? about 6V Ford Relay Options

[Jeffs9146]

E-Bay Motorcraft Relay

[worn]

Any description of why you want to use a relay to run a relay would be helpful. My willingness to believe is high, my understanding is low.

I joked about this on a previous "how to wire an extra solenoid" thread - nobody got it.

Yes you are using a relay to drive another relay.
The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear to engage AND closes contacts to provide voltage to the starter, so it IS a relay.

The starter Solenoid requires > 8 Amps to drive the mechanism to closure.
The keyed ignition switch is stressed when you turn the key and Arcs when you release it.
This causes premature wear on the ignition contacts.
The current also drops as the wiring ages and the numerous connections in the harness oxidize.

So the solution is to use a secondary relay to provide the ~9 Amps to the solenoid instead of the ignition switch.

These secondary relays only require < 0.5 Amps to engage so wont tear up the ignition contacts as quickly.
And you are not running the ~8 AMPs to the front of the car & back.

Ah, yes. But relays delivering 8 amps are fairly thick on the ground. Are we going for an antique 6 v design to help in the event of low battery?
I am working on getting around to working on adding switch on relays myself. Easier to replace than the switch. Also I got a whole bunch of them surplus. Not necessarily what I need tho.

[worn]

I connected 12V to the Ford relay "S" post (small post) directly from battery (confirmed by test light at post) and got NOTHING --- no clicking, nothing.

Defective relay right out of the box??

Paul

Yes ......... they're made in China. Nuff said?

You could also apply 12 VDC and check for continuity between the large posts with a VOM.

Did that also --- NO continuity. Already have it boxed to send back to the seller.

Anyone know what brand of this type relay is not China made? Or do I need to go to a Ford dealer?

Paul

Try the Ford dealer in bejing. The Chinese only send Junk parts to other countries, and with impunity I might add. They sometimes get lucky and make good parts but those never leave the country. LOL

I am afraid that for the time being (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) . Not always, but so often I have opened a box to find a part not worth the box let alone shipping. Problem is most companies of any size are international.

[Tom]

The solenoid pull-in current is 35 Amps. Hold-in current is 11 Amps.
Haynes manual, page 119, bottom left.
Now you can see why the ignition switch takes such a beating on the contacts.
Tom