Discharge of Battery, drawing 1.97 amp but can't find where Options

[smarens]

Put your multi meter on Ohms and "audible continuity" if you have that setting.
The meter will make a beep when the probes have less than ~10 Ohms between them.
Put the meter + on the red wires and the neg on the battery neg.

The meter should be making a tone showing the red wire has continuity to chassis (shorted).

If the meter does not make the tone, the resistance is to great for the audible to be triggered.
Then you would need someone to watch the meter for you.

Now unscrew the fuse panel under the dash and lower it.
Did the tone go away or resistance change on the meter? if Yes, then you are on to something.

In my 71 the power for the fuse panel came up behind the dash from behind the gas pedal up to a terminal block attached to the chassis.
Check there for shorts and you can disconnect the red wires at that point .

HTH

great suggestion, will try hopefully tomorrow night

[smarens]

2 reds go to the 14 pin plug on the relay board #12 & #14. The other 2 go to the cabin. I don't have a sch with me but one goes to the fuse panel and IIRC the other to the column.

you and DrEvil thinking alike, I will try this for sure

[smarens]

One of the red wires goes to the fuse panel. The other goes to the ignition. The ignition wire also powers the headlights. Maybe you have a shorted headlamp switch and a lamp is stuck on somewhere.

great tip, will hopefully be able to find time tomorrow night to look at it, I'm sure one of you guys have it, thanks again for all the help, and please let me know if you think of anything else

[Tom]

Your picture shows the red wires giving the current draw. One looks to be a 2.5mm red wire and the other is a 4.0mm red wire. The 2,5 goes to the relay board and the 4.0 goes to either the fuse panel at fuse 10/11/12, ( they are all tied together on the hot side).
To find out which one it is, disconnect the battery and just use a jumper to ground the fuse panel at 10/11/12 and then read with the meter from ground to the two red wires. If you are reading continuity, that is the wire. If no continuity, the wire goes to the ignition switch at terminal 30. As has been posted, disconnect the plug at the switch and see if the draw goes away. If it does, you have a bad ignition switch. If it doesn't, then you have some searching between the plug and the battery for the problem. Quite possibly a previous owner modification somewhere on the big red wire. Don't forget to remove the jumper used above!
Tom

[smarens]

thanks guys got it, traced it back to the fuse panel but still couldn't isolate the issue, found the switch that was added as a trunk release (PO put a PORSCHE panel between tail light) was sticking closed, 5 pieces of wires all spliced with wire "wrapped" thru lugs on switch

-ripped it all out, rewired and added momentary contact switch, much better

thank you guys for helping me find, electrical is actually one of my better strengths but don't think I have ever had to go thru isolating a circuit that way but was easy with good explanation from you guys (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[JStroud]

It's always the last place you look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)