Mark's ADHD/ADD/DWD 3.0 /6 conversion thread, Woohoo! It runs awesome, but it's never done.... Options

[Mark Henry]

Making great progress Mark!

I always wondered how long those plastic chain guides last, but I guess there is no real contact with them and they are only there so they don't move when the car goes over bumps?

Thanks Walter and Glenn

I've torn down several engines and have never seen an issue with the plastic chain ramps. I say they have contact, they sort of have a zero load, they just barely contact the chain. The "load" is on the sprockets. It's recommended to replace them during a rebuild and they don't cost much. These ones are of course new.

[peteyd]

A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.

End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.

I like your thinking outside the box Mark. Very ingenious!

[Mark Henry]

A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.

End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.

I like your thinking outside the box Mark. Very ingenious!

Thanks Pete

It did take a bit of head scratching for sure. The thing I was quite impressed with was the real Dremel stones, doing a heavy cut like that I was expecting to have issues with the corners rounding over.
That's why I bought 8 stones. They surprisingly stayed quite sharp.

The quality of the real Dremel stones are evident as that die grinder (air) is rated at 30,000rpm and lesser 1/8"shafts bend like a pretzel at that rpm.

[Mark Henry]

Been a while since I have posted, but I have been making progress. It just in to test fit a few things and to tack in the mount.

[Mark Henry]

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[Mark Henry]

Quicky cradle I made for my scissor table before I took it off the stand, works real good and keeps the engine stable

[Mark Henry]

I also have mounted the McMarks Free-Motion front A arm kit that I bought off Rick.
Here you see the fresh bead blasted arms and the bearing sleeves. the sleeves are a barely a slip fit, I measured .003". I used loctite 620 to fix them in place, this loctite is actually made for this purpose.

Not shown is I then PPG epoxy primed the arms and parts and then finished with Nason black. It spray paint but I just used a brush, I don't really care if there are brush marks.

[Mark Henry]

I never like the seals on this kit, they are just O-rings, so I'm doing some experimenting.
One is this I use the thick 911 oil tube O-ring and a slightly modified crank timing gear snap ring. Bit tight as the o-ring is a bit small on the ID, but I think it will work good.

2nd I put a beetle upper front torsion arm seal in backwards, used a bead of RTV and it closed up the gap on the bear bering very nicely.

3rd I used the heat tube grommets from a beetle to seal the thrust bearings.

[Mark Henry]

The finished A arm rebuild, now it's time for struts.

You can also see I have added a stock sway bar, my base 1.8 didn't have swaybars. I think the sway bar drop links are too long (WTF?), so I'll wait till I get the ride height sorted before I shorten them up a bit.

Note I've since replaced the stock bar with a Tarett 22mm hollow bar.

[Mark Henry]

Struts are ready to go but I have to wait till I have wheels, got to keep it rolling.

[MrHyde]

Lookin good Mark... We're going to have to get a Orange 914 Ontario meet going this spring/summer... :-)

[Mark Henry]

Trying to get my ass back in gear and get this done for June. Want to spend at least a couple hours per day on it or the next 6 weeks, If I can it's a doable goal.

The bracket I made to mount the MSD in the stock location.

[Mark Henry]

My starter, Ford solenoid and backup light switch wiring.

[Mark Henry]

My trans mount cable/carb linkage, bit of overkill but it works good.

[Mark Henry]

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.

[Mark Henry]

Just have to figure out the other side for regulator, battery and the MSD hook-up. I don't want to cut the MSD wires so I'll loop them and tuck them away hidden behind the battery.

[6freak]

My trans mount cable/carb linkage, bit of overkill but it works good.

put the PMO fuel rails on there and loose 4 possible leaks...good luck looks great
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[raynekat]

Mark, where did you get the sheath for the harness? Everything is looking great on your build.

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.

[Mark Henry]

Mark, where did you get the sheath for the harness? Everything is looking great on your build.

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.

The stuff I used is just the cheap generic Expandable Braided Sleeve, the rest of my harness done in heat shrink tubing and factory hard tube. I got it from Princess Auto, the Canadian version of Harbor Freight.

I found this place in the states that sells some real cool stuff.

http://www.electriduct.com/Braided-Sleevin...BraidedSleeving

[wndsnd]

Making good progress Mark. Looks great.

John