Mark's ADHD/ADD/DWD 3.0 /6 conversion thread, Woohoo! It runs awesome, but it's never done.... Options

[Mark Henry]

Hey. Mark,

Can you rebuild a Toyota motor?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mellow.gif)

What did you do to my car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

or are you talking aboot the TuRD.....

[balljoint]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Of course I was talking about the Kitty TuRD.

Any other Toyota I had recently won acquired would be a long way from needing a refresh.

Kitty is pushing 350k. No sign of issue now, but down the road...

[Mark Henry]

The TuRD engine will last the life of the truck, but if it was to crap out yes I could rebuild it.
But it would be way cheaper to get a Japanese market engine. They sell your engine, low miles, complete for something like $1500 in Toronto.

[Mark Henry]

Ok, geting my process down, this is a complete 911 engine bearing job ready for the oven.
It all about prep.

I'm thinking of offering this as a service, if I do I need a couple of better low pressure regulators.

[r_towle]

Just curious.
Why are you doing this to the bearings?
Mine have lasted 250k already in my 911, and as we have seen above, the TuRd has lasted even longer.

Pistons i understand.

What is the benefit to doing this to the bearings?

Maybe a link or search term to read up would help.....

[Mark Henry]

So you have looked at your bearings?
You haven't torn down the number of engines I have, the wear is often quite a bit more than you realize.
My engine had less miles on it than yours and it was out of an automatic, all the bearings (except#8) were shot and the nikasil cylinders were totally out of spec. Yet it was still a running engine.

Every bit helps even if this coating just lasts for break-in it's does its job. It also adds up to .0005 and seeing as this is a used standard crank (like most at the lower end of the spec) that may be a good thing. After baking the coating is quite durable, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner and acetone don't seem to harm it. Took a bit of effort to sand through it.
The piston skirts, well Mahle has been graphite coating them for years.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant

The ceramic coatings I'll be doing are to help with heat disbursement much like header coatings, I think most would agree any help in this area is a good thing.

Also a buddy wanted to try this stuff so all the material is free to me to try. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[McMark]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I agree with both sides of that argument. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

It's not a bad thing to do (assuming it doesn't flake or gall, etc) and Mark's reasoning is totally legit. But I wouldn't pull apart an engine to install it.

But since it was free, I would have done the same thing. Experimentation time! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)

[Mark Henry]

I understand most flaking issues have been due to poor preparation or applying to much product. This process is all about prep and the labor is all in the prep. The spraying and baking is the easy part.

On the other side of the coin I have torn down engines and been very tempted to reuse bearings. In fact I have done this on my own engines many times with good results. But these bearings look ugly, not that they are out of spec, they are just stained. Coating these may offer a cost effective option.

Look at these bearings before and after, they are within spec.

[Mark Henry]

How about these ones? These are 3.2-3.6 bearings, worth $160 new.
I've reprocessed the far right one, it is the worst one of the set. You could barely catch a a fingernail on the scratch in the center. The scratches on the other bearings you can't catch a finger nail on.
BTW these have about 30,000 miles on them.
If someone want's me to finish up the rest of the set I'd give a good deal on these.

[Mark Henry]

Waiting to get my stuff back from the balance shop so I thought I'd mess with the wiring today.

I haven't got a connector and being a cheap ass I can't see paying $50 for just a connector, let alone seeing as I'm in Canada, the dollar, duty, taxes and and stupid expensive shipping the freaking thing might cost me almost $100 in my hand. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
Fuch that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

So what to do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ...... don't want a hack (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I have spares, and I have a relay board main harness connector (and an engine harness) so I took it apart and figured I had to flip and reverse the wires to line up.

That wasn't to bad...but I end up with 2 female connectors (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) damn!

[Mark Henry]

Didn't really want to make 14 little pins. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

So I have a whole pail of 911 relays and they have pins that fit, so I broke them out and found the other end is a bit too big.
That's better than being too small (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mark Henry]

So I turned them down on my mini model lathe. I left a bit of a press fit.

[Mark Henry]

I think this is going to work out just fine.
I wonder if a drop of loctite on the engine harness end would be ok on the pins?

I could snap it up now, but I'll wait till I get some longer red primary wire, these ones are cut a bit short. Why have a splice when you don't have to have one.

Note the top pic only shows one pin installed, almost every hole has a pin pressed in the final male connector.
Also I screwed up the first wiring attempt, as everything is backwards on the engine harness male connector, because that connector is flipped 180* from normal.

[Mark Henry]

I used this diagram to figure this out...I wonder if I need both reds?

Min'es a carbed 3.0 so I just worked from the left side of the diagram.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1536-1292045491_thumb.jpg)

[Justinp71]

Not sure about the 2 reds, I can take a look at mine tonight.

Also keep in mind I think the 3.2 has an internal regulated alternator, where as I think the 3.0 does not?

[Luke M]

Not sure about the 2 reds, I can take a look at mine tonight.

Also keep in mind I think the 3.2 has an internal regulated alternator, where as I think the 3.0 does not?

My brothers 3.0 has an internal regulator and IIRC it started on the later 2.7 engines on up.

[Mark Henry]

I don't think I have an internal regulator, I know for sure I'm using a fan assembly from a 2.7, I also have one from a 2.0 but that's a lower amp alternator.

I'll have to figure out were to mount a regulator.

I also have to figure out the rear window defogger, but I think it just needs a fused power and a ground.

[Mark Henry]

This evening I decided to look at my exhaust ports, a few studs needed some work.

This one is snapped off so I made a drill bushing and went to work on it. I made my own drill bushing but you can buy these. It's very important that you drill down the center of the stud.

[Mark Henry]

Then you have to dig out any left over bits of the steel stud. This is real important, if you don't your repair is going to suck balls.
Drilling centered is the key, if you did that right digging these last bits of steel out should be fairly easy.
Just a little patience...

[Mark Henry]

OK that's done time for the repair...or I should say lets Time-sert the repair (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)