Another rear main seal question |
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Another rear main seal question |
rjames |
Sep 14 2014, 01:52 AM
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#1
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,158 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
After reading countless threads for the correct way to install the rear main seal I've found contradicting info and need some guidance.
Question #1: There seems to be a consensus that only engine oil should be used on the seal. Makes sense. but I've read posts from Jake where he has said to oil both the inner and outer surfaces and another post where he states NOT to oil the outer diameter of the seal. I of course found the latter info after I oiled the OD of the seal to aid in the install. Should I not have oiled the outer diameter if the seal? #2: I was able to seat the seal recessed. in about 1-2mm of the case before I couldn't get it to go in farther. I don't think it's all the way back against the back if the bore though. Is it in far enough? |
rjames |
Sep 15 2014, 04:30 PM
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#2
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,158 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Anyone?
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DRPHIL914 |
Sep 16 2014, 07:32 AM
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#3
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,810 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
i am by no means an expert here but, i just did this a few months ago. I dont think you have to worry about having lubed the seal if its with oil. I did mine and have had no leakage at all since replacing mine.
Here is a question for you- did you check your crank shaft endplay? i almost missed this a lucky that i did it because it was slightly out of spec and had to change shims to make sure it was in spec,- it should always be measured if you have it torn down to this point. - instructions are on line and in the manual but others can chime in here regarding it, . shims are expensive and some sizes are hard to find. my mechanic sourced them from FAT performance in CA. we measured, shimmed , remeasured- was with in spec, then installed the new RMS, along with new pilot bearing, felt washer etc, flywheel then bolted back on to specs et etc. . anyway i was not going to do all this and my mechanic stopped by my house as i was getting ready to put the transmission back in and asked BTW had i done this? if i did not and then it was out of spec, i could ruin that motor before even driving it 30 miles so i guess its a pretty important thing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Phil *** edit-- well i just saw you had posted a thread back a few weeks ago about shaft endplay - so how did this turn out for you? was it within spec? |
dknechtly |
Sep 16 2014, 07:45 AM
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#4
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Yellow 914 Group: Members Posts: 68 Joined: 11-April 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 560 Region Association: None |
I put mine in dry (no oil, no sealant) and put it even with the case. I put a little oil on the crank surface.
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rjames |
Sep 16 2014, 11:54 AM
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#5
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,158 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Thanks for the replies.
Phil- I did check the end play and it came just within spec. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
DRPHIL914 |
Sep 16 2014, 12:08 PM
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#6
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,810 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
Thanks for the replies. Phil- I did check the end play and it came just within spec. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) thats great!, i had to go to the max on each shim to get it within spec - probably have put about 600-700 miles on it since then, seems to be doing fine, quite a learning process on all of that, but i'm getting pretty good at pulling a transmission, put i hope not to have to do t his again for some time. Hope you are road worthy, |
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