BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Rightpedals 74, 914 challenge build |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Rightpedals 74, 914 challenge build |
rick 918-S |
Jan 31 2016, 11:03 PM
Post
#41
|
Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,785 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Hey, the jacket is cool and all but it is does symbolize the wall of shame... Keep on welding bro! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
|
RJMII |
Jan 31 2016, 11:30 PM
Post
#42
|
Jim McIntosh Group: Members Posts: 3,125 Joined: 11-September 07 From: Sandy, Utah Member No.: 8,112 Region Association: None |
|
rightpedal |
Jun 12 2016, 07:56 PM
Post
#43
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
A looooooog over due update.
I bought a radiator fan combo A Subaru 3.0, 5mt trans, computer, starter, harness, and mounts(Crazy Rays pickurpart) clutch slave (luk from rockauto) honda clutch master (luk rockuto) clutch kit from ebay chunk of 1/4 aluminum Started cleaning up the floor and adding the tunnel for the cooling tubes. I used an old shelving unit for the sheet metal. My thinking is a 1 1/2 deep tray sits just under the factory consul hump. Since I'm not using the factory shifter, wiring harness or fuel lines I might as well take up space with two 1 1/2 tubes. I don't like to use soft lines if i can help it. The plan is to run hard lines under the car with soft connections front and rear. the Subie 3.0 is from a 2002 outback that was completely caved in on the driver side. No Idea of the millage but everything in the engine compartment pointed to a running engine that had been well maintained. The glitch was I went back two days later to pull the harness and computer. The car was already crushed. A couple weeks later another 3.0 showed up at a different crazy rays. I love pick ur parts. The 5mt trans was pulled from a 2002 Impreza that had a pretty hard front impact. This is more of a gamble. The drive pulleys were mangled and it cracked the alt/ac mount. the trans appears to have escaped the the bulk of the impact. |
rightpedal |
Jun 12 2016, 08:08 PM
Post
#44
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
|
rightpedal |
Jun 12 2016, 08:10 PM
Post
#45
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
|
jimkelly |
Jun 13 2016, 05:40 AM
Post
#46
|
Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
plate is looking great. jig saw, huh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
|
Andyrew |
Jun 13 2016, 08:03 AM
Post
#47
|
Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Simple....pattern, drill, jig saw, hole saw, file..... done Cut down the factory bolts. Thinking back it was a bit of a mistake. i need two of the bolts to hold the bracket for the cable shifter. I grabbed a bunch of longer M10/12 bolts for the Audi engine at the local hardware store.. Just saying (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Your plate looks excellent! |
76-914 |
Jun 13 2016, 08:25 AM
Post
#48
|
Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,634 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Wow! You stole that drive train. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Your going to love that 3.0. Smooth as a sewing machine and nice torque curve, 25mpg! Two things; did you get the ECU for that motor (IIRC, 2001-02 are the same; 2003 is different) and did you clean that oil cooler? I couldn't see it in the pics after you cleaned the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
|
914350 |
Jun 13 2016, 09:01 AM
Post
#49
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 548 Joined: 21-April 14 From: Torrance Ca. Member No.: 17,275 Region Association: Southern California |
Way cool...I love the tunnel modification.
|
Andyrew |
Jun 13 2016, 11:11 AM
Post
#50
|
Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
I also love the center tunnel mod!
Be sure you use SS tubes. I contemplated welding in stainless steel tubes in my setup. May still do that. Ifin you do do that I would suggest that you add another layer of steel between the cabin and the tubes and put some insulation in there or at least some kind of heat barrier. If the tubes are held off the steel 1/2" then the radiant heat should be much better. |
rightpedal |
Jun 13 2016, 05:00 PM
Post
#51
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Wow! You stole that drive train. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Your going to love that 3.0. Smooth as a sewing machine and nice torque curve, 25mpg! Two things; did you get the ECU for that motor (IIRC, 2001-02 are the same; 2003 is different) and did you clean that oil cooler? I couldn't see it in the pics after you cleaned the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Yea I'm pretty much steeling your entire build idea. Its the perfect combo. I am not running AC but I can always retro it in. Both cars were 2002s and I grabed the intake + extra sensors out of the wiring harness/computer car. I pressure washed the motor just so mock up wasn't as greasy. I have to build the cradle, measure for axles, figure the firewall exit for the coolant lines, figure fuel feed, heater hose feed, and wiring/computer. Then the engine comes out and the bay gets cleaned up. I was toying with just replacing the cooler over cleaning but thats on the list after mock up. Steve |
rightpedal |
Jun 13 2016, 05:06 PM
Post
#52
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I also love the center tunnel mod! Be sure you use SS tubes. I contemplated welding in stainless steel tubes in my setup. May still do that. Ifin you do do that I would suggest that you add another layer of steel between the cabin and the tubes and put some insulation in there or at least some kind of heat barrier. If the tubes are held off the steel 1/2" then the radiant heat should be much better. Thanks The tunnel made sense to me. You and I are on the same page. Im going back and forth on Insulation sleeve vs enough air gap. If the lines hang down a little it wont bother me. I figure keep the strapping semi flexible and some air gap/shock in case i do bump the bottom of the car. |
Andyrew |
Jun 13 2016, 10:07 PM
Post
#53
|
Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Are you going to do stainless or aluminized(conduit) tube?
|
rightpedal |
Jun 14 2016, 04:47 AM
Post
#54
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I have not committed one way or the other. It is going to depend on available funds and my ability to bend them. I could get away with strait pipes given the shape of the tunnel but I would like to see the tube kick up front and rear toward the target end.
Stainless.... well its stainless and will last about forever. aluminized exhaust tube.... cheap a little easier to bend. Leaning toward exhaust tube. The concept/challenge of this build is is zero end cost. Im ahead on the budget right now but we all know how fast it disappears once the reassembly starts to happen. I figure painted and taken care of the exhaust tube has a 8-10 year life span. I rarely keep vehicles 2-3 years past completion. If I or the next owner has to redo the coolant pipes 10 years down the road....so be it. steve |
rightpedal |
Jun 14 2016, 04:54 AM
Post
#55
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Woooooftaa I just bought a couple of mounts for the 3.0 subie motor. $165.00 after shipping. To compare 2.5 mounts $80. The joy of supply and demand.
|
jd74914 |
Jun 14 2016, 05:08 AM
Post
#56
|
Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,814 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
Aluminum (non-heat treated so T-0 condition) tubing should be less expensive than stainless and still bend pretty well. It might be worth a look since you will avoid the rust and galvanic corrosion problems without incurring too high a cost penalty.
I like the tunnel mod as well! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
rightpedal |
Jun 14 2016, 07:13 AM
Post
#57
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Oooo hadn't thought of that! I will do some research.
|
Andyrew |
Jun 14 2016, 08:34 AM
Post
#58
|
Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
I have not committed one way or the other. It is going to depend on available funds and my ability to bend them. I could get away with strait pipes given the shape of the tunnel but I would like to see the tube kick up front and rear toward the target end. Stainless.... well its stainless and will last about forever. aluminized exhaust tube.... cheap a little easier to bend. Leaning toward exhaust tube. The concept/challenge of this build is is zero end cost. Im ahead on the budget right now but we all know how fast it disappears once the reassembly starts to happen. I figure painted and taken care of the exhaust tube has a 8-10 year life span. I rarely keep vehicles 2-3 years past completion. If I or the next owner has to redo the coolant pipes 10 years down the road....so be it. steve I got quite a bit of stainless for some of my water lines for under $50.. That included a bunch of different diameters (3/8, 5/8, 1 1/4) About 3-6 feet of each. Its not THAT expensive.. I mean maybe twice aluminized tubing, but it welds like regular steel and if you dont do bends you can just cut and weld in angles (thats what I did..) |
rightpedal |
Oct 30 2016, 06:35 PM
Post
#59
|
rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Big news I'm moving across the country. This has been in the works for a couple of months now. The 914s are a casualty of the move. I am putting the whole lot up for sale. I will list details on all parts and cars in the for sale section some time this week. The basic list is as follows.
1975 Georgia car 1974 blue car 1/4s, doors, suspension, and breaks from the red car. 3.0 subie motor with all the accessories and transmission. subie cradle and trans mounts. new parts: clutch kit, clutch slave and master, radiator/fan combo, 3.0 subie mounts. boxes and boxes of used parts. 3 tops $2000.00 |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 25th November 2024 - 05:04 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |