I was given a Metal Lathe., Help me choose projects. Options

[porschetub]

[quote name='Mueller' post='2285347' date='Jan 5 2016, 09:23 AM']
[quote name='Series9' post='2285343' date='Jan 4 2016, 12:14 PM']
[quote name='veekry9' post='2285327' date='Jan 4 2016, 02:19 PM']

The machine you have for cheap must be supported by the acquiring of tools of telemetry,500$ basically to start.
Electric drills and saws may be your experience to date,and if so,a period of training is needed,because it's the right thing to do.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[/quote]

So funny but not ,the same thing happened in our machine shop the apprentice started the lathe with 3 jaw chuck key in and the guy next door wore it in the nose,blood everywhere...he had a few days off to recover.
Seen some nasty accidents with hot swarf (turnings) sticking to faces or people clearing swarf and receiving nasty cuts to the bone,this stuff can be very hot and super sharp.
Enjoy your lathe ,there is so much you can do with them,but safety is foremost

[veekry9]

Well,a trick to the key is:
Every time you engage the spindle,

"Say Key Please"

rhymes with "say cheese please".
Getting a chuck key in the eye is a harsh first lesson.
Danger will robinson,Danger.

[Series9]

Well,a trick to the key is:
Every time you engage the spindle,

"Say Key Please"

rhymes with "say cheese please".
Getting a chuck key in the eye is a harsh first lesson.
Danger will robinson,Danger.

There's something I can use. I don't respond to 90% of your posts because most are so far beyond my current skill level that I just say (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

I have walked up to the lathe and witnessed the key in the chuck and then thought about the consequences. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)

[veekry9]

Try this,turn your crossfeed handle into the tailstock or chuck(off).
Be certain neither of those immovable objects move.
Use medium pressure.
With a felt pen ,mark the dial at 0.
Gently,turn out until you get movement indicated.
Read off the difference,that is your backlash clearance on the crossfeed acme screw.
0.005" is like new,0.030" is buggered,the crossfeed saddle must be linear in movement to .0005".
Don't worry,it,the aluminum-bronze threaded crossfeed nut may be replaced or repaired.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_forms

Fun isn't it?

[jd74914]

They actually make self-ejecting keys; the machine shops at school have them to keep kids from throwing keys. They are the most frustrating things in the world when you're trying to delicately clamp something though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181249515436?...=ps&lpid=82

[veekry9]

See?
Someone is always coming up with a better mousetrap.
Not once did the idea come to mind,because we always remove it before turning.
An idiot proof chuck key would be a hot seller.
Kudos.

[nathansnathan]

When I first got my South Bend, it was a whole new experience for me as I'd only used production lathes with carbide insert quick change tooling and cnc controls - it's very different with a home lathe using hss bits that can be sharpened. I often use the 4 way switching tool holder seen below. Sometimes the old school tool holders can be more versatile, but I can only use 1/4" bits that way, where the 4 way can handle 3/8" bits.

The most important aspect to forming bits is the end clearance angle. If there is not enough, the tool will ride on the part, bit gets hot and dulls quick. Too much angle and you also have a bit that will dull prematurely.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.metalartspress.com-11782-1455115662.1.gif)

It's helpful to get preformed bits if you're just starting out. It gives you something to go by, just grind the same shape further down the bit.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#lathe-bits/=112bdwg

Parting is the hardest operation. The trick is flood coolant.

My 1931 south bend.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1291419672.10.jpg)

[veekry9]

Nice condition.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Series9]

Try this,turn your crossfeed handle into the tailstock or chuck(off).
Be certain neither of those immovable objects move.
Use medium pressure.
With a felt pen ,mark the dial at 0.
Gently,turn out until you get movement indicated.
Read off the difference,that is your backlash clearance on the crossfeed acme screw.
0.005" is like new,0.030" is buggered,the crossfeed saddle must be linear in movement to .0005".
Don't worry,it,the aluminum-bronze threaded crossfeed nut may be replaced or repaired.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_forms

Fun isn't it?

I tried this a few times. I would say mine has about .010" or so.

[mbseto]

They actually make self-ejecting keys; the machine shops at school have them to keep kids from throwing keys. They are the most frustrating things in the world when you're trying to delicately clamp something though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

My drill press came with one of these. It made my brain itch. After much thought I took it apart and removed the spring for this reason: I don't ever want to be in someone else's shop without a strongly ingrained habit of removing the chuck key.

[Series9]

Here it is! My first part to go into service. It's a custom hub spacer for a T34 swing-axle car that has T1 rear brakes.

Yes, it took me 4.5 hours to make.

What did I learn?

Start with a piece of metal that's as close to the finished size as possible.

The 1.75" OD on this started as a "free" 3" solid piece of round stock.

[Series9]

Installed:

[Darren C]

Not bad attempt there Joe,

Watch the outside diameter.
Original bushes are precision ground to a fine micron finish where the lip seal runs.
A turned finish using a HSS tool with coolant will not be good enough.
It'll wear the lip seal within a few miles and your brake hub will be full of oil.

[Series9]

Not bad attempt there Joe,

Watch the outside diameter.
Original bushes are precision ground to a fine micron finish where the lip seal runs.
A turned finish using a HSS tool with coolant will not be good enough.
It'll wear the lip seal within a few miles and your brake hub will be full of oil.

After that amount of time at the lathe, we are not calling this an "attempt".


I polished it before installation. We'll see how it goes.

At least the brakes work correctly and the axles turn smoothly.


I'm looking into carbide and ceramic bits. I would definitely like to turn something that comes out like it was polished in the lathe.

I did discover that turning slowly works better for larger bites during the rough process, and spinning the piece quickly for a light pass produces a nicer finish.

[r_towle]

I think the clock is really the first production piece

[Series9]

I think the clock is really the first production piece

It's not yet a clock and it doesn't contribute to the operation of anything. It is simply a reminder to me that the lathe is much more complicated than it appears. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[r_towle]

Well, keeping time is important.

I think it's pretty cool you made a custom part for a client, well done go have a beer

[Series9]

Here are my tail stock parts.

I don't see a way to mount the drill chuck. Is this called a Morse Taper?

What size is it? I need to find the piece to mount the chuck in the tail stock.

[nathansnathan]

You need an arbor that goes from morse taper to jacobs taper probably. Looks like morse taper 3 from here. Here's a link to some dimensions you can check to be sure
http://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php

Some chucks are threaded, too, though.
here's the page at mcmaster-carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-arbors/=116h0wj

[r_towle]

threaded chuck?

Rich