Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

2 Pages V < 1 2  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Exhaust stud woes, What's the next step?
mepstein
post Jan 31 2015, 07:11 PM
Post #21


914-6 GT in waiting
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,592
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 31 2015, 08:03 PM) *

"New" exhaust nuts? Good luck finding those. I may have one or two used ones left; I keep finding them as we go through the stuff in the barn. They're Helicoiled on the inside, and should be fine for reuse. ALL the replacement nuts sold by almost everyone are of the locking variety, which were NEVER intended for use in this application.

The Cap'n

Cap'n - What's the proper nut to use and procedure for reinstallation?
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
914Mike
post Jan 31 2015, 11:22 PM
Post #22


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 330
Joined: 27-January 03
From: San Jose, CA
Member No.: 198



I've used brass nuts, never had one get stuck or come loose. Some of the VW exhaust nuts used to have brass threads inside the steel nut, sort of a helicoil, or timesert nut, that's what gave me the idea.

My one remaining type 4 engine has the stock nuts in it with plenty of anti-seize applied during assembly. Wish me luck with the removal that's due because of a copper ring seal leak...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bartlett 914
post Feb 1 2015, 12:21 PM
Post #23


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,216
Joined: 30-August 05
From: South Elgin IL
Member No.: 4,707
Region Association: Upper MidWest



QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 31 2015, 08:03 PM) *

"New" exhaust nuts? Good luck finding those. I may have one or two used ones left; I keep finding them as we go through the stuff in the barn. They're Helicoiled on the inside, and should be fine for reuse. ALL the replacement nuts sold by almost everyone are of the locking variety, which were NEVER intended for use in this application.

The Cap'n

Would you mind showing a pic of the proper nuts? May these can be produced. What about SS nuts
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
stugray
post Feb 1 2015, 01:49 PM
Post #24


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,825
Joined: 17-September 09
From: Longmont, CO
Member No.: 10,819
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Feb 1 2015, 11:21 AM) *

Would you mind showing a pic of the proper nuts? May these can be produced. What about SS nuts


Last time I installed mine I used 8mm "Jis Nuts" from Ace Hardware.
They have a smaller OD so that you can use a smaller socket.
My aftermarket headers dont fit as nice as the stock, so I needed the extra room.

Once I torqued them to spec, I double nutted them.

Oh! ANd excellent job on drilling the stud out.
You clearly DO have the patience and forethought to do it right.
You should keep that drill guide kit handy and offer it to others as this happens to them.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
relentless
post Feb 1 2015, 01:57 PM
Post #25


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 350
Joined: 1-April 07
From: Oregon
Member No.: 7,636



Nice job! I picked up some 8mm copper exhaust flange nuts from Pelican last fall. They were originally for a BMW, but fit fine and were a lot cheaper (.75) than OEM Porsche. I was hooked up by Dave Darling (thanks Dave!):

P/N 18-30-7-620-549-M58

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
pilothyer
post Feb 1 2015, 02:26 PM
Post #26


Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 838
Joined: 21-May 08
From: N. Alabama
Member No.: 9,080
Region Association: South East States



These should work Helicoil Flange Nuts
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ClayPerrine
post Feb 1 2015, 06:25 PM
Post #27


Life's been good to me so far.....
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 15,901
Joined: 11-September 03
From: Hurst, TX.
Member No.: 1,143
Region Association: NineFourteenerVille



I use a Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold nut.

Mercedes part number 6159900050.

They are pre-coated with anti-seize and use a 12mm shouldered construction similar to JIS nuts. Ever since I started using them, I have not had an issue with seizing to the exhaust studs.

Mercedes Exhaust Nut
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ThePaintedMan
post Feb 2 2015, 08:00 AM
Post #28


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,886
Joined: 6-September 11
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Member No.: 13,527
Region Association: South East States



This is one of the most well-thought out and brightest ideas I've seen here for a long time. An example of what can be done with some ingenuity and plenty of forethought and patience. Congratulations on a great job!

Two things:

1) Can we make this a classic thread?
2) Hopefully no one else ever needs to go through the trouble that you did, but just in case, PLEASE hold onto that jig you made up! Someone else might be able to use it someday, or at least copy it for their own use.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mepstein
post Oct 1 2015, 04:06 PM
Post #29


914-6 GT in waiting
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,592
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Stomski makes a tool in a kit with all different adapters to remove broken studs



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Harpo
post Oct 1 2015, 06:15 PM
Post #30


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,304
Joined: 21-August 11
From: Motor City aka Detroit
Member No.: 13,469
Region Association: None



QUOTE(pilothyer @ Feb 1 2015, 12:26 PM) *

These should work Helicoil Flange Nuts


This supplier is one of mine. I will inquire about some samples.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
wndsnd
post Oct 1 2015, 07:39 PM
Post #31


You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat....
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,861
Joined: 12-February 12
From: North Shore, MA
Member No.: 14,124
Region Association: North East States



I am impressed. It sucks working on your back with oil dripping in your eyes.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
913B
post Oct 2 2015, 02:43 PM
Post #32


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 853
Joined: 25-April 05
From: South Bay/SoCal
Member No.: 3,983
Region Association: None



Dang you the MAN, I like your persistence and not give up.

I am subscribing to this thread for future reference.

BTW, how thick was that drill jig have to be ?

Drill bits, was there special drill bits you use/recommend for this job ?
I take it harbor freight ones would NOT do.

Great job !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Ted
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
saigon71
post Oct 3 2015, 04:17 PM
Post #33


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,006
Joined: 1-June 09
From: Dillsburg, PA
Member No.: 10,428
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 1 2015, 06:06 PM) *

Stomski makes a tool in a kit with all different adapters to remove broken studs


The Stomski tool is the bomb. Will it work on 914 heads with oval exhaust port though?

http://www.stomskiracing.com/products/exha...stud-repair-kit

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
saigon71
post Oct 3 2015, 04:22 PM
Post #34


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,006
Joined: 1-June 09
From: Dillsburg, PA
Member No.: 10,428
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(porsche913b_sp @ Oct 2 2015, 04:43 PM) *

Dang you the MAN, I like your persistence and not give up.

I am subscribing to this thread for future reference.

BTW, how thick was that drill jig have to be ?

Drill bits, was there special drill bits you use/recommend for this job ?
I take it harbor freight ones would NOT do.

Great job !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Ted


Thanks Ted. Necessity is the mother of invention. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

My drill jigs are about 3/8" thick. I used a set of Dewalt pilot point drill bits (set was about $20), purchased at Lowes and plenty of lube.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mepstein
post Oct 3 2015, 04:25 PM
Post #35


914-6 GT in waiting
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,592
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



I would think so since there are many different size bushings to space the tool. I just saw this for the first time the other day or I would have given you a heads up sooner. Get it, heads up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Stomski stopped by the shop the other day. Good guy and sure knows his stuff.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ctc911ctc
post Apr 7 2020, 12:26 PM
Post #36


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 933
Joined: 9-June 18
From: boston
Member No.: 22,206
Region Association: North East States



I started replacing all of my studs with the engine in.

After reading this thread (and trying with no luck to remove one) I am going to use the existing studs and the new copper nuts I purchased. This is an engine out head off job.

QUESTION: Exhaust leaks

I took the exhaust apart because of leaks, here are two pictures of Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 4 exhaust ports

Cylinder 3
Attached Image

And Cylinder 4

Attached Image

Seems that 3 is running a bit lean and that 4 is running a bit rich. Also, do the colors on the copper gaskets (new, ran them perhaps 2-3 hours) indicate that they are leaking?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bleyseng
post Apr 7 2020, 03:42 PM
Post #37


Aircooled Baby!
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,036
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Seattle, Washington (for now)
Member No.: 24
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



QUOTE(ctc911ctc @ Apr 7 2020, 11:26 AM) *

I started replacing all of my studs with the engine in.

After reading this thread (and trying with no luck to remove one) I am going to use the existing studs and the new copper nuts I purchased. This is an engine out head off job.

QUESTION: Exhaust leaks

I took the exhaust apart because of leaks, here are two pictures of Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 4 exhaust ports

Cylinder 3
Attached Image

And Cylinder 4

Attached Image

Seems that 3 is running a bit lean and that 4 is running a bit rich. Also, do the colors on the copper gaskets (new, ran them perhaps 2-3 hours) indicate that they are leaking?

Boy now there is a "shelter in place" project waiting to get done. That oil cooler looks plugged and so much dirt on the heads. Drop the engine and tranny and take it apart to clean up everything so it runs cooler as its a air cooled engine.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

2 Pages V < 1 2
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 22nd November 2024 - 10:03 PM