Painting underside - black or body color, Wurth undercoating or not Options

[TravisNeff]

If I understand correctly, your question about how they paint over the undercoating goes like this. I think that you prime, then apply the wurth or SKS snot stuff on (it applies clear, or yellowy clear, then paint over the top of that.... I think.

You could definately do POR15 and paint over it, but it sounds like you are wanting some chassis/paint protection from roadkill flying up in your fenderwells.

[Katmanken]

Qarl,

When I lived in Melbourne and Indiatlantic, the first thing you did after buying a car was taking it out for undercoating. There was a place in Melbourne that would apply 3/16 to 1/4 inch of rustproof coating everywhere. That was the only way to keep your car from rusting.

Except for Honduhs, those cheap POS come pre-rusted from the factory. People near the beach just won't buy them.

I like 2. Ever sandblasted? Something hard will pit. Something a little bit flexible (like duct tape) will survive. Wurth then paint would be my vote.

Ken

[Doug Leggins]

Qarl - Glad to hear that you are getting moving on the project again! I hope that in a couple of months you are smiling from ear to ear while looking at your new paint job!

Some reasons why I went black on the underside.

-I always thought that the color coded underside looked kind of odd. Nearly all cars that I am familiar with have a black underside. My opinion on this is changing however, after seeing more 914s. The color coded bottom looks really good on some 914s. And after all, that is the way they came from the facory.

- My car is intended to be a frequent driver. My thoughts are that the black will not show dirt as much as bright orange would. And after some suface scars appear and need to be touched up I should be able to blend a satin black into the wheelwell easier than i could blend in the orange.

-My thoughts were that a black underside would help to show off the black chrome powder coated parts.

- My painter was familiar with the black industrial enamel that we used. There's a local hot rod builder that has been using it for a few years and recommended the material. The material is an industrial equipment enamel made by Western Automotive Finishes which is a division of Sherwin Williams.

- The painter recommended spraying the tops of the wheel wells with a stone guard/chip resistant 3M material. With the car going to be a driver- this made sense to me. I am fairly certain that the stone guard is sprayed on top of the paint. Since both are black, this worked on my car.


Pics...

[Doug Leggins]

After the wheels and tires are installed and the car is on the ground, there is really not much of the wheel wells that is visible. The black underside does not draw attention to inside the wheel wells. The car body is where most peoples view will stop. With a color coded wheel well it seems, to me, to take my viewing of the car on into the wheel wells. I did not want this for a driver. For a show car I sure would.

[Doug Leggins]

More pics just because i can.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[Doug Leggins]

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[Type 4]

I would use Hammerite Smooth finsh. The paint is very tough it will not chip once it has dryed.

[sj914]

Have you thought of using the hardnose coating from POR-15

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=249

[Eric Taylor]

I would just like to say, doug you suck! God i'm so jealous, you could eat off of that thing! Jesus it's going to be new when your done, and we can all refrence it for how are car's are supposed to look (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)!
Eric

P.S.
I'm partial to the color coded underside, but the black is more practical, yellow is pretty, but black dosn't show the uglyness the road will provide.

[Gint]

I think you already know what my opinion is! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

Mine is epoxy primer, Wurth shutzschitwhateveritscalled, and BRIGHT TANGERINE PAINT!

[davep]

The factory put undercoating on first, then the paint. It is less likely to crack or chip than paint alone. It will also reduce noise significantly.

[914Timo]

Qarl, glad to hear you are "back in the business" (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif)

I painted the underside of my 914 gloss black. There is under that paint a thick layer of paintable undercoating mass. No problems after thousands of miles here in rainy and cold Finland.

But, black looks allways dirty after some use. So, I would use body color also in underside in your case.

[Series9]

My underside is yellow. The wheel wells are shot with gravel guard.

Here are the best pics I have right now:

[Series9]

last:

[914werke]

Not to Hijack but Joe, w/that last shot up into the fender It seems there is a significant lack of seam sealer. Did you gut it all out?
Doug I guess that Q is to you as well as youve gone down the complete resto mode.

[Series9]

QUOTE (rdauenhauer @ Mar 7 2005, 11:17 AM)

Not to Hijack but Joe, w/that last shot up into the fender It seems there is a significant lack of seam sealer. Did you gut it all out? Doug I guess that Q is to you as well as youve gone down the complete resto mode.

There is seam sealer, but it's minimal.

[Tom Perso]

A friend of mine does this process:

1) Bare metal prepped for POR-15
2) POR-15 applied and dried
3) Shoot 3M Body Shutz
4) Paint to match.

Looks like this:

(IMG:http://www.qtm.net/~persot/912/DCP00858.JPG)

Doesn't that look sweet, AND deaden the stone/rock noise, and look durable?

Later,
Tom

[Joe Ricard]

OK Tom so how are your fenders going back on?