I was given a Metal Lathe., Help me choose projects. Options

[Series9]

You should make a clock out of the rotor and hang it over the lathe......just cause

You're right. I'll do something like that.

[Series9]

I have my first revenue project.

I'll be modifying 914 axles for 944 CVs.

That should be a good one, because .001 precision isn't critical.

Updates will follow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[r_towle]

Oh no....

[veekry9]

Broaching or shaping,rolling or milling?

https://www.google.ca/search?q=spline+shapi...c27AjEQ_AUIBygC
https://www.google.ca/search?q=rope+thread+...rolling+process
https://www.google.ca/search?q=spline+milli..._IjncQ_R52HM%3A
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[mskala]

Or you could trade your lathe for 250 beanie babies...

https://nh.craigslist.org/bar/5416282872.html

[Series9]

Observations from the mind of a beginner on the lathe:


Not having quick-change tools with adjustable height is complete bullshit. That will be corrected shortly.

The "simple" task of chucking a lug nut is not simple at all. It's almost impossible to get them to spin true. I have discovered this is because the bolt head and the threaded shaft are not necessarily manufactured on the same axis. This makes the "easy" task of turning a flat shoulder out of the conical seat very difficult if you want it to be perpendicular to the axis of the threading.

With the (?) tooling I found with the lathe, I can face steel at about 1mm per pass at 260 rpm. If you get greedy or impatient and go for 1.5mm per pass, you will be looking for another tool.

I ruined a parting tool, so I need more information on its correct use. Once I ruin the tip on a parting blade, how do I fix/sharpen it again? Can I?

On a positive note, I was able to put that brake rotor I ruined back on the machine. I got the wheel face turning within .001" and was then able to make the braking surfaces do the same. On my previous effort, I had managed to turn the outer face to a runout of .006" and the inner face to .01". Ouch. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[r_towle]

Nice clock

[Series9]

I don't want to pay the price, but it looks like I'll be buying an Aloris BXA tool post and holders. I found a set for around $650, but I'm still shopping for used.

Chinese sets can be had for less than half that, but I think I'll eventually replace my Chinese lathe with a good one, so I might as well start assembling good tooling.

[toolguy]

Look at KDK style first. . much better and a lot easier to use. . there use to
be a seller that had Tiawan copies which are just as good. . holders are about $20 each. . It's the toolpost that is expensive. . Get the 100 size

This is an excellent deal. . full set with 8 holders $350 buy it now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-KDK-100-Quic...VUAAOSwHQ9WZ2KZ

[jd74914]

Look at KDK style first.

Those are so cool without the big bar on top to get in the way. Never seen one around here though; maybe it's a west coast thing?

[Series9]

Look at KDK style first. . much better and a lot easier to use. . there use to
be a seller that had Tiawan copies which are just as good. . holders are about $20 each. . It's the toolpost that is expensive. . Get the 100 size

This is an excellent deal. . full set with 8 holders $350 buy it now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-KDK-100-Quic...VUAAOSwHQ9WZ2KZ

Where is the height adjustment on those?

[ChrisFoley]

I use Aloris BX series. They have sales on a regular basis.

I use their .087 wide carbide parting tool inserts (with someone else's holder I think).

[toolguy]

Where is the height adjustment on those?

There are allen set screw in the top and bottom. . these can be turned over so 2 cutters can be set up in 1 holder. .each side with different heights

Yes, these are primarily a West Coast thing. . all the areospace industries of the 90's used them. . can't understand why they never caught on in the East. .

[nathansnathan]

I like to use what's called a "dial test indicator" for setting up stuff on a lathe.... different than a "dial indicator". The feeler nub has less range of motion but it springs back to position on its own.

About the issue with the lugs having multiple axis for the heads/threads, you can use a 4 jaw independent chuck, vs the universal 3 jaw. They take longer to set up but more accurate. The test indicator becomes very handy with an independent chuck.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.longislandindicator.com-11782-1454111858.1.jpeg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.mini-lathe.org.uk-11782-1454111859.2.jpg)

[r_towle]

How can you inform your neighbors that it's noon each day, and practice on the lathe....and impress all your friends.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YH4ereLJWtY

[veekry9]

https://www.google.ca/search?q=lathe+tool+h...Ib7EMPqcWc9M%3A
Quick height setting.
BTW,buy a few sets of feeler gauges as shimpacks,under the tool,handy,< 20$.

(edit:2/09/16)
A boxfull of shims,cut from shipping strappings,burr-less and flat.<5$

How we set our tool IC,circa 1971,1967-VDF Boehringer.Optical Microscope.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...=VDF+Boehringer


Most of all these are all solved techniques,doing it for like,forever.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=wartime+wome...OF9vsdonD5SM%3A

(edit:2/23/16)
https://www.google.ca/search?q=carbide+inse...Nqs2bbXrH_-M%3A

The nose radius of the tool in the picture is not the IC of the tool.
The nose radius is a variable to which compensation is applied on manual,nc and cnc machines,when radii or slopes are machined.
In general,a nose radius imparts it's form to shoulder intersections when using manual machines.
For a larger shoulder radii with a smaller nosed tool,'stair-step' the large rad using trigonometry calculations of gradually finer resolutions.

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[mbseto]

I ruined a parting tool, so I need more information on its correct use. Once I ruin the tip on a parting blade, how do I fix/sharpen it again? Can I?

When I had access to a shop, it seemed like a grinder was pretty much a lathe accessory. We had a stock of blanks and old cutters and the experts could grind new tools or just grind new edges onto old tools with the right relief angles just by eye. I used a template. I think guys doing high quality work were always touching up the edges. IIRC, we frequently dipped the tools in a can of water as we were grinding to keep from losing the temper on the edge.

[veekry9]

Making your own bushings is a handy skill.
Turning(cryogenically) dry-ice or nitrogen frozen rubbers and plastics calls for hss tool grinding and diamond honing.
Form tool geometry for those materials and some light metals requires high positive rake.
A carbide ball tool in a die grinder can create a groove in the top surface of the hss shank,a kind of 'moat'.
The relief flank is then ground to give a .005/.007" wide top face and positive chip rake.



With some practice and a toolmaker's microscope,a <16rms finish can be achieved.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=shadowgraph+...Rz1AvcQ_AUIBigB

http://www.graphalloy.com/html/type_317.html

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(edit:2/23/16)
Generally,the use of old tech is cheap in terms of tooling costs,high in labour for the grinding of tungsten and cobalt HSS,or B-CARs.
The first error with either tool type will destroy the tool and or part,forcing a restart from the beginning.
A brand new indexable insert tool holder will allow some leeway for miscalculated feeds and speeds.
Know what you are doing before the tool touches the part.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=hand+grindin...BxuxkzkYIx6M%3A
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[r_towle]

Seriously

[veekry9]

Thread rolling for fun.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=thread+rolli...I0PmuZ6LetkM%3A

Thread turning on a lathe:
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...urning+on+lathe

Pitch diameter,metric,thread series,3-wire measurements and calculation of fits.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...d+specification



Need to know.
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...d+specification

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