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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: MichiganMat
MichiganMat
post May 8 2018, 02:15 PM
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Video updates of the SSM-to-CAN Arduino project! I've got a working digital dash for the 914 now, which Im pretty excited about. I just have a few basic signals being sent to the dash but adding new ones is a simple as flashing the arduino with new code, then updating the dash app to read and interpret the new CAN packet. Easy-peasey.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5HfEexC8aQ



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfkFrv7F5E4
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MichiganMat
post Aug 27 2018, 03:03 PM
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Made a few changes recently:
• Added a front tow-hook
• Blacked out the front trim
• Installed a glass windshield, blacked the trim
• Added some badge stickers
• Finished up lighting wiring: front and rear illumination bulbs are working

The car is ready to drive and I've done some testing around the neighborhood, but its short and quick stuff until I can get it plated. Im working with the DMV right now to get a title but it'll take about 90 days, fingers crossed it gets solved without a hitch. Im ready to shake down the car, but Id rather do it on the streets near my house instead of on a far-away race track, so Im going to wait for the plates before hammering on it. Im sad that the car won't see track time this year but, well, thats life.

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Mueller
post Aug 27 2018, 04:28 PM
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Cars looking great.

What advantage does the racecapture offer over just plugging in bluetooth OBD reader and use Torque Pro for a display?
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MichiganMat
post Aug 27 2018, 08:21 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Aug 27 2018, 03:28 PM) *

Cars looking great.

What advantage does the racecapture offer over just plugging in bluetooth OBD reader and use Torque Pro for a display?


Thanks for the kind words.

Loads of features with the Racecapture module & app. Built-in GPS so it has predictive lap-timing on any track. Support for cameras (i.e. GoPro) to turn them on when the car is on-track. Fully configurable for any car, so friends can borrow it. Its programmable so you can tell it when to change the color of, say, the RPM gauge, on different value ranges. There are just loads of things that are great about the RCP hardware and app, check them out.
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MichiganMat
post Nov 18 2018, 12:01 AM
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It lives.

First track day for the car is in the books. A few thoughts:
• The combo of the MR2 shifter + ZeroDB linkage is not great. The throw is way too short and I missed the 4-to-5 shift twice, nearly blew up the motor.
• I need to rebuild the brakes, they are terrible.
• The chassis / suspension setup needs major tuning, the car was wanting to swap ends on every turn-in
• The WRX motor and trans is fantastic. Smooth power, and loads of it.
• The RaceCapture module + Fire tablet worked flawlessly all day.


Spun the holy-hell out of the car coming out of the carousel. The chassis setup needs to be updated ASAP, its just too twitchy to drive with any confidence. I missed turn-in's all day because of how sketchy the rear of the car felt. That, combined with the terrible brakes and the scary-turbo-power made for a tricky, worrying, anxiety-filled day.

Looking forward to sorting out the brakes, shifter, and suspension. Im hoping it will make a huge difference and bring the car to a much better place.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN0pI9DFoT0
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raynekat
post Nov 18 2018, 12:34 AM
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Car looks and sounds great.
Yeah, get that handling and braking figured out and you'll have a great little car there.
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MichiganMat
post Nov 18 2018, 08:53 AM
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Heres a pic of the car in the paddock @ Sonoma. She looked the business even if she drove like a manic-depressive rodeo bull.

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ConeDodger
post Nov 18 2018, 09:11 AM
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P
QUOTE(MichiganMat @ Nov 18 2018, 03:01 AM) *

It lives.

First track day for the car is in the books. A few thoughts:
• The combo of the MR2 shifter + ZeroDB linkage is not great. The throw is way too short and I missed the 4-to-5 shift twice, nearly blew up the motor.
• I need to rebuild the brakes, they are terrible.
• The chassis / suspension setup needs major tuning, the car was wanting to swap ends on every turn-in
• The WRX motor and trans is fantastic. Smooth power, and loads of it.
• The RaceCapture module + Fire tablet worked flawlessly all day.


Spun the holy-hell out of the car coming out of the carousel. The chassis setup needs to be updated ASAP, its just too twitchy to drive with any confidence. I missed turn-in's all day because of how sketchy the rear of the car felt. That, combined with the terrible brakes and the scary-turbo-power made for a tricky, worrying, anxiety-filled day.

Looking forward to sorting out the brakes, shifter, and suspension. Im hoping it will make a huge difference and bring the car to a much better place.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN0pI9DFoT0


QUOTE


Mat,
I was so excited to see the video that I watched it before I read the text. My first thought was why did he spin there? But after the video was over and I read the text, I see. Bad brakes and no suspension set-up.
Cars got really great potential though! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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914forme
post Nov 18 2018, 09:50 AM
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Great to see the car get out on the track, that is a big day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Time to get to sorting all the issues out, nobody nails this right on the money. Everyone likes their cars setup slightly different.

Modify the shifter. Extended the lever to increase the perceived throw, move the cable points so that it increases the throw, that is pretty easy one. Lots of 818 guys run this setup with out issue. BTW, in two different shifters where made from Toyota, early cars had a longer throw, the later cars got it shortened up. If you used after market short throw kits they are not know to be the best quality and can add some error to the movement.

Suspension start with alignment, and worn components. To make an educated guess we would need to know what you're running for all the various bits and pieces.
Spring rates in the back
Running a rear swaybar? If yes size
Running a front sway bar? I hope so, If yes size
Torsion Bar size
Shocks - settings come into play, and valving.
Bushings in the Front
Bushings in the Rear
Tire sizes front and rear also come into play

My one suggestion is document everything as it sits now, and build out a list from there, and change one thing at a time, then recheck the alignment.


You most likely know all this stuff, just wanting to help get the car sorted fast here is a simple cheat sheet, image quality is poor.

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MichiganMat
post Nov 18 2018, 11:27 AM
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• Rear: 250lb Swift springs over new Bilstein struts
• Front: 23mm t-bars
• Plastic bushings, front and rear
• No sway-bars, front or rear
• 8" front, 9.5" rear wheels, Direzza Star-spec tires, from my 911.
Everything in the suspension is brand new.

Recently had the car aligned, my wrench encouraged me to lower the car to get more rear camber, Im at 2 degrees in the rear.
I run sway-bars front and rear on my 911 and they make a huge difference, may think about using them on the 914.

I remember my 911 being really twitchy on turn-in before I started tightening up the sway-bars, a small front and rear adjustment calmed the car down immensely. Its a bit what I was feeling yesterday: tail-happy, scary on turn-in, rear wanting to come around.

Wish I could get more camber in the rear but the exhaust header and oil pan are pretty close the ground as it sits now :/

- m

QUOTE(914forme @ Nov 18 2018, 07:50 AM) *

Great to see the car get out on the track, that is a big day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Time to get to sorting all the issues out, nobody nails this right on the money. Everyone likes their cars setup slightly different.

Modify the shifter. Extended the lever to increase the perceived throw, move the cable points so that it increases the throw, that is pretty easy one. Lots of 818 guys run this setup with out issue. BTW, in two different shifters where made from Toyota, early cars had a longer throw, the later cars got it shortened up. If you used after market short throw kits they are not know to be the best quality and can add some error to the movement.

Suspension start with alignment, and worn components. To make an educated guess we would need to know what you're running for all the various bits and pieces.
Spring rates in the back
Running a rear swaybar? If yes size
Running a front sway bar? I hope so, If yes size
Torsion Bar size
Shocks - settings come into play, and valving.
Bushings in the Front
Bushings in the Rear
Tire sizes front and rear also come into play

My one suggestion is document everything as it sits now, and build out a list from there, and change one thing at a time, then recheck the alignment.


You most likely know all this stuff, just wanting to help get the car sorted fast here is a simple cheat sheet, image quality is poor.

Attached Image
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914forme
post Nov 18 2018, 02:00 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Add a front sway bar NOW!!!!!!!!

Nice adjustable one, several sources, Us cheap people that like to fabricate stuff use Nascar hand me downs. If you build one your self make it adjustable.

That will most likely solve you wanting to swap ends issue.



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MichiganMat
post Nov 18 2018, 02:03 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Nov 18 2018, 12:00 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Add a front sway bar NOW!!!!!!!!

Nice adjustable one, several sources, Us cheap people that like to fabricate stuff use Nascar hand me downs. If you build one your self make it adjustable.

That will most likely solve you wanting to swap ends issue.


Yeah, I figured as much. The rest of my setup checks out though, yes? 23mm + 250lbs?

Seems like the used Nascar market has dried up a bit. I remember seeing loads of used lexan windshields and carbon splitters up on eBay, haven't seen any for like 2 years now. I've only heard rumor of using Nascar / circle-track sways on these cars, I've not tried yet. Will likely toss a Tarret in the front, I like the one I have in my 911.
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mepstein
post Nov 18 2018, 02:11 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Nov 18 2018, 03:00 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Add a front sway bar NOW!!!!!!!!

Nice adjustable one, several sources, Us cheap people that like to fabricate stuff use Nascar hand me downs. If you build one your self make it adjustable.

That will most likely solve you wanting to swap ends issue.

That was my first thought and second and third.
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914forme
post Nov 18 2018, 02:14 PM
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I missed the lowered car part, it is fine to lower the car, but to do it right lots of things have to change.

On the front you can do it a bit with the Torsion bar adjustments, but to get full travel you need to raise the spindles.

On the rear you can use adjustable perches, but the way the rear is setup lowering the rear cause all sorts of changes in the back of a 914. You might have to go higher, cheap solution. Or raise the pickup point, cut the arms.

Best guy I know to talk to about this stuff is @ChrisFoley . He also makes all the stuff to solve the issues you're having.

BTW, running stock Bilsteins with larger rear springs and front torsion bars means they should be shipped to Bilstein and be revalved for proper dampening. Factory offers the service, and they are right there in CA. When I did mine it was I think $50 per shock. They had to mill my heat on coil over thread adapter. Made a huge difference in the suspension dampening.
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914forme
post Nov 18 2018, 02:23 PM
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I think your close on the spring rates.

Stock with a smallish sway was like 90lbs front and lots of arguments about the rear, but 100 lbs aftermarket springs seem to be the norm.

Back several pages I gave you the spring rates, I would think your close enough to get where you want to be with a swaybar.

BTW, you can pickup the round round bits new also.

Chris also has swaybars and all the bits you need for the installation. 914LTD makes the best kit for reinforcement of the bar mounts. LOL I used one of Mad Dogs units way overkill after I did roller bearings as I get no binding of the bar, the binding is what puts the stress on the mounting area. So for my installation the Mad dog unit was / is overkill. Thing I like about the 914LTD mount is not cutting up the box section below the tank. I used one of them on my fathers 914-6, installation was easy.
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tazz9924
post Nov 18 2018, 03:40 PM
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QUOTE(MichiganMat @ Apr 11 2016, 09:25 PM) *

Busy couple of days!

Bought a WRX fuel sender/filter/pump and modified it to work in the 914 tank.
Cut and bent the lower portion downwards to fit well and pull from the lowest portion of the tank.
Modified the internals of the tank, pulled out some baffles, and welded up the bottom.
Installed an aluminum inner ring and then riv-nut'd that in to give support to the tank area.
Bought a fuel filler neck, more on that later...

Next up was the air outlet through the hood.
Cut a nice big hole and fab'ed up as best I could an outlet vent.
I need to work on my aluminum welding, I've done better work :/ But it'll do for now.
I plan to finish it in black paint and mount externally. It'll be industrial looking, and functional.

I was also able to get the front lower lip mounted, the drivers rocker, and the rear trunk hood pins all attached. Pics aren't too sexy so maybe I'll skip 'em for now.

Next up: fuel filler neck install on the tank and through the hood, put the rotisserie back on the front of the car, fit and mount the rear bumper, reinforce the drivers-side dog-ear, and buy a bunch more parts, haha









Late to the party but im curious if you have ducting from the outlet of your radiator to the vent coming out the hood? Im gonna make a vent like that so an image with the hood open for inspiration would help me out if you could
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FourBlades
post Nov 22 2018, 01:33 PM
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Great project, love the look of the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Tarret makes great stuff for 914s.

John
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Andyrew
post Nov 26 2018, 09:00 AM
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Your setup sounds exactly like mine and your experience at the track sounds like mine as well! My car had slow turn in response as well as a tendancy for what felt like understeer but it never lost front grip. The rear on the other hand would spin the inside tire on any throttle adjustment mid/late corner. We were probably similar for power as my boost was on the wastegate and my confidence level in the car was extremely low.

I've been thinking that the fix is to finish up my nascar front sway bar as well as see about some more toe/camber/sticky rubber.
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MichiganMat
post Nov 26 2018, 03:42 PM
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QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Nov 18 2018, 01:40 PM) *

Late to the party but im curious if you have ducting from the outlet of your radiator to the vent coming out the hood? Im gonna make a vent like that so an image with the hood open for inspiration would help me out if you could


Its nothing special, just an open hole, heh. I haven't seen the need (yet!) to fully enshroud and duct the radiator out of the hood, so I just made an opening and bolted it in. Maybe if theres a real need (aero, efficiency, etc) for something better, I'll add more shrouding to it. But really, its a race-car, I don't mind if its a bit rough around the edges (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)




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MichiganMat
post Nov 26 2018, 03:45 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Nov 26 2018, 07:00 AM) *

Your setup sounds exactly like mine and your experience at the track sounds like mine as well! My car had slow turn in response as well as a tendancy for what felt like understeer but it never lost front grip. The rear on the other hand would spin the inside tire on any throttle adjustment mid/late corner. We were probably similar for power as my boost was on the wastegate and my confidence level in the car was extremely low.

I've been thinking that the fix is to finish up my nascar front sway bar as well as see about some more toe/camber/sticky rubber.


Im going to throw some $ at it and get the front Tarett bar, it made a huge difference in the handing of my 911 so Im truly hoping for a dramatic change in the character of this 914. Its... undrivable in its current form. The hyper-aggressive turn-in, coupled with a tail that has no grip is just too much to wrangle on a racetrack.

If you get there before me, let me know what find, Im curious.
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