (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) on how to take that one out. Right now I am thinking plasma cutter, but am open to suggestions.

[Amenson]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) The none fun stuff..... And still more stuff to cut out....

Next up engine shelf, still (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) on how to take that one out. Right now I am thinking plasma cutter, but am open to suggestions.

Great progress, I really like the cable headlight parts!

As for the engine shelf, cut out big chunks the most efficient way possible and get back to spot weld cutting. I had a Blaire kit with a pack replacement cutters and burned through a few.

Cheers,
Scott

[914forme]

Hmm, so I was reading the ForSale ad for the RS, sad to see it go, I am sure Joe has is reasons. And he mentioned he was giving it a redo to make it less unique. All in hopes it will appeal to the crowds and sell quicker.

Well, I popped the question and ended up with these, love to have a couple other parts but I fear they will be gone before I save the coin to grab them.

Thank you Joe, should of had you sign them or something.





Oh real Hella Lamps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)



And test fit in the car:



All boxed up now and on the shelf, need to get back to cutting up the car. Also spending way to much time reading ajserrano GT build thread over on pelican. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Have not made it to the end, I stumbled into looking for an idea I remembered from Jon Lowe's old site. Now spent part of the night studying very page in detail, I am half way done..

I forgot I met him back in 199? at the Savannah HSR race, meet Jon and Nancy Lowe down there, hung out with the Brumos crew, drank Hurley Haywood Cola, thanks to Bob, and had a great time. And then this guy showed up and took pictures of every square inch of that car. Im guessing my foot is in at least one of his shots. Looking over his pbase site I see all the pictures and remember the car well. That was a great weekend at the races.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) About time that you got busy again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) I like those tail lights, as well. Who sells them? I looked at the same Vintage Air set up until I was blue in the face. I really wanted to use the existing face plate with their adapters, as a controller, but I ran into the same thing as you. About a 1/2" too tall to fit and I didn't want to start cutting that area out at this stage. Their "slim line under dash unit" with heat looks OK and can work with a console if you trim the top of the console down about 2". I also saw these Chinese AC/Heat units for $70 shipped. 12"x12.5"x4". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Misery loves company and I could help but laugh as I read thru your ADD exercises. Jesus H Christ, ADD ADDs lots of hours to a project, doesn't it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Ask me how I know. I've got to go now. Something shiny just flashed before my eyes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[914forme]

Not sure the guys name, I can't retrieve it currently. John I think, one of the Mulholland racers. Now that will drive me nuts. John Hall? Dang it, this drives me crazy, I can see his build thread like its in front of me. He owns the rights to the light buckets, when they came up, I had to grab a set. the other pieces I want to grab the carbon fiber deckled are gone (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I knew that deal would not last long!!!

Chris also has a set on the 914R



That under dash unit, gives me an idea, I might be willing to cut that one up, as it is pretty easy layout. Replace the vents with ducts for the dash vents and stick a couple in the dash, or center console and be done. Thanks for giving me another path to run down.

[mepstein]

I thought craig at camp914 had done the RS tail light at one time. Jeff hail also used a set in his build but I think he made them from scratch.

[914forme]

Place called AR Concepts seems to have done them, thats what Chris has in his car.

Chris' r taillight thread

So your guess is as good as mine, and thank for the name reminder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914forme]

Got the wrecked Miata out of the shop, hoping the guy coming down takes it home tomorrow, we will see.

After doing a few other things I started working on the 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Started cleaning all the adhesive off the targa bar. And ran out of 3M adhesive remover (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Add that to the to order list.


Worked on cleaning up the clutch slave cylinder hole.

Before, I scribed the line.


And After


Flip the car over and started cleaning up old weds , and cutting out not needed stuff. I welded all this stuff, upside down, never cared about how it looked as long as I got on track.







I have been trying to get this dirt oil, grease, tire rubber messed clean up. Anybody got ideas on how to clean this crap, so I can epoxy prime it?

Started cutting out the engine shelf, my body saw, needs more power!!! I do like the control it gives you.







Thats it until tomorrow, can't wait to spend another day in the shop! Its like Im getting a vacation. Forgot all about work today, thats a very good thing, love my job, just need a break so I can go back refreshed.

[76-914]

How close is your starter terminal to the chassis. I could never locate the starter that has the terminal at the 9 o'clock position and mine was too close to the chassis so I opened that hole up. I don't know if this will be your situation or not but it's something you might encounter. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)