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> Turbo valve cover modification for installation in a 6, Anybody done it?
ClayPerrine
post Aug 6 2019, 08:51 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 19 2015, 01:40 PM) *

QUOTE(gms @ Sep 19 2015, 01:24 PM) *

If you are not hung up on the O.E. look I highly recommend these Hargett Precision billet covers, they utilize the later 964 type cord seal. This ended years of leaks on my 914.


Nice...and only around $75 more than a new set of turbo covers.


Don't use the factory 964 valve covers. They are thin magnesium and warp easily causing a hell of a leak. If you are using twin plug heads, use these

Attached Image

They are billet aluminum, and they use the stock seal. I have been told they won't leak like the factory ones. I have not tried it, so you may find you have to enlarge the bolt holes. The 964 uses 6x1.0 studs, the older engines use 8x1.25 studs.



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burton73
post Aug 6 2019, 09:32 PM
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What I have on my 6 #41Attached Image

Bob B
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914043
post Aug 7 2019, 10:09 PM
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very simple, get an electric grinder with a flapper grinding wheel and take it down similar to what gereed75 showed in his post. goes pretty fast check as you go.
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raynekat
post Aug 8 2019, 01:38 PM
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Fins are NOT on the turbo covers for cooling.
They are there to add structural stiffness so the covers don't warp as easily as the earlier covers tended to do.

I think a bigger problem with any cover warping is that the owner doesn't change out the gaskets enough when there are leaks and instead tries to tighten the dickens out of the covers....that's what really warps them.

I would just remove enough material to get the turbo covers to clear the suspension ear as in post #7 and leave the rest of the rib material alone.
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ClayPerrine
post Aug 8 2019, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(raynekat @ Aug 8 2019, 02:38 PM) *

Fins are NOT on the turbo covers for cooling.
They are there to add structural stiffness so the covers don't warp as easily as the earlier covers tended to do.

I think a bigger problem with any cover warping is that the owner doesn't change out the gaskets enough when there are leaks and instead tries to tighten the dickens out of the covers....that's what really warps them.

I would just remove enough material to get the turbo covers to clear the suspension ear as in post #7 and leave the rest of the rib material alone.


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t collins
post Aug 8 2019, 07:37 PM
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I milled mine down to just above the bosses using a router w/carbide bit ....
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914Toy
post Aug 8 2019, 08:12 PM
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QUOTE(914043 @ Aug 7 2019, 09:09 PM) *

very simple, get an electric grinder with a flapper grinding wheel and take it down similar to what gereed75 showed in his post. goes pretty fast check as you go.


Agree with you and only required on the driver side.
This is no big deal!
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UROpartsman
post Aug 9 2019, 10:34 AM
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Auto Atlanta just added them to their web site, see link here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=339746
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Mark Henry
post Aug 9 2019, 03:07 PM
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QUOTE(UROpartsman @ Aug 9 2019, 12:34 PM) *

Auto Atlanta just added them to their web site, see link here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=339746


$60 each, good price.
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porschetub
post Aug 9 2019, 05:12 PM
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QUOTE(raynekat @ Aug 9 2019, 07:38 AM) *

Fins are NOT on the turbo covers for cooling.
They are there to add structural stiffness so the covers don't warp as easily as the earlier covers tended to do.

I think a bigger problem with any cover warping is that the owner doesn't change out the gaskets enough when there are leaks and instead tries to tighten the dickens out of the covers....that's what really warps them.

I would just remove enough material to get the turbo covers to clear the suspension ear as in post #7 and leave the rest of the rib material alone.


Read all the replies and most just chop them down over the full length,fair enough I'am now thinking it wouldn't make that much difference just don't see the need.
Really nothing could be as bad as old twisted magnesium ones ,I resurfaced mine and they still weep with the right gaskets,the alloy ones must be a big improvement fully machined of just clearanced on the one side as the set I have yet to fit.
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fixer34
post Aug 9 2019, 08:38 PM
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Been there, done that 5+ years ago when I replaced leaky magnesium covers (with engine in the car). Sales rep told me the turbo covers would fit as-is. Manager later called to apologize. Here are some pictures I took best I could after my 'modifications'. Don't need to take much off, just around a couple bosses.Attached Image Attached ImageAttached Image
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mb911
post Aug 10 2019, 11:23 AM
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You should NOT be required to machine the covers to fit the engine in the car but rather remove the covers while the engine is in the car.
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moriarty
post Feb 5 2024, 08:10 AM
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QUOTE(gereed75 @ Sep 18 2015, 05:27 PM) *

QUOTE(396 @ Sep 18 2015, 08:54 PM) *

No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .



This is all that needs to be done


Hi,is it necessary to have this done to both left hand and right hand side valve covers or just one side, i.e. driver's side (oil cooler side)?
Cheers, Maurice (UK) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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mepstein
post Feb 5 2024, 08:42 AM
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Both sides
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fixer34
post Feb 5 2024, 12:59 PM
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My pictures are a couple posts earlier, I don't think I had to do both sides (but that was almost 10 yrs ago). It isn't the oil cooler that is the issue, it is the trailing arm suspension mount.
Just need a little shaved off right around that area.
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moriarty
post Feb 8 2024, 06:01 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 5 2024, 06:42 AM) *

Both sides

OK. Thanks for the info, i'll get both sides done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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nditiz1
post Feb 8 2024, 07:00 AM
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When I swapped to turbo covers, I only had an issue getting the driver side off due to the frame mount. The passenger removed without issues.
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brant
post Feb 8 2024, 08:13 AM
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Every car is slightly different
It could also matter how the motor mount was welded

The correct way to do this
Install motor with covers off/removed
Then machine as needed to install covers while motor is in chassis

My car needed some on both sides
Every car is different
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