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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Vysoc / Yellow Sub, And so it begins............
Vysoc
post Dec 25 2015, 08:04 AM
Post #21


Vysoc
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Merry Christmas to all!

Floor Pan question, it is within a couple of days and I will finally be putting both of my floor pans in. As you can see in my above photo's of the floor pan fit-up there is an overlap between the two panels in the middle 2 to 3 inches.
My question is what is the best way to attach them where they join up?

1) Rosette welds every 3 cm's and then stitch where they join together, they will also be attached all the way along where the tunnel meets the panels.

2) Trim one side to make it meet up as close to the center as possible and then butt weld the entire seam?

3) Measure everything out and trim to make both halves fit perfectly. Then with both halves away from car weld in a union piece between the seam at several different spots to hold the panels together. Obviously the issue is all the changes along the seam with the shapes in the sheet metal. My other fear is the amount of heat that will be created in making the butt weld?

Thanks for your input as always!!!

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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stevegm
post Dec 25 2015, 08:31 AM
Post #22


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QUOTE(Vysoc @ Dec 25 2015, 09:04 AM) *

Merry Christmas to all!

Floor Pan question, it is within a couple of days and I will finally be putting both of my floor pans in. As you can see in my above photo's of the floor pan fit-up there is an overlap between the two panels in the middle 2 to 3 inches.
My question is what is the best way to attach them where they join up?

1) Rosette welds every 3 cm's and then stitch where they join together, they will also be attached all the way along where the tunnel meets the panels.

2) Trim one side to make it meet up as close to the center as possible and then butt weld the entire seam?

3) Measure everything out and trim to make both halves fit perfectly. Then with both halves away from car weld in a union piece between the seam at several different spots to hold the panels together. Obviously the issue is all the changes along the seam with the shapes in the sheet metal. My other fear is the amount of heat that will be created in making the butt weld?

Thanks for your input as always!!!

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)



Good question for Scotty or Rick or Ken. Hopefully one of them will chime in.
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budk
post Dec 25 2015, 10:56 AM
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QUOTE(Vysoc @ Dec 25 2015, 09:04 AM) *

Merry Christmas to all!

Floor Pan question, it is within a couple of days and I will finally be putting both of my floor pans in. As you can see in my above photo's of the floor pan fit-up there is an overlap between the two panels in the middle 2 to 3 inches.
My question is what is the best way to attach them where they join up?

1) Rosette welds every 3 cm's and then stitch where they join together, they will also be attached all the way along where the tunnel meets the panels.

2) Trim one side to make it meet up as close to the center as possible and then butt weld the entire seam?

3) Measure everything out and trim to make both halves fit perfectly. Then with both halves away from car weld in a union piece between the seam at several different spots to hold the panels together. Obviously the issue is all the changes along the seam with the shapes in the sheet metal. My other fear is the amount of heat that will be created in making the butt weld?

Thanks for your input as always!!!

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


Restoration Design shows the seam being butt welded.

Floor Pan replacement How-To
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Vysoc
post Dec 25 2015, 01:52 PM
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Great information, my seam actually runs from front to back, but that tip that he gives about using the seam clamps will help quite a bit to stitch in front and behind the clamp and then move the clamp to the next spot. With four clamps you should be able to keep the gap fairly consistent.

Thank you for the link to the video!!

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)
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Vysoc
post Dec 31 2015, 02:31 PM
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OK the end of December is hear and time for the big update.

What was accomplished in December?

Actually a great deal and I am now well on my way!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

So in December I was able to:
1) Repair 4 different rusted out areas in my tunnel.
2) Cut out and repair the bad remaining sheet metal in my floor pans.
3) Weld in my new Driver's Side Middle brace from Restoration Design.
4) Clean up and treat tunnel and tubes in tunnel with Internal Frame Coating.
5) Strengthen and reinforce Clutch Tube in the tunnel.
6) Fit-Up Driver's & Passenger side Floor pans and then trim
and cut pans in preparation to Butt Weld together.
7) Butt Weld floor pans together and spray primer in preparation for attachment.

Here we go with a few photo's:
Driver's side Mid Tunnel Repair piece
Attached Image
Pass Side Front Firewall Repair
Attached Image
Pass Side Front Tunnel Repair Area
Attached Image
Pass Side Tunnel Repair Piece Fabbed Up
Attached Image
Both Pieces Welded in and Rough Grinding done
Attached Image
Clutch Tube strengthening, looked at the original and created this with 16 gaugeAttached Image
Fit-Up of Driver's Side Middle Brace (Restoration Design Piece 355L)
Attached Image
Fit-Up of Pass Side Middle Tunnel Repair
Attached Image
Right after initial welds to both
Attached Image
Grinding done
Attached Image
I think that will hold?
Attached Image
Initial Fit-Up and tack down of Floor Pans done in place. Please note the Cleco's doing their job they are the best!
Attached Image
Once tacked we were able to rotate the rotiserrie and then start to stich the seam
together
Attached Image
I called in the BIG GUNS for this job!
Dr. Kristoph Kinzli many of you may be familiar with his amazing thread on Pelican called "Saving the Rat" a 66 page journey about his beautiful 1969 911T that he found in a field in Northern New Mexico. Kristoph took the car through an amazing transformation and drives it to his Engineering job at Florida Gulf Coast University on a daily basis. I cannot thank Kristoph enough as his enthusiasm has helped me to get going on my project. He has 3 children under the age of 2 so he is very busy, we did get a lot done on Monday Floor pan wise though.
Attached Image
We did a lot of stitch welds on the seam but also decided to add some 16 gauge plates along the flat ribs to just OVER-Engineer it a little! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Attached Image
Kristoph was loving the chance to get some welding time in!
Attached Image
Prior to grinding down the seam
Attached Image
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Vysoc
post Dec 31 2015, 02:38 PM
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Vysoc
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Close-Up of 16 gauge plates
Attached Image
Initial grinding of the seam
Attached Image
Another angle of grind
Attached Image
Inside of Tunnel before Rust Proofing
Attached Image
Eastwood Internal Green Rust Proofing Stuff
Attached Image
Outside of Seam in Black Primer
Attached Image
Thanks for looking Happy New Year to everyone in 2016 keep the momentum going and see you at Okteenerfest 2016!!!

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)
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Vysoc
post Apr 10 2016, 10:46 AM
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Master's Sunday, my little white car is sold and left for England this past Tuesday.

Finally I can get back to the Yellow Sub.

Spring is a great time as our Snowbirds have started to make their migration back North we can begin to enjoy our area again and I can finally start to burn some serious metal and finish my rustoration work.

Happy Spring for those that like golf enjoy the Master's today!!

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Jul 25 2016, 12:15 PM
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Peter,
any progress on the yellow submarine??, or are you playing too much golf down there in florida?? HOT up here in Sc,! is it going to be ready for the Okteenerfest?
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Vysoc
post Jul 25 2016, 06:47 PM
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Hello Dr. Phil,

Actually worked on strengthening the firewall today for the 914-6 Engine mount, other than that big changes happening this fall.
The house is for sale and we are going to relocate to Northern Georgia/Southern North Carolina. Time for an Early Retirement Career Change thing, I have worked in the Golf Business for 41 years and need a break from adult day care in Florida. I have always wanted to live in the mountains and my wife and I ARE going to do so. The fact that we can sell our house here and move up to a beautiful area, where I can also buy or build the shop set-up I want is a big bonus. I will miss this years Okteenerfest but will be back next year with a mean and lean 914-6 GT Clone type car. I cannot wait to get away from the heat and humidity of Florida. I know everyone wants to live in Florida and I did for 30 years, at 53 I am too young to retire but not to young to have a career change. I am looking forward to the future, once the house sells we will be on our way. Sleepy Fort Myers is getting a little too big, bunch of punks opened fire last night with a semi-automatic gun on a Night Club with an under aged event .....2 dead, 17 injured as young a 12 years old, what the hell is going on?

Hope all is well with your project.

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Vysoc
post Jun 13 2017, 08:21 PM
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Update: June 13, 2017

New storage Unit rented today 20' x 40', my 914-6 GT Project gets to move from its packed 10 x 30 quarters to where I can go back to work.

Time to get back to work, Okteenerfest coming only 20 miles away, too big of an ask to have this one done though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) .



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) Start back at it tomorrow!

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Dion
post Jun 13 2017, 09:14 PM
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Nice to hear your back at it Peter. Hope the move went smoothly.
Look forward to seeing your progress.
Cheers
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Vysoc
post Jun 15 2017, 07:57 PM
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Thanks Dion,

Building new movable workbenches as I am renting the 20 x 40 unit and waiting to find the perfect Barn / Pole Barn scenario to buy.

Feels good to have some space to work and not deal with the humidity of SW Florida.

Back at it tomorrow!

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