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> Discharge of Battery, drawing 1.97 amp but can't find where
smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 03:43 PM
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-I am getting a constant discharge on my battery
-I wired my meter in series between positive cable and the positive post on battery (when battery is fully charged)
-it shows draw of 1.97 amps
-have a 1975 with 66k miles and most everything stock from what I can tell
-I have taken the troubleshooting as far as I can and now stumped
-in the picture if you see the two red wires crimped on one terminal that is where my draw is coming from
-thought that went to relay board, so I have unplugged all (3) of my relays, both fused, voltage regulator and 3-wire plug going to alternator, still can't get rid of the draw
-anyone know where those two wires go? or has anyone seen this before?

thanks,


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904svo
post Apr 13 2014, 03:48 PM
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those red wires go to the fuse panel
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 03:50 PM
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I pulled each fuse one at a time from under the dash, didn't change, think I'm getting a short from wire up to the panel somewhere then?
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 03:52 PM
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sorry should have stated the two red wires with yellow tape are the exact ones causing the issue
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bulitt
post Apr 13 2014, 03:52 PM
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Pull your fuses one at a time until the draw stops then you can isolate the circuit. Also possibly a bad diode in the alternator.
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messix
post Apr 13 2014, 03:59 PM
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unplug the voltage regulator on the relay board. if the draw stops then you have most likely a bad alternator rectifier.
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 04:02 PM
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-pulled fuses one at a time, nothing changed
-unplugged regulator from the relay board, nothing changed

-still drew 1.97amps with each fuse disconnected or any relay or the regulator (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Apr 13 2014, 04:21 PM
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Since you checked the fuses individually, and the regulator, it sounds like you have a shorted wire. Almost 2A is not a small amount of current and a short to ground would explain this. Check the wires that are the cause for a short to ground. Disconnect both ends. to do this.
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 04:27 PM
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the wires go down under/thru tins it appears, any clue where the other ends are to check?
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Dr Evil
post Apr 13 2014, 04:47 PM
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Not without my book and some time. You have to trace them out as they are all red and some go forward to the fuse panel and one will go to the alternator (at least). I am going from memory here so verify.
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76-914
post Apr 13 2014, 04:51 PM
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2 reds go to the 14 pin plug on the relay board #12 & #14. The other 2 go to the cabin. I don't have a sch with me but one goes to the fuse panel and IIRC the other to the column.
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 04:52 PM
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great thanks I'll start looking, they both start off in a common sleeve and then I can't tell where they go, I looked from top, see where they go but then can't find them back when I look from underneath
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Dr Evil
post Apr 13 2014, 04:55 PM
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Good thing I refreshed my screen....I almost typed exactly what 76-914 did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The other two go to column and fuse panel, verified.

Pull the 14pin plug and see what happens to draw. You will shorten 2 of the 4 from the equation.

Do all 4 draw current, or only one? I am unclear of this. Once you find the one that does draw, you can see if it is pin 12, 14, in to fuse panel, or the switch in the column. Pull the plug on the column switch, its an easy check, too.
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FourBlades
post Apr 13 2014, 04:56 PM
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When did this start?

Could it be related to something you did or something that happened?

The fuse panel can short against a bolt on the dash, try loosening the bolts holding it on. Someone posted about this lately...

Good luck!

John
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 04:59 PM
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just started 1 week ago, I have only had the car for 3 weeks but was fine for the 1st two
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Dr Evil
post Apr 13 2014, 05:07 PM
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What John mentions is good. If you pull a fuse at a time, it wont effect the short to that bolt as mentioned. Pulling the feed line (big red one) to the fuse panel and then seeing if the draw stops is a quick check for if it is on that end.
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r_towle
post Apr 13 2014, 05:24 PM
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Do you have a stereo? Amp?
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stugray
post Apr 13 2014, 06:25 PM
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Put your multi meter on Ohms and "audible continuity" if you have that setting.
The meter will make a beep when the probes have less than ~10 Ohms between them.
Put the meter + on the red wires and the neg on the battery neg.

The meter should be making a tone showing the red wire has continuity to chassis (shorted).

If the meter does not make the tone, the resistance is to great for the audible to be triggered.
Then you would need someone to watch the meter for you.

Now unscrew the fuse panel under the dash and lower it.
Did the tone go away or resistance change on the meter? if Yes, then you are on to something.

In my 71 the power for the fuse panel came up behind the dash from behind the gas pedal up to a terminal block attached to the chassis.
Check there for shorts and you can disconnect the red wires at that point .

HTH
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Mike Bellis
post Apr 13 2014, 06:30 PM
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One of the red wires goes to the fuse panel. The other goes to the ignition. The ignition wire also powers the headlights. Maybe you have a shorted headlamp switch and a lamp is stuck on somewhere.
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smarens
post Apr 13 2014, 06:44 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 13 2014, 03:24 PM) *

Do you have a stereo? Amp?


stereo yes, no amp
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