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> Steering rack rebuild, seal and bearing numbers
Mikey914
post Jan 7 2017, 07:49 PM
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Bearing puller. It's been pressed in.
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Olympic 914
post Jan 9 2017, 08:09 AM
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QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Jan 7 2017, 08:47 PM) *

What is the little trick to removing the bearing at the bottom of the steering rack?

I have mine 90% pulled apart and would like to order new bearings and the new seal.

The only parts I haven't removed from the rack are the end bushings and the bottom bearing.



When I did this job I used a carriage bolt that just fit into the bearing, then sliding it to one side and with a piece of angle iron across the top of the steering rack, I pulled the bearing out. you will want to move it from side to side to pull the bearing out evenly..

I seem to remember I dropped a small nut next to the carriage bolt in the center of the bearing to hold it to one side

That is if you don't have a miniscule bearing puller...( I didn't )
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turnaround89
post Jan 9 2017, 12:23 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I ended up buying a beating puller and it worked perfectly.

I searched the bearing and seal part numbers in the previous pictures and was able to locate the necessary parts.

Thanks again!!!!!!
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Mikey914
post Jan 9 2017, 04:21 PM
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One of the reasons I intend to do as a service.
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turnaround89
post Jan 9 2017, 06:06 PM
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Mikey914 - Are you looking into making the bushing as well? I reread the thread and it sounds like you expressed some interest in that!!

Mine are in good shape and weren't leaking so I left them alone, just curious if that will be part of the kit.

I just purchased a new steering column "puck" from you and the headlight bushings. Can't wait to get those parts.
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Mikey914
post Jan 11 2017, 12:24 AM
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I've already made the bushings on the other thread.
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naro914
post Dec 29 2018, 11:50 AM
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I wanted to revive this thread since I am trying to install a quick ratio rack & pinion for Papa Smurf. I took apart the rack to the point where I can’t remove that #10 bushing.

How did you get it out? And if you destroyed it, what did you replace it with? Or did I miss that?

Also...similar to yours, mine is nothing like the one in the thread you referenced, it’s like yours. However, the quick ratio pinion is like the one in the other thread, and is very different than the one in my rack...and cannot be swapped.

Did the racks change at some point?
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bbrock
post Dec 29 2018, 12:52 PM
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I just did this last weekend. That bushing is the oil seal and will need to be replaced regardless of how badly you tear it up. Post #18 in this thread has the size for at least one of the three versions of rack that were used. Mine was a PITA to install because the original seal had an exposed metal outer race that was seized. I used plenty of penetrating oil and some heat before it came loose. Below is the page from the factory manual with the removal procedure. In theory following that procedure should lift the pinyon along with the upper bearing and seal/bushing out of the bore. It didn't go smoothly for me but it at least popped the seal loose enough that I was able to push the pinyon back down (with some difficulty) and finally pry the seal out.

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naro914
post Dec 29 2018, 01:46 PM
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Well...looks like it’s not going to work. The pinion in the quick rack is completely different, and the rack is shorter than mine. So...guess it’s not going to work.

Oh well, nice thought. We put a quick ratio in Huey and it’s really nice. Must have had a different/later rack
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Mikey914
post Dec 29 2018, 09:37 PM
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We’ve found 4 different versions of the racks. Currently have all the variations and will be doing a writ up of a rebuild I’m doing Monday. I can rebuild it for you. We also set the correct tension on the unit when Rowe rebuild them.
Many folks think it’s a simple take apart clean up and replace parts but there are a few variables that can affect the quality of the rebuild.
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Luke M
post Jan 1 2019, 08:20 AM
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QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Dec 29 2018, 08:37 PM) *

We’ve found 4 different versions of the racks. Currently have all the variations and will be doing a writ up of a rebuild I’m doing Monday. I can rebuild it for you. We also set the correct tension on the unit when Rowe rebuild them.
Many folks think it’s a simple take apart clean up and replace parts but there are a few variables that can affect the quality of the rebuild.




Hi Mark,

I have two steering racks which would need a refresh. One came out of a 71 914-4 (914.347.101.00) and the other out of my factory 6 (7820 900 138). I would need the 6 rack rebuilt for sure. When I removed the rubber boots I could see that grease was getting past the seals at both ends.

Do you sell a rebuild kit for the 6 (ZF) rack ? I checked your site but wasn't able to locate a kit.

Here's a few pics.


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Mikey914
post Jan 1 2019, 08:04 PM
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We do not sell the "kit" as we have found there are many variations. Bearing sizes, drag tension pucks and even the end bushings have 4 different variations after doing about 35 we still get surprised by variations. Just the other day a did a 912 one and found that even though they looked identical to others that we have done it utilized a bearing that we could not source as it was an oddball size. (fractional mm .5). No crossover to inches. Wound up manufacturing a part to utilize a bearing we could get. That and we have found all kind of DAPO "rebuilds" My favorite was the drag puck that was put back together without the sacrificial tension cover. Metal on metal. Tor the crap out of the shaft, but you couldn't tell until you took it apart. It just turned really hard. Opened it up to find lots of metal in the grease.

For something that seems pretty simple it can be more complicated.

Here's one the customer had written off as it was unable to turn and had rust inside.


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Mikey914
post Jan 1 2019, 08:29 PM
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Here's what we did


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Mikey914
post Jan 1 2019, 08:31 PM
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another
While not perfect still a great part


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Mikey914
post Jan 1 2019, 08:31 PM
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another


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Mikey914
post Jan 1 2019, 08:32 PM
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more


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Mikey914
post Jan 1 2019, 08:34 PM
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We were dong another baked finish, but I like the raw aluminum like factory best


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