My new 2.0 won't start, Need help!! Options

[kkid]

Hi guys,

I spent last few weeks to prep on my newly acquired 2.0 and it's finally in the car! But she doesn't wanna wake up.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I know our Bay has been cold lately...but today is beautiful!!!

It turns over, has fuel pressure around 30psi when cranking(20psi soon after when the key turned off), static timing done after points gap adjusted, all the electrical connections checked I think, and what else???

Actually there're at least 2 concerns I can think of. When I got the motor, the dizzy rotor was pointing somewhere around#4 position when the TDC mark was showing in the round window. So I moved the gear in order for rotor to point #1 as I confirmed the valves were loose. But wondering if I did it correctly. I took the gas tank out as I installed stainless fuel lines. The tank was sitting in my garage for about a week or so then it developed some rust. So I cleaned inside with rust remover. But I might not have rinsed it well enough. New fuel filter still looks clean after uncountable numbers of attempt of starting the motor. New fuel sock is in the tank.




So I am stuck now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

What do you all think I screwed?

Thanks in advance,

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[krazykonrad]

Are you starting the engine with it in the car o on an engine stand?

Konrad

[Rand]

I didn't hear you say you had a good spark at the plugs. Seems too obvious, but.... Do you?

[kkid]

Are you starting the engine with it in the car o on an engine stand?

Konrad

it's in the car already as seen on the 2nd pic.

[kkid]

I didn't hear you say you had a good spark at the plugs. Seems too obvious, but.... Do you?

how can you tell if it's good or weak spark?

[kkid]

sorry, I gotta p/u my daughter from school.

[Kirmizi]

I didn't hear you say you had a good spark at the plugs. Seems too obvious, but.... Do you?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
It takes a combination of fuel + air + spark to fire.
Start by checking the basics

[gunny]

If you have a dwell meter hook it up and measure the dwell while turning it over. Should be 45-47.

You said that the fuel presure drops after cranking, does it go to about 0 shortly after you turn the key off?

[type47]

I'm putting my money on the distributor drive gear is misaligned/improperly located. If the timing is close and you have fuel and spark, it should at least cough...

[TheCabinetmaker]

Fuel lines at fuel rails are crossed?

[euro911]

... When I got the motor, the dizzy rotor was pointing somewhere around#4 position when the TDC mark was showing in the round window. So I moved the gear in order for rotor to point #1 as I confirmed the valves were loose. But wondering if I did it correctly.

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

You'll see the TDC marker in the window for every revolution of the crank, not just for cylinder #1. Make absolutely sure you're at TDC on cyl # 1. The fact that you said it was pointing at cyl # 4 and you had to rotate go the dizzy drive gear 180° has me wondering if you were watching TDC for cyl # 4 instead of # 1 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


For a spark check, pull one of your spark plugs out and lay it where you can see it. Keep the hi tension lead attached and ground the threaded portion with a good-sized alligator clip and jumper cable, then have an assistant crank the motor while you watch for spark.

[Rand]

I didn't hear you say you had a good spark at the plugs. Seems too obvious, but.... Do you?

how can you tell if it's good or weak spark?

One easy trick is to just pull a plug wire, plug in a good new spark plug, hold the threads of said plug to the block....Or some good ground.... And have someone crank the starter while you watch the spark.

That bugger should scare you with a nice fat blue/white spark. If it is weak and yellow then we have a troubleshooting track to go down.

[914sgofast2]

By changing the distributor drive gear around whn you got the motor back from the engine builder, you probaly have it 180 degrees out of time. The is only one correct position for the cam, crank and distributor to all be timed correctly when the engine is assembled. Let's assume the engine builder did it right, but the engine was turned over by hand after it was assembled, probably when they installed the fan & alterntor belt.
The firing order is 1-3-4-2. That means whenever TDC comes up to the timing mark/pointer, the rotor will either be pointing to #1 or #4 cylinder (and no others). Switch the distributor drive gear back to where it was when you got he engine and then set the static timing of the distributor. I bet it will probably start right up. I once had a similar problem with a 1960 Alfa Romeo Gielietta. The PO's previous mechanic had installed the distributor shaft drive gear wrong by 180 degress and then moved all the plug wires on the cap by 180 degress to make it run, instead of tearing the engine down to install the distributor shaft drive gear correctly. There is a reason the distributor shaft drive has a gear at one end and an offset "notch" at the other.

[wndsnd]

By changing the distributor drive gear around whn you got the motor back from the engine builder, you probaly have it 180 degrees out of time. The is only one correct position for the cam, crank and distributor to all be timed correctly when the engine is assembled. Let's assume the engine builder did it right, but the engine was turned over by hand after it was assembled, probably when they installed the fan & alterntor belt.
The firing order is 1-3-4-2. That means whenever TDC comes up to the timing mark/pointer, the rotor will either be pointing to #1 or #4 cylinder (and no others). Switch the distributor drive gear back to where it was when you got he engine and then set the static timing of the distributor. I bet it will probably start right up. I once had a similar problem with a 1960 Alfa Romeo Gielietta. The PO's previous mechanic had installed the distributor shaft drive gear wrong by 180 degress and then moved all the plug wires on the cap by 180 degress to make it run, instead of tearing the engine down to install the distributor shaft drive gear correctly. There is a reason the distributor shaft drive has a gear at one end and an offset "notch" at the other.

1-4-3-2. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)

[jdlmodelt]

I thought these distributors had a slot that only permits you to install the distributor drive in the right possition, in which case you have to change the timing by rotating the spark plug wires by 180 degrees clockwise or counter clockwise, either way ends up in the same place.
Also, check for spark while you are at it.

[Jeffs9146]

Lennies914 and I had the same problem, it turned out to be the injection trigger points in the dizzy were sticking! We opened up the dizzy, replaced the trigger plate and it started right up!

[Tom]

If you changed the distributer 180 degrees, change the spark plug wires accordingly.
Tom

[kkid]

If you have a dwell meter hook it up and measure the dwell while turning it over. Should be 45-47.

You said that the fuel presure drops after cranking, does it go to about 0 shortly after you turn the key off?

I haven't set the dwell but point gap. Fuel pressure drops down to 20psi and it holds there for a long time. I still see 10psi next morning.

[kkid]

I'm putting my money on the distributor drive gear is misaligned/improperly located. If the timing is close and you have fuel and spark, it should at least cough...

I smell fish here too.

[kkid]

Fuel lines at fuel rails are crossed?

I did that when I took the engine out last time. I checked the lines from the tank to injectors few times already. But I might have to triple check at least in the engine compartment.

Thanks,