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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Rightpedals 74, 914 challenge build
rick 918-S
post Jan 31 2016, 11:03 PM
Post #41


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Hey, the jacket is cool and all but it is does symbolize the wall of shame... Keep on welding bro! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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RJMII
post Jan 31 2016, 11:30 PM
Post #42


Jim McIntosh
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QUOTE(rightpedal @ Jan 26 2016, 04:09 AM) *

I think the horn button is an original porsche part (read not a repoduction). It is on the top of the list of items to be sold.


I'd be interested in that horn button. :-) My very first car had one, and I like the style.
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rightpedal
post Jun 12 2016, 07:56 PM
Post #43


rightpeda;
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A looooooog over due update.

I bought a radiator fan combo
A Subaru 3.0, 5mt trans, computer, starter, harness, and mounts(Crazy Rays pickurpart)
clutch slave (luk from rockauto)
honda clutch master (luk rockuto)
clutch kit from ebay
chunk of 1/4 aluminum

Started cleaning up the floor and adding the tunnel for the cooling tubes.

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I used an old shelving unit for the sheet metal. My thinking is a 1 1/2 deep tray sits just under the factory consul hump. Since I'm not using the factory shifter, wiring harness or fuel lines I might as well take up space with two 1 1/2 tubes. I don't like to use soft lines if i can help it. The plan is to run hard lines under the car with soft connections front and rear.

the Subie 3.0 is from a 2002 outback that was completely caved in on the driver side. No Idea of the millage but everything in the engine compartment pointed to a running engine that had been well maintained.
The glitch was I went back two days later to pull the harness and computer. The car was already crushed. A couple weeks later another 3.0 showed up at a different crazy rays. I love pick ur parts.
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The 5mt trans was pulled from a 2002 Impreza that had a pretty hard front impact. This is more of a gamble. The drive pulleys were mangled and it cracked the alt/ac mount. the trans appears to have escaped the the bulk of the impact.

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rightpedal
post Jun 12 2016, 08:08 PM
Post #44


rightpeda;
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I did a quick clean up to the 3.0

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Made a block off plate from some scrap aluminum. way easier than i thought it would be.

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rightpedal
post Jun 12 2016, 08:10 PM
Post #45


rightpeda;
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Simple....pattern, drill, jig saw, hole saw, file..... done

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Cut down the factory bolts. Thinking back it was a bit of a mistake. i need two of the bolts to hold the bracket for the cable shifter.
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jimkelly
post Jun 13 2016, 05:40 AM
Post #46


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plate is looking great. jig saw, huh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Andyrew
post Jun 13 2016, 08:03 AM
Post #47


Spooling.... Please wait
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QUOTE(rightpedal @ Jun 12 2016, 07:10 PM) *

Simple....pattern, drill, jig saw, hole saw, file..... done

Attached Image Attached Image

Cut down the factory bolts. Thinking back it was a bit of a mistake. i need two of the bolts to hold the bracket for the cable shifter.
Attached Image


I grabbed a bunch of longer M10/12 bolts for the Audi engine at the local hardware store.. Just saying (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Your plate looks excellent!
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76-914
post Jun 13 2016, 08:25 AM
Post #48


Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist
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Wow! You stole that drive train. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Your going to love that 3.0. Smooth as a sewing machine and nice torque curve, 25mpg! Two things; did you get the ECU for that motor (IIRC, 2001-02 are the same; 2003 is different) and did you clean that oil cooler? I couldn't see it in the pics after you cleaned the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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914350
post Jun 13 2016, 09:01 AM
Post #49


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Way cool...I love the tunnel modification.
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Andyrew
post Jun 13 2016, 11:11 AM
Post #50


Spooling.... Please wait
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I also love the center tunnel mod!

Be sure you use SS tubes. I contemplated welding in stainless steel tubes in my setup. May still do that.

Ifin you do do that I would suggest that you add another layer of steel between the cabin and the tubes and put some insulation in there or at least some kind of heat barrier. If the tubes are held off the steel 1/2" then the radiant heat should be much better.
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rightpedal
post Jun 13 2016, 05:00 PM
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rightpeda;
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 13 2016, 10:25 AM) *

Wow! You stole that drive train. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Your going to love that 3.0. Smooth as a sewing machine and nice torque curve, 25mpg! Two things; did you get the ECU for that motor (IIRC, 2001-02 are the same; 2003 is different) and did you clean that oil cooler? I couldn't see it in the pics after you cleaned the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)




Yea I'm pretty much steeling your entire build idea. Its the perfect combo. I am not running AC but I can always retro it in. Both cars were 2002s and I grabed the intake + extra sensors out of the wiring harness/computer car.

I pressure washed the motor just so mock up wasn't as greasy. I have to build the cradle, measure for axles, figure the firewall exit for the coolant lines, figure fuel feed, heater hose feed, and wiring/computer. Then the engine comes out and the bay gets cleaned up.

I was toying with just replacing the cooler over cleaning but thats on the list after mock up.

Steve
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rightpedal
post Jun 13 2016, 05:06 PM
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rightpeda;
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jun 13 2016, 01:11 PM) *

I also love the center tunnel mod!

Be sure you use SS tubes. I contemplated welding in stainless steel tubes in my setup. May still do that.

Ifin you do do that I would suggest that you add another layer of steel between the cabin and the tubes and put some insulation in there or at least some kind of heat barrier. If the tubes are held off the steel 1/2" then the radiant heat should be much better.


Thanks The tunnel made sense to me.
You and I are on the same page. Im going back and forth on Insulation sleeve vs enough air gap. If the lines hang down a little it wont bother me. I figure keep the strapping semi flexible and some air gap/shock in case i do bump the bottom of the car.
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Andyrew
post Jun 13 2016, 10:07 PM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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Are you going to do stainless or aluminized(conduit) tube?
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rightpedal
post Jun 14 2016, 04:47 AM
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rightpeda;
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I have not committed one way or the other. It is going to depend on available funds and my ability to bend them. I could get away with strait pipes given the shape of the tunnel but I would like to see the tube kick up front and rear toward the target end.

Stainless.... well its stainless and will last about forever.
aluminized exhaust tube.... cheap a little easier to bend.

Leaning toward exhaust tube. The concept/challenge of this build is is zero end cost. Im ahead on the budget right now but we all know how fast it disappears once the reassembly starts to happen. I figure painted and taken care of the exhaust tube has a 8-10 year life span. I rarely keep vehicles 2-3 years past completion. If I or the next owner has to redo the coolant pipes 10 years down the road....so be it.

steve
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rightpedal
post Jun 14 2016, 04:54 AM
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rightpeda;
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Woooooftaa I just bought a couple of mounts for the 3.0 subie motor. $165.00 after shipping. To compare 2.5 mounts $80. The joy of supply and demand.
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jd74914
post Jun 14 2016, 05:08 AM
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Aluminum (non-heat treated so T-0 condition) tubing should be less expensive than stainless and still bend pretty well. It might be worth a look since you will avoid the rust and galvanic corrosion problems without incurring too high a cost penalty.

I like the tunnel mod as well! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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rightpedal
post Jun 14 2016, 07:13 AM
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rightpeda;
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Oooo hadn't thought of that! I will do some research.
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Andyrew
post Jun 14 2016, 08:34 AM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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QUOTE(rightpedal @ Jun 14 2016, 03:47 AM) *

I have not committed one way or the other. It is going to depend on available funds and my ability to bend them. I could get away with strait pipes given the shape of the tunnel but I would like to see the tube kick up front and rear toward the target end.

Stainless.... well its stainless and will last about forever.
aluminized exhaust tube.... cheap a little easier to bend.

Leaning toward exhaust tube. The concept/challenge of this build is is zero end cost. Im ahead on the budget right now but we all know how fast it disappears once the reassembly starts to happen. I figure painted and taken care of the exhaust tube has a 8-10 year life span. I rarely keep vehicles 2-3 years past completion. If I or the next owner has to redo the coolant pipes 10 years down the road....so be it.

steve



I got quite a bit of stainless for some of my water lines for under $50.. That included a bunch of different diameters (3/8, 5/8, 1 1/4) About 3-6 feet of each.


Its not THAT expensive.. I mean maybe twice aluminized tubing, but it welds like regular steel and if you dont do bends you can just cut and weld in angles (thats what I did..)
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rightpedal
post Oct 30 2016, 06:35 PM
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rightpeda;
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Big news I'm moving across the country. This has been in the works for a couple of months now. The 914s are a casualty of the move. I am putting the whole lot up for sale. I will list details on all parts and cars in the for sale section some time this week. The basic list is as follows.

1975 Georgia car
1974 blue car
1/4s, doors, suspension, and breaks from the red car.
3.0 subie motor with all the accessories and transmission.
subie cradle and trans mounts.
new parts: clutch kit, clutch slave and master, radiator/fan combo, 3.0 subie mounts.
boxes and boxes of used parts.
3 tops

$2000.00


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