Blue Porscheru Conversion, Subaru 2.5 SOHC NA with Suby Tranny Options

[R_u_dd]

I'd say you're too far. You say it's 22 degrees now? At ride height? Then what's the angle get to at top and bottom of the suspension travel? That should add a few degrees. Also it's true that not being at zero degrees is preferable for lubrication of the CV's, but I don't think that running at the maximum angle all the time is going to work for very long. That's a LOT of movement inside the CV each revolution.

Yeah, giving this some thought. I might just have to scoot the engine/tranny back a couple inches. If I flip the manifold, I might not have to cut the trunk. The problem with using the Suby tranny is that the stubs are forward of the 901 which pushes the engine back and the weight is pushed from the mid-engine arrangement closer to the back.

Another idea is to try the 930 CV's which will go up to a 25 degree angle. Those are 28 spline though and I would have to respline both ends of the axles. The dollars start to add up fast.

I am still curious if anyone has run their axles at this angle for some miles?????

[DBCooper]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i255.photobucket.com-2618-1269179830.1.jpg)

That's my trunk, to fit a WRX engine with flipped manifold. The big bump up on the right is for the turbo, which you wouldn't have. The freeze plug in the middle is for the clutch slave fluid fitting, and the left bump is for the starter. I saw that someone else used a different starter so was able to avoid that clearance problem. It's is quite a bit of extra work to flip the manifold, but probably cheaper than 930 CV's and you don't have to worry about CV longevity because of that angle. There are some other photos in my thread showing how the engine could actually come back even further except for the plumbing for the turbo.

To know about max angles give Sway-a-Way a call. They've done lots of off-road cars with extreme axle angles for maximum suspension travel so they should be able to tell you what's possible and what's too much.

[R_u_dd]

To know about max angles give Sway-a-Way a call. They've done lots of off-road cars with extreme axle angles for maximum suspension travel so they should be able to tell you what's possible and what's too much.

That's a great thread. I have looked at it many times, especially for the cable shifter design.

It looks like these CV's on your photobucket have a bit of an angle as well:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i379.photobucket.com-17072-1447565868.1.jpeg)

What's the story there?

[DBCooper]

That's my son's car. It uses a Coldwater cradle and the axle angle is about 10 degrees front to rear (by sight) so not too radical. Also a WRX but unfortunately the previous owner didn't flip the manifold, instead hacked out a big section of the trunk, so it's not easy to tell how much the engine would have intruded. And those Sway-a-ways were later swapped out for re-splined OEM axles.

One other thing I forgot to mention is that at greater angles the CV is weaker, so you'll break them more often. If you don't change the angle that fact might tip things more towards the stronger 930's.

[R_u_dd]

Also a WRX but unfortunately the previous owner didn't flip the manifold, instead hacked out a big section of the trunk, so it's not easy to tell how much the engine would have intruded.

I am curious in shifting the engine back a few inches from the original setup if you notice a difference in weight shift. Does it still retain its mid engine feel.? It would be pointless to do all this if I end up with a rear weighted car like a bug. I still have the 901 transmission, but think it best to use the 'ru tranny.

[DBCooper]

Also a WRX but unfortunately the previous owner didn't flip the manifold, instead hacked out a big section of the trunk, so it's not easy to tell how much the engine would have intruded.

I am curious in shifting the engine back a few inches from the original setup if you notice a difference in weight shift. Does it still retain its mid engine feel.? It would be pointless to do all this if I end up with a rear weighted car like a bug. I still have the 901 transmission, but think it best to use the 'ru tranny.

There's absolutely no difference that I could tell, and we've done two cars now, first the engine and then later the transmission on both cars. You HAVE to do the Subaru transmission. I think anyone who's done it will tell you that the Subaru transmission was almost as significant an improvement as the Subaru engine, huge in both performance and drivability, and the gears are matched. It just works.

[76-914]

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[R_u_dd]

And those Sway-a-ways were later swapped out for re-splined OEM axles.

Do you remember the length of the axles? I should be able to figure it out once the engine is in place bycreating a mock up, but 18" seems to be about right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[R_u_dd]

Calculating the Angle of the CV joint.

Web Trigonometry Calculator

Good News. It pays to know your math. Or, to enlist your daughter to remind you how. So my angle is only at 12.84 degrees which should be within the 944 CV joint tolerance (22 degrees) when upgrading to the 5 lug wheel. Here's the calculation with angle A being the critical angle and 4 inches of offset with the 18 inch axle:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1447647532.1.jpg)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

So, I don't have to move the engine back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Math is fun. And saves time and money!!!!

[R_u_dd]

Bumper

The idea with the bumper was to deflect air into the radiator. I am going for the look below. I used the stock valence, cut out a portion and welded tabs to mount an aftermarket valence from a Honda Civic from the junkyard for $35.

I love the look of this valence from iamchappy.

Aiming for this look from member veekry9:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401567.1.jpeg)

Started by welding on some tabs and the plastic bumper.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401567.2.jpg)

Cut along the line...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401567.3.jpg)

Metal tabs support the plastic civic valence.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401567.4.jpg)

Fiberglass covering the metal tabs. This part will scoop the air through
these holes and into the radiator.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401567.5.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401568.6.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401568.7.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401568.8.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455401568.9.jpg)

Finally, the final product:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1466990210.1.jpeg)

Hard to get a good perspective shot, but here it is. The valence is designed to scoop air underneath the bumper. This will need to be tested to see if we get enough air into the radiator to keep it cool. If not, expect the bumper to get cut out significantly.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1466990210.2.jpeg)

[R_u_dd]

Seats and Interior

After much deliberation, I have decided to go stock with the seats and upgade the passenger seat from the '71 fixed to an adjustable. My floorpans were rusted badly and I could not save the seat hinges, so thanks to mrihop I was able to get some newer parts, seat brackets, risers and hinges. Still, I had to break down and buy a couple newer hinges and risers. It's just not worth trying to save them out if they are rusted. There's a great video on how to align the hinges and weld everything together from restorationdesign.com

How to mount the seat hinges in a 914

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455404356.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455404356.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455404356.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455404357.4.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1455404357.5.jpg)

___________________


I decided to reupholster my seats at least partly. I got tow seats on 914world for $75 bucks each and cushion covers for another $70 bucks each. Went down to Joe (Women's fabric shop) and bought a yard of vinyl for $20 and some glue. Here's some before and after shots. These are not concourse seats but I think they look pretty good and they're certainly a lot cheaper than new.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1466991636.1.jpg)

Before

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1466990990.2.jpeg)

After

My door panels were not serviceable, so I decided to redo the inside panel and re-upholster the vinyl. I used thin plywood, about 1/4 inch birch. The old panel was used as a template which worked great. I used bubble insulation for padding and noise reduction. The most important part is to use a good glue. In my case, I used weather strip adhesive- GREAT STUFF!.

The wood cutout from the original template:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1471582246.1.jpg)

Funky backing:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1471582246.2.jpg)

Bubble Wrap padding:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1471582246.3.jpg)

[R_u_dd]

Seats and Re-Upholstery info:


Re-Upholstery-Autos International

Built up Bolsters

GTS Classics - Classic Seats for Classic Cars

Seat materials World Upholstery

Seat Materials Company Links

914 Rubber Seat Materials

Renegade Seats Thread See post 17. Interesting information on bolsters

More Renegade Seat info

Lakewell UK - Has tan interiors

While driver and passenger seats are interchangeable, there are minor differences.

Camp 914 Le Mans Seats

Auto Atlanta Seat Parts for Re-upholstery

Back Pad Vinyl from 914rubber.com

[veekry9]

I'm glad you like it.
I drew this largemouth look to emulate the '50-60s Vette.
An older brother had a convertible from that era,I liked it in '59,still do.
The details are a little deceiving,as the car is much wider than stock.
The inner sponson is pretty much normal,the width of the lites is of course wider and therefore the fender too.
That was the purpose of using the larger lite,the method of achieving the new width is a filler strip at the top of the sponson.
A lot of planning,mapping and hammer and dolly work,for the wide narrowbody look.
How it would look without new doorskins is up for debate,the stepout being up to 6".
Note too that the bumper is widened the same amount.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...22522&st=51
Just flogging some ideas around,seeing what fits.

[R_u_dd]

Yes, I really like that look for the form and function of it. It looks like a nice design to pull air through a front radiator. What can you tell me about that car? Is it pure animation, or is it a real car? What is the color? Perhaps you have more pictures. What software did you use to change the look?

[veekry9]

https://www.gimp.org/

Some people can use a camera properly,this was a 'front' pix.
The pix was from the most immaculate 914-6-Turbo you will ever see.
'iamchappy' here on board.

Drawing is from 2008,when I first sampled the pix.
The auto sector had taken a dump,and some 20k people had been laid off.
Had some spare time and tried sketching a few things.
The methodology today is a little different than days of old.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbrq2fDN8bA



This panel is the traditional aluminum hand beaten method.
Light,beautiful,difficult.
A panel man from Illinois made it.
http://imgur.com/gallery/lnluh

/

[ahycaramba]

I can't wait to see your finished product on the front valance panel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) It is one of the best alternate designs I have seen as of yet. make sure to keep a mold. you have potential of making so dough from this community alone. I would buy one if the price is not over the top. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[R_u_dd]

Paint Prep Continued...

The metal work and preparations for final paining are at the point where I could call Scott, my painter, back into the game. We started doing some final paint prep before we go to paint. The whole process is new to me and it's great to learn from a veteran. These are the steps that we are taking:

Metal work to remove rust.
Bead blasting with glass beads. Similar to sand blasting, but the beads are much smaller.
Primed with Epoxy Primer
Primed within one week with high build primer
Primed with Urethane Primer over the top
Rust encapsulator in key locations, like over the battery tray area.

Most of this was done several months ago. I then worked on some final metal work like the radiator mount, front valence, rear jack point.

Now we are ready for final prep work which included block sanding with 80 and 180 grit. We used foot long blocks made of a flexible rubber, with velcro on the sides. Scott also uses a metal file to knock off the high points. Scott marks the low spots with a circle and the high spots with an "X". The low spots are then filled with glazing compound, a very thin filler, and sanded with 180 grit. He also used an air sander.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678354.1.jpg)

One of the steps we took was to roll the fenders to give them a better shape. We only moved the fenders a quarter inch, but rolled the lips and got rid of the funky inward curve of the shape when looking overtop the fenders. It is amazing what a subtle change like this can do to the aesthetics and functionality.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678354.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678354.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678355.4.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678355.5.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678355.6.jpg)

This is what the primed car looks like. This is "two laps around" the vehicle, or two coats of Urethane primer separated by 10 minutes of drying.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678355.7.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678356.8.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1456678356.9.jpg)

Next up, sanding with 400 and 600 grit, some final prep and then Painting!!!

[914forme]

Interesting fender cut outs, I like them

[R_u_dd]

Yes the radiator vent holes. I figured that the triangles would retain more strength.

Also see post #48

[whitetwinturbo]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)