My new 2.0 won't start, Need help!! Options

[kkid]

The zero on your fan is tdc. That and the notch in the distributor body that the rotor points to is correct. The timing for a djet is at the 27* mark on the fan like Euro's pic shows. Never 34 with djet.

Try pouring more than "just a little" fuel in the manifold then crank it again. If you have fire at the plugs, and fuel in the manifold, it should start.

Now my gas tank is out and the 2 fuel lines are hanging in the trunk(plugged with paper towel). Everything else is connected. Can I still try your method with more than "just a little" fuel? Maybe I should take the fuel pump relay out and try this again? Can I pour it from TB with the butterfly closed or direct into the plenum?

I can try now but hope the battery is still strong enough to start it.

Thanks for help,

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

Please be outside when trying this and have an extinguisher handy. Safety always with gasoline.

[kkid]

Please be outside when trying this and have an extinguisher handy. Safety always with gasoline.

Thanks for the heads-up!

So I tried but she doesn't wanna wake up still.

Should I pour more gas????

Plugs smell gas maybe from previous attempts...

There're some carbon on the plug electrodes that I can see.

BTW, is our injector polarity-sensitive???

Thanks,

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[kkid]

Check the ground wire on the points plate in the dizzy to make sure it's got good connection; engine will not fire if it's bad.
And double check your CHT connection to make sure it's tightly connected at the wiring harness. I've had both of those little dumb things happen to me in the past and it took me too long to figure them out.....

The wire on the dizzy plates is good(new plates).
Double checked the CHT connection and confirmed good and tight.

Prior to this engine installation I swapped the ECU and CHT from my car to this unit because the D-jet components that came with the motor were mixed up with '73 and '74.

The MPS was for '74(never been opened with rivets still intact, tested and holds vacuum with no leak). But the ECU was for '73 and CHT was for 1.7. There was no ballast resistor.

Anyways, the CHT and ECU are from a running car.


Thanks,

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[kkid]

Should I check the compression on the engine with new rings?

[kkid]

It looks like I should abort the fuel tank cleaning until we discover the problems(s).

gotta take my daughter to dentist...

Have a great day(night), guys!

Thanks,

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Jeffs9146]

Maybe the harness wiring is different from 73 to 74 and doesn't match the 74 ECU!??

[hot_shoe914]

Maybe the harness wiring is different from 73 to 74 and doesn't match the 74 ECU!??

The motor is from a '73.

[Jeffs9146]

Maybe the po swapped the harness and the other stuff to try to make it work. A 74 harness with 74 ECU.....? Now you may have a 74 harness with 73 ECU....just saying..... I don't know if they are different but I have changed the pin out on an early 1.7l harness to match the 2.0L later car! When I swapped the engines!

[kkid]

Maybe the po swapped the harness and the other stuff to try to make it work. A 74 harness with 74 ECU.....? Now you may have a 74 harness with 73 ECU....just saying..... I don't know if they are different but I have changed the pin out on an early 1.7l harness to match the 2.0L later car! When I swapped the engines!

Sorry about the confusions. I've just swapped the '73 harness to '74's. Now the motor has '74 D-jet parts from head to toe except the TB w/2 ports. Let's see if we see any changes...

Will pick up my gas tank from my local radiator shop this afternoon.

Hoping to install the tank either today or tomorrow to see if she wants to wake up this time.

Thanks,

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[hot_shoe914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[kkid]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Hey shoe!

Thanks for dropping by.

Soon we will (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[David_S]

Man .... I keep reading through this post and it still sounds like it is an ignition timing issue. I will soon be stabbing my distributor back in and I really hope that I dont have the hell that you have had !! I still think that if you pour fuel into the intake, you should have some kind of a reaction out of either the intake or the exhaust. It may be a backfire, but you should get some kind of reaction. If you dont get any reaction, then I would think that the timing is way out of whack. If it is crank/cam timing, then your compression would be off. If it is ignition timing, then your engine could be firing with the piston at the bottom of the stroke and you would get no reaction. I was doing some research for when I get ready for my engine, and I stumbled across this article. The second half had (in my opinion) more information for starting off than the first half. I hope it helps you out, and this problem is solved soon !!!!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm

[Triaddave]

I just got the 74/2.0 going last night. the problem was the injectors were not getting spark. tested with 4-nobs lights. the hot lead was disconnected...fixed that and it fired up. you can check the injectors with 3 volts (2 1.5 AA batterys taped together), listen for the "click". test each one and also check for ground at each one. then check the harness for current usuing the light(s). Then track back to trigger points and power...

[kkid]

Man .... I keep reading through this post and it still sounds like it is an ignition timing issue. I will soon be stabbing my distributor back in and I really hope that I dont have the hell that you have had !! I still think that if you pour fuel into the intake, you should have some kind of a reaction out of either the intake or the exhaust. It may be a backfire, but you should get some kind of reaction. If you dont get any reaction, then I would think that the timing is way out of whack. If it is crank/cam timing, then your compression would be off. If it is ignition timing, then your engine could be firing with the piston at the bottom of the stroke and you would get no reaction. I was doing some research for when I get ready for my engine, and I stumbled across this article. The second half had (in my opinion) more information for starting off than the first half. I hope it helps you out, and this problem is solved soon !!!!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm

Thanks for the link and advice. Will double check that as well.
You shouldn't have that kind of problems. I think I have a special case(engine). Never have a problem like this before.

Good luck on yours and Merry Christmas (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wreath.gif) !

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[kkid]

I just got the 74/2.0 going last night. the problem was the injectors were not getting spark. tested with 4-nobs lights. the hot lead was disconnected...fixed that and it fired up. you can check the injectors with 3 volts (2 1.5 AA batterys taped together), listen for the "click". test each one and also check for ground at each one. then check the harness for current usuing the light(s). Then track back to trigger points and power...

Thanks for the idea of checking on the injectors. I think mines are good since they're from running car(who knows when the last the ones came with the motor were actually used).

Hope yours will run as it should and have no problems like mine.

Merry Christmas! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wreath.gif)

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[kkid]

Merry Christmas to all!

My engine now squeals like a big when turned. Thought it's a belt. So I removed the belt then turned the motor by hands. It still squeaks when the crank shaft goes up to little before TDC for either #1 or #3. It might be a fan that is touching the fan shroud. Because I removed it once to replace the seal(the builder did not change it!). I can check it by removing the fan and turn the crank the shaft by hands to see if it still makes noise. Maybe I can try to remove the impeller fan with the motor in the car. Will see....

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[kkid]

Update with news

Good: I am on the road again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Damn it! How fun the car is!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

Bad: Still running with the old motor! Damn it!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Don't tell my wife about it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)



Yes, I pulled the new motor out and put the old one back in there. That's the only way to get the car running at this point and started right up as usual.

The new motor still squeals (by hand rotations) even if it's out of the car, even with/without the fan. The internal noise seems to come out from of the case or between the case and head area. I now realized it cranked with the starter slower than normal. Will post the piggy squeal on youtube later.

This is what I did or changed/installed on the new motor(maybe more but as far as I remember).

1. New crankshaft seals f/r
2. New injector seals
3. Valve adjustment
4. Adjusted the end play and shimmed to the spec
5. New plugs
6. New ignition wires
7. New ignition points
8. New ignition condenser
9. Changed passenger side and corner engine sheet metals(motor came with sheet metal with holes for a/c compressor)
10. Changed hardware for alternator bracket
11. New fuel filter
12. Stainless fuel lines from Tangerine Racing
13. New fuel hoses
14. Rotated the dizzy drive gear to get a correct alignment
15. Static timing
16. New oil and filter
17. Primed the oil system prior to the starting
18. Recharged battery
19. New dizzy cap
20. New exhaust studs(6 out of 8) on the heads - the motor came with heat exchangers installed but 5 nuts were rusted and unable to loosen so had to take the nuts and studs all together then installed new ones. 1 stud was loose and looked to be glued with an epoxy like a JB weld!
21. Cleaned gas tank then installed a new sock and hoses underneath
22. Newer clutch assembly from other motor(less than 10k miles)
23. Alternator seal(rubber spacer)
24. Stainless engine sheet metal screws from 914rubber.com
25. Terry's accelerator cable
26. added TDC(white) and timing(red) marks on the other edge of the cooling fan
27. New seal and washers on taco plate
28. Readjusted fuel pressure @ 29PSI+ with a gauge
29. New intake runner hoses
30. Disconnected cold start valve fuel hose for fuel pressure gauge
31. don't remember...

My advice --- Don't buy a motor that has never been fired up or tested. It may not run like mine. Even if it's rebuilt it may not run specially if it's a resale item that a seller has no idea how it's built. Buy an engine that is still on a car or with a recent bench test result.

Now what should I do with the motor? Should I take it to Mark to examine? Well, my time and money were well spent for this phase.

I believe the seller won't take it back after we found out it has a failure. So I will tear it down to find out the problem and rebuild myself.
My journey will begin.

Thanks for reading.

Have a great day!

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[kkid]

Hey guys!

Spring is here. So I started working on my poor motor today.

Someone gave me a suggestion that the squeak noise maybe caused by a dropped dizzy drive gear washer in the case.

So I took the gear out to see if the washer is still with it. Yep, the washer came out with no problem. It wasn't dropped in this case. Does the gear look OK for you guys?



I also tuned the flywheel a few cycles by hand again. It's not hard to turn with the all spark plugs removed. But there is a noticeable hardness at a point in the revolution. Somehow the squeak noise seems to have disappeared today.

Where should I go from here?

kkid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[stugray]

A squeal sounds like the fan is rubbing the housing.