Mark's ADHD/ADD/DWD 3.0 /6 conversion thread, Woohoo! It runs awesome, but it's never done.... Options

[Mark Henry]

Just flying today....not bad from a guy on perc's for kidney stones who also nursing a sore shoulder from wiping out on the ski hill on Sunday...

Time to put my cam tower spray bars back in, if you go back in the thread you will see me taking them out for cleaning.

Many peep's don't recommend bead blasting the towers but I did. I then blew out and power washed them 3 separate times just to be sure no beads were left behind.

As you re-install the bars you have to be super careful of the orientation. Both bars are the same but one goes in backwards of the other. When you get it to the proper spot you use a screwdriver to center the hole and the rear bolt has a tit on it the goes into the hole on the bar. Then a bit of Loctite on the 1/8" NPT plugs and your done. Very important that you tapped the plugs deep enough, you don't want to over tighten the plugs.

Since I'm not ready for these yet I bagged them to keep them clean.

[mrbubblehead]

I had to Time-Sert a few of my exhaust studs now for another stud repair, this time the case. The one bell-housing mounting stud hole had a very sketchy helicoil repair. They didn't even drill the stud right out, plus it was only helicoiled in about a half inch. This would possibly be "OK" as a dirty repair, but I have to hang this half out on the engine stand for the build....not cool. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

So I didn't want to buy another timesert kit, a regular Time-Sert wouldn't work anyways because it's been helicoiled, it would need a Big-Sert.
But I do have lots of 10mm VW case savers. These ones have an odd coarse standard outer thread and I didn't have a tap, so I got one from China, $10 delivered to my door.
This doesn't show the 3/4 hour spent yanking the helicoil, drilling out the rest of the old stud and tapping for the case saver but you get the idea....
Note the homemade insert driver. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I think this is a good solution and I'm confident hanging my build from it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

that is a great idea.

[Mark Henry]

First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.
My case is now clean and bagged ready for assembly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Mark Henry]

Ooooooppppps!!!!! Don't forget the main secret stud! that would really fuch my day if I forgot that one.

[Mark Henry]

Not part of the build... but so slick I had to show this... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

BTW These are not my heads, not my twin plug work, I'd never break the fins like this, to me breaking the fins is shoddy machine prep, but it's what the customer had. I just added this to show a Timesert plug hole repair.

[mrbubblehead]

mark, is that a "big" sert? 14mm?

[Mark Henry]

mark, is that a "big" sert? 14mm?

Time-Sert spark plug repair set (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Big-sert is oversize Time-Serts for repairing oversized holes like old helicoil repairs.

[914Timo]

First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.

Very nice, but is there some reason why you removed them in the first place ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[Mark Henry]

First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.

Very nice, but is there some reason why you removed them in the first place ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Well.... it was for sure easier to clean it this way, but the real reason is when I bought this core it was already torn down and every stud including the head and case studs were removed by the PO.
It all came in well labeled baggies.

[Mark Henry]

Starting to get my ducks in a row for the bottom end build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Just a few last bits, first the oil pump, one thing I didn't like about Wayne's book was the lack of information on certain parts like the oil pump. His book the pump is voodoo and shouldn't be taken apart...I call BS on that.
I took it apart and with a straight edge found it to have .008 clearance on each side...just a bit sloppy IMHO

[Mark Henry]

It also had a bunch of minor scratches, so first order of business was to treat the interior with DFL (dry film lube) coating.

[Mark Henry]

Then using sandpaper and a flat glass I faced the surface till I had .002 -.003 clearance I only took about .012 off the total length of the pump.
I also honed any rough edges on the gears before reassembly.

Then I put it back together, tightening each nut a half turn at a time and constantly making sure it spun freely. Once done I primed it with a bit of assembly grease.

[Mark Henry]

Next I cleaned out the intermediate shaft.
It has a circlip and little plug in the end. It came out easy and then I just used a bottle brush to clean it out. You wouldn't the sludge that came out of this, if you ever rebuild a /6 you have to do this job.

[Mark Henry]

Didn't get a whole lot done today, but I did make some tools.

First up is P221 and P222, these will hold the rods and chain up as I place the engine case halves together.

[Mark Henry]

Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.

Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.

[Mark Henry]

This one I don't have finished yet, I still have make the plundger.
It going to be a piston circlip injector.

[mrbubblehead]

Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.

Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.

mark, how do you feel about a few wraps of black tape over the threads and a dab of DOW 55 as lube to slide the o-ring down the stud? would that be sufficient if your tool wasnt available?

[Mark Henry]

Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.

Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.

mark, how do you feel about a few wraps of black tape over the threads and a dab of DOW 55 as lube to slide the o-ring down the stud? would that be sufficient if your tool wasnt available?

It will work but depending on what you are using for sealants you may be pressed for time. One of the sealants I'll be using is threebond so I have to be finishing the torque in 30 minutes. This tool will speed up the install of the Orings.

I will be using Dow 55 on the Orings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Qarl]

My OCD tendancies love your attention to detail!

[Mark Henry]

Shit about to get real (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)