I was given a Metal Lathe., Help me choose projects. Options

[Series9]

keep your hand on the emergency shut off,

I never keep my hand on that switch. To do so would mean that my head is in line with the chuck.

Yeah, I'm not doing that. If something flings off, it might make a hole in the wall, but my head will not be a target.

They should put the switch at the tailstock end...

[Series9]

Somehow it looked like the 1st chuck was clamping on a taper and you were using a live center in the tailstock to hold it concentric. -I see now that's not the case. If it was, well yeah that would be really unsafe.

3 and 4 jaw chucks aren't nearly as secure as a true collet system, 3 jaw especially - and to run 2 doubles the risk. I've pulled some plastic parts right out of a 3 jaw, like deforming the part. No gaurds on these old school lathes, one becomes wary. You need to develop a healthy respect for the lathe whatever size. Here's the Bridgeport EZ path I crashed. It was never the same after that. I can say, "picture it leaping off the ground" but there's no substitute for actually crashing a lathe to instill the fear that is required to run one with the proper mindset.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img.machinio.com-11782-1456260002.1.jpeg)

It's a wedding ring. I was using the live center to push it up against the (assumed) square jaws of the small chuck in order to create enough friction for the ring to continue spinning when I started cutting.

And, WOW, you saw that lathe hop around?!!

I hope to never see that.

[nathansnathan]

It's a wedding ring. I was using the live center to push it up against the (assumed) square jaws of the small chuck in order to create enough friction for the ring to continue spinning when I started cutting.

And, WOW, you saw that lathe hop around?!!

I hope to never see that.

Boss man used to say, "Things go south real quick". Words to live by as a machinist. I wouldn't chuck anything like that ever again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You're lucky it didn't get mangled, seriously. It's kind of hard to turn something like that without a collet system, but i'd chuck it in the lathe and use a stop to make it sit flat against the chuck. A dial test indicator, like I said before, is handy to check that it's actually running true. 3 jaw is finicky though, too much feed, you mangle the part. I haven't turned much Titanium, seems tough.

Lathe hopped once. It hadn't hit the ground before I hit the cutoff switch - I guess that's another better thing about a cnc lathe, when you do the hard cuts nothing else to do but cover the switch.

I remember turning some sensors from big ass stainless hex stock. Was running like 5 lathes, but when this one got to that operation, I'd cover the cutoff through the whole operation - ridiculous cost when things do go south, taking out inserts, tool holders, chuck jaws, stuff gives you nightmares. In production, you watch your offsets, if they start moving, can be a false edge, things can go wrong real quick, check your tool for burn. With 1 time setups, every cut is one to be wary of.

[Series9]

I wouldn't chuck anything like that ever again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I wish I could tell you that will never happen again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) And, the ring wasn't chucked. It was "friction confined" (my new proprietary term).

[Series9]

Darkside Turning's first T-shirts will be called the 10-finger edition. I will put an impression of my hands on each sleeve.

Don't be left holding the bag when the 9-finger edition comes out. Get yours now.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


If you pre-order your 9-finger shirt, I guarantee the first three will be stained with my actual blood. I'm sure they will sell well in the UK.

[Series9]

“Darkside Turning” good name!

I’ll have the first T shirt ;-)

Will it have your face on it, like when Vader takes his helmet off to show your lathe scars?

As for British “sense of humor”, I think you’ll find its spelt “Humour”, we invented the language..

That's what you call….”The Empire (British Empire) Strikes Back” :-) :-) :-)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Darren, you and I are now officially friends.

Here you go:

[veekry9]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

[veekry9]

You're a ginger too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
What a fluke,no relation to Sith,I'm guessing.
Looks like that fla sun is a little harsh on that northern complexion.
That was too easy,a kind of rip,lacking originality.
How bout Serious9 Turning,a subsidiary of Series9.
That way serious people will flock to your door rather than to the flimflam flybynight con artist shop,down the street.

Find an old retired machinist to teach you how to first-
1. grind cutter edges
2. set up a cutter in the toolpost at correct height and angles. . that's a 4 way toolpost and requires shimming cutters to correct height
3. show you the correct chuck rpm speed and correct cutter feed speed. The tendency is to turn too fast.
4. after all those, start on PVC or wood. . .
5 remember no matter how fast you think your reactions, hands and fingers are,
the chuck is always faster and a lot stronger.

It's not rocket science but it's easy to hurt yourself badly. . You might want to start
by positioning the machine and leveling the bed. Then make sure the headstock is parallel and perpendicular to the bed and center of tailstock. Determine the off center runout of the chuck. .Those Chinese chucks are usually spec'ed at .003 off center as the normal limit when new . If not set up properly, no matter what you do, your finished project will have taper and be out of square and off center.

Some good experienced advice,then,'secure' the machine to the floor.
An unbalanced load may tip the machine over.
A mod we did with the Hardinge toolroom turret lathes was 'pan' them.
A sheetmetal steel pan braked and welded watertight,large enough for the machine's footprint,3-4" dp.
The pan should not intrude into the operators footspace,the pan's floor sloped to the back,the rear of the pan's lip sloped.
A giant pool of swarf and sour coolant on the floor is thus avoided.
When he says level and square,he means dead level perfect,not merely carpenter.
Sit it down on 3 points,2 at the headstock end,to minimize twist.
Shim to interference all around for good stability and drill for anchors into the concrete.
You'll need an accurate level in your toolbox eventually,for serious work.

http://www.penntoolco.com/mitutoyo-digital...o-360-pro-3600/
950-318 Mitutoyo Pro 3600 Digital Protractor Level $385.00

A laser level can get it close,a laser transit will do better.
http://www.exactmachineservice.com/cnc-laser-alignment/
They may know someone in fla.
/

[Series9]

The moment you learn to speak English/American/Canadian, I would love to hear what you have to say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[r_towle]

Shirts should say "turning stuff into shit"
Or "turning shit into stuff"

[veekry9]

From the Latin.
Plagiarism:plagiarism is the "wrongful appropriation" and "stealing and publication" of another author's "language, thoughts,ideas,
or expressions" and the representation of them as one's own original work.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plagiarism
'It isn't brass you ass',an observation by journeymen of apprentice's errors.
Not knowing the difference is a signal of ignorance and or negligence,a result of lack of knowledge.
Attempting to machine and sell an aircraft part without the oversight and endorsement of an Engineer is a felony,punishable by life imprisonment.
The material selection of vital automotive components likewise,requires an engineer's approval,as a failure of control parts causing harm,may be grounds for prosecution.
Discovering a trig error in a preliminary ruf op,it was determined that the entire 900kg lot of S5000 was scrapped.
The machinist responsible was questioned,he attempted to cover his ass,not wishing to be held accountable,he was.
I learned a few years later from a disgruntled journeyman,a former employee,that they had replaced the material with 4340,the availability of that specified,untimely.
The switch was discovered by the client,a suit was brought,the vendor forced into surrender and loss.Military helicopter flight control components.
http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMater...?bassnum=M434AE
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_spectrometry
http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a231588.pdf
http://standards.sae.org/amss5000/
Caveat emptor.
http://www.goltens.com/in-situ-machining/f...ing-on-schedule
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babbitt_(alloy)
To something like this,actually,exactly like this,steel mill shears to heavy crushers and their power transmission gears,shafts and boxes.
Hydrostatic conversions are economical life extenders,for heavily loaded shafts,on legacy large capital equipment.
Several decades later,I recall,a 44"ID bearing was repaired in record time,prompting the prez to remark to the gm,"Now he's a machinist!".
He made it worth my while,we continued until he retired the chair and passed away shortly afterwards,a decent selfmade man,100M+.
Having had the privilege of working with these men over the course of four decades and more,a common attribute is a low tolerance for bs.
Clearly,some of the 'advice'extended here by charlatans and neophytes is of that nature.
/

[Mueller]

Fantastic information. Some of the tools have a wax-like protective coating on the tips. That's probably what you're seeing as "poor resolution".

Again you’re most welcome!
The wax on the tool ends comes on new HSS tools to protect them in transit and storage, so hopefully if the cutting edge is intact, they should be good to go.
As Nathan says Carbide, Ceramic tool tips come in box sets 6, 10 12 etc and at $20 a tip it’s a big initial expense. You also need the correct tool holder that can be anything from $50 to $200 to fit them in.
Yes you flip them once the edge is chipped so you get 2 or 3 cutting sides per tip but you CANNOT sharpen them, just throw them in the trash can. Speed, feed, material, angle and depth of cut need to be right for these type of tools (as Nathan has said) they chip and break real easy.
Generally used for high spindle speed turning 1000rpm upwards by operators with a good knowledge.
This is why I’m steering you away from this type of tool as a beginner. Besides you can do pretty much everything you need at home with HSS tools for less cost and lower lathe speeds.

If you ever see a pot of this stuff don't be tempted to stick your finger into it like one could do with a melting candle!

Much, much hotter and it doesn't come off as easily...and no, I didn't do it. Some other knuckle head did it a few years ago in our tool cutter and grinder shop.

[Series9]

Fantastic information. Some of the tools have a wax-like protective coating on the tips. That's probably what you're seeing as "poor resolution".

If you ever see a pot of this stuff don't be tempted to stick your finger into it like one could do with a melting candle!

Much, much hotter and it doesn't come off as easily...and no, I didn't do it. Some other knuckle head did it a few years ago in our tool cutter and grinder shop.

Is he on the "9 Finger Edition" of his T-shirts? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


You guys are warning and warning me about how dangerous machine shops can be, but they appear to be filled, at least partially ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) with idiots.

[Series9]

Got the new tool post.

Now I have to take the base to a machine shop with a mill to cut the base of the T nut.

Dammit.

[Series9]

Two questions:

Given a narrow bushing, like a clutch pulley on a 914:

How do you accurately chuck something so thin?

How do you chuck this in a way that you can machine the outer diameter?

I have a feeling that the answer is to make a tool to insert in the chuck and then mount the bushing with a bolt.

[Series9]

Perhaps a better route to this question:

If I were going to make this bushing from brass, I think the steps would be:

1. Chuck up some solid brass stock.

2. Face the end.

3. Bore the inner diameter.

4. Turn the outer diameter.

5. Create the contour on the face (although it's not necessary to the finished piece).

6. Groove the OD for the cable.

7. Part the pulley from the parent stock, leaving a small amount to turn the other face.

8. Then what? How do I put it back in the lathe in a way that I can turn a parallel face on the parted side?

[toolguy]

How to hold something on the inside with a small diameter
Use expanding arbor collets, just another in the line of the many tools you'll need. .

How to hold thin wall tube. . . 6 jaw chuck is best, make percision inside bushing so you don't distort the tube.

[914forme]

Got the new tool post.

Now I have to take the base to a machine shop with a mill to cut the base of the T nut.

Dammit.

Wow that is an old school Apple Mouse

[Mikey914]

You have the right idea, we did leave off the grove detail on the delrin ones as it's not necessary, and would require a second operation to add to the back side. We finish off the back side on the part off.

[Series9]

You have the right idea, we did leave off the grove detail on the delrin ones as it's not necessary, and would require a second operation to add to the back side. We finish off the back side on the part off.

So, is that a parting tool that contains the profile?