Blue Porscheru Conversion, Subaru 2.5 SOHC NA with Suby Tranny Options

[R_u_dd]

Do you guys do the timing belt, and all that goes with it, before the final install of these engines?

See post 23 on page 2. Engine work

[R_u_dd]

Clutch

I decided to go with the Subaru clutch master cylinder. There has been a lot of discussion about clutch travel and which master cylinder to buy. Some guys are going with the civic master cylinder. Some advantages with the Civic are the remote fill reservoir since you can't fit the fill reservoir under the pedals and the firewall. I am still working on plumbing a remove reservoir to the approximate location of the brake fill reservoir. This will take some doing as there are no threads in the master clutch cylinder where the reservoir is mounted.

Having decided on a master cylinder, I built a bracket for under the pedals similar to those who have gone before.

The next mystery is a hose for the clutch line to take the fluid from the master to the slave. You've probably done this before: I went down to the local auto store and sifted through a bunch of brake lines that might fit. I bought 4.8 mm hard lines with 3/8ths ends. I tried them at the store and they seemed to fit... When I brought them home, I noticed they were not quite the right size...

Again, after a lot of time on the net I have learned a bit about hoses. What I should have bought at first was 10mm fittings with 3AN line. 10mm and 3/8 ends will thread together, but won't tightly seal and will probably strip the threads. I found a website for Pegasus Auto and had a line custom made.

So this is the winning formula for the Porscheru Clutch Line:

#3 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Brake/Clutch Hose 10 feet long. (A little extra).
-3 Swaged Hose End. 10 mm Banjo Straight Steel. The 10 mm Banjo fits but is a bit thick. Notice that your Subaru Banjo is fairly narrow.
-3 Swaged Hose End. 3AN Female 90 Degree, Steel.
Male 10 x 1 mm Metric Concave Seat to 3AN Male, Steel. (The concave inside seat is very important). All for about $100.

Clocking is not necessary with the banjo on the far end and the length of line, plus the swivel on the 90. Clocking allows the fittings to be set so that when tightened the line points in a given direction.

Otherwise the closest thing I could find that is not custom would be a Honda Accord clutch line, but they are only 60" long.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1484020871.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1484020871.2.jpg)

[R_u_dd]

Brakes

The plan is to keep the brakes stock. According to Shae, the brakes guru at PMB, stock brakes in good condition work very well. I am going to do a couple minor upgrades with improved brake pads and slotted front rotors. My front right caliper is stuck and possibly others, so the calipers will get rebuilt and the soft lines replaced. The master brake cylinder is being replaced with a 19mm cylinder.

That's the plan and so the adventure in brake repair begins.

Minimum Rotor Thickness 914/4:
Front rotors- new are 11mm or 0.433", Minimum 10mm or 0.394" for turning, and wear to 9.5mm or 0.374". Unfortunately, mine are 0.36" and need to be replaced.

Rear rotors- new 9.6mm or 0.374", after turning min. 8.9mm or 0.350, wear to 8.5mm or 0.335"

Links:

Relentless- Step-by-Step Tutorial for new brakes

Eric Shae Adjusting the Rear Calipers

Eric Shae Rear Caliper Rebuild How-to Thread

Videos:

Front Caliper Rebuild on Bus Part 1 and 2:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLXLKzhA5mY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXqVzsqIRJs



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dm_DnizKOZM



So here's my work. Started with the front calipers. And, learned not to split them before removing the pistons. Lot's of great videos out there on how to do this. There are many creative ways to get the stuck pistons out.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1484033476.1.jpg)

My piston pusher contraption. Using a clutch master to push out the piston. Works pretty well, but put on your goggles and shower cap!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1484033476.2.jpg)

Piston is on the way out. The c-clams with some rubber protecting the bases are covering the holes that transfer fluid from each side of the caliper.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1484033476.3.jpg)

[R_u_dd]

Accelerator Cable

The Subaru engine has two accelerator cables attached that are about two feet long. One is for the cruise control and the other for your foot. The conversion requires a 100" cable to run the length of the car. The closest recycled cable I could find was for a Honda Accord which is too short at 60" long. Most of the custom accelerator cables are not long enough. Finally I came across the Venhill Universal Throttle Cable Kit for $50 bucks. Sold. It's got multiple fasteners and the hard to find barrel end which fits on the Subaru side.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486248370.1.jpg)

Subaru End

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486248371.2.jpg)

Venhill Universal Throttle Kit

[R_u_dd]

Battery and Tray

After considering an Optima battery and an Odyssey, I decided on a plain old sealed lead battery. It's on the small side, so it's not too heavy and it's sealed. This battery is rated at 450/650 amps. The two deciding factors - weight and cost.

The tray was an adventure in design. There are many angles to overcome. Not sure it's worth trying to save money building your own versus the stock tray. I wanted something very sturdy though. It has several attachments points and will be strapped on the backside of the fender.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486265937.1.jpeg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486265937.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486265938.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486265938.4.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1486265938.5.jpeg)

[R_u_dd]

Fuel Pump and Fuel Level Sender


After a lot of research on the fuel pump, I went with the Walbro GSL392 like a couple other guys on the forum. At 140 psi and 255lph, It compares roughly to the Subaru fuel pump specs. The Subaru pump for my 2003 2.5 Impreza TS runs at 80-109 psi. Sometimes the pumps are rated in bars. The conversion is 1 bar =14.5 psi. Interestingly, the Subaru fuel injection system maintains a pressure of 43.5 psi and the return line is used for excess flow above the 43.5 psi.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502074688.1.jpg)

The Subaru has two fuel lines, an intake and return. These lines are 5/16 or 7.9mm. My Porsche has stainless lines that I bought from Tangerine. They are bent to the left where they leave the tunnel to meet the fuel lines on the left side of the Subaru 2.5. I purchased 10' of 5/16 Barricade fuel injection line rated at 225 PSI which is about double the fuel pump pressure.

Cheesy drawing of what's going on.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502168633.1.jpg)

There's three lines that come out of the left side of the engine, two of them are fuel and one is an evaporation line. The return line has a damper valve. The evap line has a light clamp on the fuel line whereas the fuel lines have solid fuel injection clamps. It's tough to find a drawing of these lines, but they are available. I found one at opposedforces.com.

I mounted the fuel pump as low as possible in the frunk with a 20 micron filter in front of it. It is gravity fed with a 3/8" hose inlet (9.5 mm) which matches the Porsche fuel line at the tank. On the outlet side of the fuel pump, I switch over to 5/16" (7.9mm) line.

The relay for the pump is 30 amps and the fuse for the pump is 20 amps. Go figure.

My VDO fuel gauge is rated at 10-184 ohms which was a bit of a problem since I bought that first and most of the aftermarket fuel senders are rated at 240-30 ohms, especially the fuel level senders in tube form. The porsche sender is rated at 0-70 and mine is broken. The solution was an $18 swing arm float that needed to be trimmed and shortened, but it worked...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502074689.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502074690.3.jpg)

[R_u_dd]

Brakes Part II

Brakes are important. If you can't stop, it's an unsafe situation. Based on discussions on this forum, especially contributions from PMB, I thought it best to restore the stock brakes as well as possible and keep the four bolt pattern for now. I sent the rear brakes and the pressure valve to PMB to restore and did the fronts myself since they were not as complicated. Here's the great work done by the folks at PMB:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159479.1.jpg)

Parts:::

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159480.2.jpg)

More Parts Pix:::

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159480.3.jpg)

In order to get the rear hubs out and replace the bearings I used a pusher of my own construction with a large bolt and socket that was the same diameter as the hub. From this picture you can see my setup fairly well. There's another nut on the inside of the socket to keep it from sliding when you pound on the hammer. My hubs were tight, so I used a sledge hammer to coax them out. A long handled sledge is much safer if your car is on jack stands!!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159481.4.jpg)

Here's a shot of the inside:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159481.5.jpg)

Here's a shot of the outside:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159481.6.jpg)

And, the hubs while they are out. Good time to do a five lug conversion, but I am going to wait on that for a while...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502167854.1.jpg)

Front brakes installed. New disks and braided brake lines. My old ones were rotten.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159483.7.jpg)

Rear brakes and new disks all around.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vgy.me-17072-1502159483.8.jpg)

Purdy hah!!

[R_u_dd]

The Successful Startup

Last year, we started the engine and it ran for about 30 seconds and threw a bearing. It was apparently rebuilt improperly by the PO. So, I dropped the engine out and brought it to a Subaru specialist in Grants Pass and had it rebuilt. It now has new internals, rings, bearings, seals, Delta cams - torque grind. The block is out of a forester, with heads from the original Impreza TS.

Pull the engine again:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785938.1.jpg)

Back from the shop

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.4.jpg)
Alternator back on:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.5.jpg)

Ready to join the engine to the transmission again.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.6.jpg)

Happily married back together with new starter:


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.7.jpg)


Startup Videos:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM7ynOv9gSo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPOpW-Pmfso



What if feels like to have the car finally running:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5MYYolzmT0


There's still a little rain on the parade though. Anyone have advice for a subaru clutch not disengaging. I've got the Subaru master and slave cylinders. The throwout fork seems to be moving about an inch or so. I hope I don't have to tear this bugger apart again, but I'm not currently able to shift it into gear while the car is running, but I am able to shift it while its off.

[76-914]

The Successful Startup

Last year, we started the engine and it ran for about 30 seconds and threw a bearing. It was apparently rebuilt improperly by the PO. So, I dropped the engine out and brought it to a Subaru specialist in Grants Pass and had it rebuilt. It now has new internals, rings, bearings, seals, Delta cams - torque grind. The block is out of a forester, with heads from the original Impreza TS.

Pull the engine again:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785938.1.jpg)

Back from the shop

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.4.jpg)
Alternator back on:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.5.jpg)

Ready to join the engine to the transmission again.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.6.jpg)

Happily married back together with new starter:


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-17072-1560785939.7.jpg)


Startup Videos:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM7ynOv9gSo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPOpW-Pmfso



What if feels like to have the car finally running:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5MYYolzmT0


There's still a little rain on the parade though. Anyone have advice for a subaru clutch not disengaging. I've go the Subaru master and slave cylinders. The throwout fork seems to be moving about an inch or so. I hope I don't have to tear this bugger apart again, but I'm not currently able to shift it into gear while the car is runner, but I am able to shift it while its off.

First, congratulations. You won't regret the conversion. As I tell Suby conversionists; You'll love it and the purists will hate it. The pull clutch only moves about an inch so that's normal. @chi-town will know

[Cairo94507]

I have always loved the Subaru boxer engine. It just sounds great. I am sure you will get the clutch sorted and then be able to enjoy driving that baby. Oh.....don't shoot me....but the Porsche/Subaru crest decals on the sail panels, though creative, do nothing to improve the look of the car. Maybe just one on the engine lid? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[ValcoOscar]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


Terrific Job

Oscar

[theer]

There's still a little rain on the parade though. Anyone have advice for a subaru clutch not disengaging. I've go the Subaru master and slave cylinders. The throwout fork seems to be moving about an inch or so. I hope I don't have to tear this bugger apart again, but I'm not currently able to shift it into gear while the car is runner, but I am able to shift it while its off.

I am having the exact same problem on Grey Matter. The clutch pressure plate (PP) is a pull-type set up, which means the throw out bearing (TOB) pulls on the PP fingers to release the clutch, rather than pushing.

First thing to check is that all the air is out of the system. If you're sure that's been done, then one of two things is happening:
1) The TOB is not properly snapped into the PP. Remove the slave cylinder from the trans housing and push the clutch fork back as far as possible. This should snap the TOB into the locking ring on the PP and you're good to go. This is part of the normal Subi clutch install process, after the trans is mated to the motor. It's tight, but should be able to do this with everything still in the car.
2) There is interwebs wisdom that says some of the aftermarket clutch sets are not keeping the TOB locked in place. The PP is apparently defective. Trans has to come out.

I tried the clutch fork step on mine, but couldn't get it to engage. I'm going to try one more time before I drop the trans and check the PP & TOB.

[R_u_dd]

IOh.....don't shoot me....but the Porsche/Subaru crest decals on the sail panels, though creative, do nothing to improve the look of the car. Maybe just one on the engine lid? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The design is airbrushed. They look great in person.

[Chi-town]

You should see a bit more movement than 1".

The Subaru system is pain to bleed and doesn't care for vacuum or pressure bleeders much.

One of the big things to check for is that the clutch master is completely unloaded when the pedal is up (did you remove the 914 clutch spring?)

[theer]

You should see a bit more movement than 1".

The Subaru system is pain to bleed and doesn't care for vacuum or pressure bleeders much.

One of the big things to check for is that the clutch master is completely unloaded when the pedal is up (did you remove the 914 clutch spring?)

Spent an hour or so getting mine to finally work. Here’s what I did:
1) Removed slave cylinder and jammed on the clutch fork trying to get it to engage the TOB into the PP. Seemed tighter after I did that.
2) using a ratchet strap, pulled in the clutch fork to test whether the TOB had engaged in the PP. yes!! The clutch released and I could roll it while in gear.
3) With the strap still connected, reinstalled the slave and pressure bled the system. No air came out, but now the slave push rod was fully extended and pushing against the fork (being held by the strap).
4) released the strap... still not enough movement to fully disengage the clutch. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
5) Adjusted the push rod on the pedal into the master to make it as long as possible and that did the trick.

The pedal has a bit of play up high, and clutch now releases at the very bottom of the pedal stroke. If the push rod was a 1/2 inch longer it would be better. But it works and I didn’t have to take out the trans! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Hope that helps. Good luck,
Tom

[R_u_dd]

You should see a bit more movement than 1".

The Subaru system is pain to bleed and doesn't care for vacuum or pressure bleeders much.

One of the big things to check for is that the clutch master is completely unloaded when the pedal is up (did you remove the 914 clutch spring?)

Spent an hour or so getting mine to finally work. Here’s what I did:
1) Removed slave cylinder and jammed on the clutch fork trying to get it to engage the TOB into the PP. Seemed tighter after I did that.
2) using a ratchet strap, pulled in the clutch fork to test whether the TOB had engaged in the PP. yes!! The clutch released and I could roll it while in gear.
3) With the strap still connected, reinstalled the slave and pressure bled the system. No air came out, but now the slave push rod was fully extended and pushing against the fork (being held by the strap).
4) released the strap... still not enough movement to fully disengage the clutch. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
5) Adjusted the push rod on the pedal into the master to make it as long as possible and that did the trick.

The pedal has a bit of play up high, and clutch now releases at the very bottom of the pedal stroke. If the push rod was a 1/2 inch longer it would be better. But it works and I didn’t have to take out the trans! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Hope that helps. Good luck,
Tom

Thanks for the advice. I used a ratchet strap myself and did not have any luck but I will try again. As far as extending the push rod. I have a friend with a C n C machine that would be able to extend it. I used some aluminum and made a makeshift extender myself. I will see how this goes and get back to you. Thanks. Cr.

[76-914]

What is the bore on the MC? How is the AN-3 line routed? Have any picos how your MC push rod ties into the clutch pedal? Lots of pics will help figure this out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
EDIT: I'm running the same trans and never had to use a strap to make it work. It should only take just a few minutes to bleed. My clutch pedal releases about 1/2 way down. I cut off the top portion of the clutch arm ( the part where the spring attaches-not needed) for clearance at the trunk floor.

[R_u_dd]

Hurah, First ride is July 4th 2020

Update - Have resolved the clutch issue and have since driven home from the mechanics shop. Have been stuck on this for several months and busy with work, but now back to work to finish up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMkpS7SimBg


https://youtu.be/CMkpS7SimBg

[Mueller]

Hurah, First ride is July 4th 2020

Update - Have resolved the clutch issue and have since driven home from the mechanics shop. Have been stuck on this for several months and busy with work, but now back to work to finish up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMkpS7SimBg


https://youtu.be/CMkpS7SimBg

Looks and sounds great!