Buyer guide thread |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Buyer guide thread |
eman 928 |
Sep 16 2014, 05:59 PM
Post
#1
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Hi, I am going to look at a 914 to purchase this weekend and this will be my first 914. I'm more familiar with 928's and I am wondering if there is a thread somewhere on 914 world that has information on what to look for when buying a 914. Thanks in advance for your help.
|
Dave_Darling |
Sep 16 2014, 06:35 PM
Post
#2
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,063 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
There is a 914 FAQ on Pelican Parts (see the link in my sig below) that talks about many of the common trouble spots.
I don't know offhand of a thread that has all of the information gathered in one spot, though. The three main things to check for on a 914: - Rust - Rust - Rust These cars love to rust almost as much as 1960s Fiats. Common spots include in front of/under the battery (the "hell hole"), around the jack points, and the right-rear suspension mounting points. Also common but less worrisome are the floor pans, especially the floor under the rear window, and the driver's footwell. Plus bubbles around the sail panel and on the cowl. Fixing rust is time-consuming and if you're paying someone to do the work, quite expensive. Clutches are frequently out of adjustment, leading to worn synchros and grinds when you shift. Brakes are frequently a bit mushy because some bits of the system can be tough to thoroughly bleed. The fuel injection systems are 40+ years old and cranky, like me. The shift linkage is long and has several connections/joints in it that can each add slop to the shifting action. Most of the tops leak, at least a little. Most of the dashboard caps have cracked at some point, but replacements are available. The owners often need tetanus shots due to the RUST, and surgery can be required to remove the immense grin from one's face after driving a nicely-sorted 914 on a twisty road. They're an addiction. Many of us wind up with multiple examples, and even those who escape 914 ownership seem to get dragged back in at some point. After your 928, the 914 will feel like it has absolutely zero power, and zero weight. It will change directions at the drop of a hat, and hang onto the road like it was glued on. It will feel almost infinitely less solid. (The 928s I have driven felt like they were build like bank vaults!) --DD |
turk22 |
Sep 16 2014, 06:37 PM
Post
#3
|
Treetop Flyer Group: Members Posts: 735 Joined: 27-July 12 From: Cincinnati OH Member No.: 14,725 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
|
Johny Blackstain |
Sep 16 2014, 06:42 PM
Post
#4
|
Walnut Elite Stratocaster player Group: Members Posts: 3,434 Joined: 5-December 06 From: The Shenandoah River Member No.: 7,318 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
I agree with Dave completely & would like to ask why are you interested in 914s? Do you want to restore it, drive it, modify it, etc? They are antiques so it's best to think about this in order to save $ down the road. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
SirAndy |
Sep 16 2014, 06:43 PM
Post
#5
|
Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,943 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
The three main things to check for on a 914: - Rust - Rust - Rust (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That's the best advice one can give you. Buy the best 914 you can afford and make triple sure you check for rust. Don't be afraid to poke around with a screwdriver. Solid metal will not be harmed by it but you *will* find all the rusty areas. As a general rule, no matter what the current owner tells you, trust us, there is no such thing as a rust free 914. They all have rust. If someone claims their 914 is rust free they're either lying to you or they haven't found the rust yet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Cuda911 |
Sep 16 2014, 11:53 PM
Post
#6
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,489 Joined: 20-May 14 From: Oceanside (N. San Diego County), CA Member No.: 17,376 Region Association: Southern California |
Read my 914 hunt thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=236672 It should answer most all of your questions. |
eman 928 |
Sep 18 2014, 07:52 AM
Post
#7
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Thanks for all of the input so far. I will defintely look for evidence of rust.
I understand the bumpers on this 75-76, other than their looks, are also quite heavy. Is it hard to convert the bumpers on a 75 to a 73-74? Is there a source of where to buy them? |
eman 928 |
Sep 18 2014, 08:10 AM
Post
#8
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Here are a few pics of the car i'm looking at [attachmentid=467
399 |
eman 928 |
Sep 18 2014, 08:14 AM
Post
#9
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
One more
|
bandjoey |
Sep 18 2014, 08:15 AM
Post
#10
|
bandjoey Group: Members Posts: 4,930 Joined: 26-September 07 From: Bedford Tx Member No.: 8,156 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Unless corrected by an expert (i'm not!) The Carbs look like serious gasket gas leakage - brown stains all down the sides. Figure rebuilds into the price.
experts? is it a danger to drive the car with carb gaskets leaking out? |
eman 928 |
Sep 18 2014, 09:44 AM
Post
#11
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Unless corrected by an expert (i'm not!) The Carbs look like serious gasket gas leakage - brown stains all down the sides. Figure rebuilds into the price. experts? is it a danger to drive the car with carb gaskets leaking out? Thanks, Bill. I might start a new thread about the carbs just in case the experts don't click on this thread. |
brant |
Sep 18 2014, 10:27 AM
Post
#12
|
914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,824 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Pull the rockers before buying any car
|
CptTripps |
Sep 18 2014, 11:38 AM
Post
#13
|
:: Punch and Pie :: Group: Members Posts: 3,584 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Mentor, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Attached image(s) |
eman 928 |
Sep 18 2014, 12:42 PM
Post
#14
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Thanks Doug. I am assuming another place to look for rust? |
bandjoey |
Sep 18 2014, 02:15 PM
Post
#15
|
bandjoey Group: Members Posts: 4,930 Joined: 26-September 07 From: Bedford Tx Member No.: 8,156 Region Association: Southwest Region |
He's pointing under the battery tray aka the hell hole.
|
cn2800 |
Sep 18 2014, 04:24 PM
Post
#16
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 119 Joined: 11-August 14 From: Amarillo, Texas Member No.: 17,766 Region Association: None |
Since I happen to have the engine out for a moment, I can clarify - This photo is taken of the engine compartment from the driver's side, looking right:
You can easily pick out the crusty battery tray. Below it is the inverted square cone of the battery tray support. Just in front of the base of the support (towards the front of the car) you can see a sort of ski slope-looking top of the longitudinal structural member. That's where you need to look. Here it is from above: You can see how this longitudinal member forms a little pit at the bottom with the attached crossmember. There's a drain hole there, but it is easily blocked with leaves or dirt. You get the triple-whammy of water pooling, dirt to hold the water, and all the battery acid/byproduct shenannegoats. It can be a real mess. |
EdwardBlume |
Sep 18 2014, 10:08 PM
Post
#17
|
914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California |
All 914s have rust. Its just a matter of how much and where....
|
914work |
Sep 19 2014, 08:24 AM
Post
#18
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 291 Joined: 9-November 11 Member No.: 13,762 Region Association: None |
Since I happen to have the engine out for a moment, I can clarify - This photo is taken of the engine compartment from the driver's side, looking right: You can easily pick out the crusty battery tray. Below it is the inverted square cone of the battery tray support. Just in front of the base of the support (towards the front of the car) you can see a sort of ski slope-looking top of the longitudinal structural member. That's where you need to look. Here it is from above: You can see how this longitudinal member forms a little pit at the bottom with the attached crossmember. There's a drain hole there, but it is easily blocked with leaves or dirt. You get the triple-whammy of water pooling, dirt to hold the water, and all the battery acid/byproduct shenannegoats. It can be a real mess. Great Pic & description ....AKA "THE HELL HOLE" |
eman 928 |
Sep 19 2014, 11:54 AM
Post
#19
|
Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 10-September 14 From: Oakland, MI Member No.: 17,885 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Pics of trunk
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 26th December 2024 - 10:02 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |