2056 Build, Just starting teardown; some questions Options

[Spoke]

Finally getting into building a 2056 for my 914. Plan is to rebuild one of the two 2L engines I have with 96mm AA P/Cs. For induction, I have D-Jet from one of the 2L engines with a good MPS and set of Weber IDF40s. I would like to stay with FI but will consider using the Webers.

The engine will have ceramic coated SSHE along with a Bursch muffler.

The first engine I bought was advertised as a 2L core with FI. In reality the engine was "cored". There is a hole about 3/8 x 1/2 inch in the case. Looks like the engine was run even with the hole as there is a good amount of dirt+oil on the fins of cylinders 3&4. Also one of the spark plug threads is stripped on cylinder #4. The seller said he would give me a line bored case that he has but I've yet to see it. I bought the engine in Aug of last year so I'm losing hope of getting the case; This ranks up there with one of my worst purchases.







Since the first engine's case was trashed and the seller hasn't come through with the promised replacement case, I purchased a 2nd engine from Brad Mayeur that had been running. This one came with the Webers and likely will be the basis of my engine.

[Spoke]

The gentleman I bought the cored case from came through with a nice clean 2L case which was checked for bore alignment.

[Spoke]

Time for a little detour...

So now I have 2 good cases; internals from 2 engines; one with 96mm pistons; A set of weber dual carbs; a complete D-JET setup including an MPS which holds vacuum.

The detour is I will leave the P/C on the 2nd engine; clean it up; reassemble and see if/how it runs with the carbs. If this engine runs well, I'll dump it in my 914 and use the cleaned case and other internals to take my time and build a 2056 DJET engine.

Here's the current state of the 2nd engine. Degreased the case, cylinders and heads. Reinstalled the heads with new sealing rings. Reinstalled pushrods and pushrod tubes with new o-rings, and adjusted the valves.

Next up is to clean the bottom of the engine, put the oil temp sender from the first engine on this one, put it back together with the carbs and fire it up. If it runs ok I'll put it in the car and work on the other engine at my leisure.

[Montreal914]

Sounds like a good intermediary plan. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Anything to keep your car off the jack stands is good as they tend to get comfortable up there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Han Solo]

Larger intake valves than 2.0L OEM heads?

[Spoke]

Larger intake valves than 2.0L OEM heads?

Can't tell if they're different. I didn't measure them before reassembly.

Here's a question about the taco plate o-ring: Do I install dry, lube with oil, RTV, gasket sealant?

[barefoot]

Unless you're SURE the exhaust valves are new, don't re-use them. The old sodium filled exhaust valves are a time bomb.

This one fell apart as I was pulling them from my 2L heads.

[Java2570]

I used a little Curil K2 on the o ring and also on the gasket surfaces....I'm still in building process so don't know the results of sealing yet. I think on my other engine, I used only oil on the o ring and some forgotten sealer(maybe K2) on the gasket. It didn't ever leak....

[Spoke]

I put the engine back together and got it running this weekend.

Since I didn't know if there were serious issues with the engine (was told it was running at some time), I reinstalled the carbs without adjusting or rebuild, original rotor and cap (it has Pertronix), wires, plugs, timing was as it was when I got the engine.

I purchased a low pressure Mr. Gasket #42S pump and used a generic radiator overflow tank for a gas tank.

12V comes from my 914 using jumper cables. Engine started right up and idles well. Seems to rev pretty well. No oil leaks to speak of.

Questions:
How do I time a carb'ed 2056?

Cylinder #3 occasionally backfirst through the throttle body. What could be causing this?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOC3oVgZlCM

[stugray]

Questions:
How do I time a carb'ed 2056?

Use the TDC mark on the FW thru the access hole in the top of the trans.
With an adjustable timing light, set it to ~30 deg and set it at 3500 RPM.
Your actual timing will vary based on various things (altitude, CR, gas, etc)

Cylinder #3 occasionally backfirst through the throttle body. What could be causing this?

First things to check: Any intake leaks? Check the jets for clogs (main, idle, & accel pump).
Clean out the carb bores in case any of the holes in the side of the barrels are clogged (the ones that get exposed as the throttle plate opens)