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> Why won't it stay running?, 1973 2.0
TheCabinetmaker
post Nov 20 2013, 02:06 PM
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The thermo tine switch has nothing to do with the AAR. It lets the ecu "see" ambient temp so it can open the cold start valve. The aar opens and closes via a bimetallic spring that reacts to temp. Even with no power to the aar it will eventually close anyway by the engine heat, assuming the aar works properly.
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Rand
post Nov 20 2013, 02:09 PM
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Did you say it ran fine before you adjusted the valves?
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TheCabinetmaker
post Nov 20 2013, 02:14 PM
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QUOTE(Rand @ Nov 20 2013, 02:09 PM) *

Did you say it ran fine before you adjusted the valves?

Yes he did, and therein. I think, lies the problem. Did the same thing on my first vlave adjust many years ago.
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Rand
post Nov 20 2013, 02:19 PM
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Have to wonder how this spins so far away before addressing that.
Maybe something went awry there?
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r_towle
post Nov 20 2013, 02:26 PM
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QUOTE(Rand @ Nov 20 2013, 03:19 PM) *

Have to wonder how this spins so far away before addressing that.
Maybe something went awry there?

did you read the thread from the beginning?
Just curious...
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TheCabinetmaker
post Nov 20 2013, 02:29 PM
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Rich addressed that on the second post of the thread, and 76-914 two posts later. He says he readjusted them, but were they done properly???
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Rand
post Nov 20 2013, 02:38 PM
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Same question still stands. It ran fine before. If there was an error in valve adjust process, it remains no matter how many times repeated.

If not, no prob. Just asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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nomedulla
post Nov 20 2013, 06:04 PM
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r_towle
post Nov 20 2013, 06:12 PM
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From what I have seen, Petronix are binary...work or no work....no middle ground.

So, your timing might be wierd now....take another look at how you mounted the plates, correct orientation no screws binding the motion...that can happen with the Petronix unit...the mounting screw might bind he advance plates...

Again, go look at what YOU did first, before you chase everything else.

Rich
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Java2570
post Nov 20 2013, 06:48 PM
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When I tried to solder my points plate ground wire, it quickly vibrated loose and caused the car to die.
However, then it wouldn't restart....it didn't act like what you are seeing. I ended up replacing the points plate in mine and that fixed my issue.
Could you have possibly moved your timing?
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nomedulla
post Jan 3 2015, 08:04 PM
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messix
post Jan 3 2015, 08:29 PM
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"Accelerator response still does not coincide with motor response
Revving motor, RPM gauge does not appear to coincide with sound of RPM being generated"

this concerns me.

does the tach "lag" behind the throttle opening?

does the engine lag behind throttle?

have you checked the tach wire connections?

there are air bypass adjustments at the throttle body. have you tried to adjust it there?
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nomedulla
post Jan 3 2015, 08:33 PM
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r_towle
post Jan 3 2015, 08:37 PM
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Do you have another tach to test?
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nomedulla
post Jan 4 2015, 05:03 AM
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nomedulla
post Jan 4 2015, 04:12 PM
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r_towle
post Jan 4 2015, 04:20 PM
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Try removing the hoses from the cold start injector and putting a solid piece of tubing, or one long hose in its place so no fuel touches the cold start injector.

Sometimes the die open and make the car run too rich, but may also make the pressure go down once you stop the car...
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