Clutch tube repair, Tips Options

[BeemerSteve]

I have fixed them with a sheet metal screw and a conduit clamp as a temp......that lasted over 10yrs without an issue.

Second that, here's mine, i did a little blacksmithing on the conduit clamp to get the correct radius size, my 3/8 socket extension has just the right radius, for an anvil

That's what I'm looking to do and it looks like it'd be easy to do without welding. But first I have to open it up to make my assessment of the problem.
Thanks for the visual.

[bcheney]

I have fixed them with a sheet metal screw and a conduit clamp as a temp......that lasted over 10yrs without an issue.

Second that, here's mine, i did a little blacksmithing on the conduit clamp to get the correct radius size, my 3/8 socket extension has just the right radius, for an anvil

That's what I'm looking to do and it looks like it'd be easy to do without welding. But first I have to open it up to make my assessment of the problem.
Thanks for the visual.

What size is the conduit clamp and did you pick it up at Loews, Home Depot or Ace Hardware? What did you use to attach the clamp to the wall...sheet metal screw or nut and bolt?...what sizes...just want o know as much as possible before purchasing the bits.

[barefoot]

I have fixed them with a sheet metal screw and a conduit clamp as a temp......that lasted over 10yrs without an issue.

Second that, here's mine, i did a little blacksmithing on the conduit clamp to get the correct radius size, my 3/8 socket extension has just the right radius, for an anvil

That's what I'm looking to do and it looks like it'd be easy to do without welding. But first I have to open it up to make my assessment of the problem.
Thanks for the visual.

What size is the conduit clamp and did you pick it up at Loews, Home Depot or Ace Hardware? What did you use to attach the clamp to the wall...sheet metal screw or nut and bolt?...what sizes...just want o know as much as possible before purchasing the bits.

Well, my 3/8" extension measures .365" diameter, so guess the conduit clamp was for 3/8 tubing. I used a 1/4" bolt & nut.

[BeemerSteve]

I finally got to stripping all the stuff out to access the front tube and confirmed it is in fact the front bracket.

Question, when I cut the tunnel and peal it back enough to make the repair can I just continue to remove the square I cut back altogether and then duck tape the hole instead of knocking it back to weld it?

At that point I don't see a reason to be worried about a structural part of the tunnel....then I can cover it back up with carpet.

Remember, this car it destined for being a donor car anyway and all I want to do with it right now is to drive it while I restore the tub.

[jsaum]

I just bent the flap back in place and welded it in enough spots to secure it. The tunnel was cut up before I had the car. Here's a picture.

[Porschef]

My car has a repair done similar to Doc's, it's a cable clamp. Has worked fine in the 5+ years I've had the car. I'm just not a fan of mechanical substitution for welding but it's still there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I gather it failed in the tunnel and then repeated clutch action caused the firewall compromise; that's another repair point. And rust is not to blame here, there's virtually none in these areas. I just think it's another case of Hans und Franz letting their weld quality slip on a Friday afternoon while thinking of foamy steins at the Hofbrau Haus...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Steve, putting the clamp in takes a single drilled hole from the drivers side into the tunnel for the bolt to hold the clamp. No need to cut or bend anything. One hole. Drilled. About 3/16-1/4". That is it.

[BeemerSteve]

Steve, putting the clamp in takes a single drilled hole from the drivers side into the tunnel for the bolt to hold the clamp. No need to cut or bend anything. One hole. Drilled. About 3/16-1/4". That is it.

So, I can drill it through the existing opening just under the shift assembly....and then just push that over to the side and drill? By doing that I guess the clamp doesn't have to be all the way up to the end near the end of the tunnel nearest the pedal cluster, right?

[Dr Evil]

Nope. You would drill the hole in the wall m the drivers side of the tube. That way when you bolt the clip down it pulls the tube against the side wall like the weld used to.

[rgalla9146]

On the other hand......
Get a large diameter hole saw (2"- 2 1/2 ") and remove a large disc from the top of the tunnel for access.
No need to have an ugly flap. No welding. Your carpet will cover it.
As for the tube attachment, get a U shape cable clamp (or two) of the right diameter
( 1/2") and drill two holes in the side of tunnel to allow the legs of the clamp to be fed through.
Place the U over the tube and out the side of the tunnel through the two holes.
Put on two nuts, draw the tube to the inside wall of the tunnel.
Be careful..... don't overtighten.
Cut off excess threads on outside of tunnel
Done.
Do two clamps spaced a couple inches apart if you want to get fancy.

[BeemerSteve]

it the tube is loose but the firewall is still OK this means the middle bracket is still intact. the front bracket is the first to break.

in this case i weld a 1"x1" L-bracket to the tube. this minor solution is quick . you only have to remove the shifter and dont need to mess with fuel ines. i still stuff a wet rag against them just in case


did i mention remove clutch cable...

Hello, today I finished off repairing my clutch tube by using a conduit clamp and ss sheet metal screw. Basically, I removed the center gauge components and took the three bolts off the shifter then moved it over to install the clamp.....piece of cake!
It now shifts as it should be will have to rebuild the shifter itself down the road. Also, started to hear a throw out bearing noise that I'm sure will be alright like that for awhile until I swap over everything to the tub I'm working on.
Thanks everyone for all your help.....I really appreciate it!!

[913B]

nice job and bookmarked for future reference (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[cooper951]

it the tube is loose but the firewall is still OK this means the middle bracket is still intact. the front bracket is the first to break.

in this case i weld a 1"x1" L-bracket to the tube. this minor solution is quick . you only have to remove the shifter and dont need to mess with fuel ines. i still stuff a wet rag against them just in case


did i mention remove clutch cable...

I think my clutch tube may be loose up front. Where is this access point to the tunnel? Underneath where the shifter is?

TIA

[cooper951]

What do you have to remove to access the clutch tube at this point? I semi-removed the plate that holds the gear shift lever, but I don't see this.

Help?

[iankarr]

Once you remove the bolts on the top plate holding the shifter, rotate the assembly 90 degrees to provide more access to the hole. Shine a light towards the top driver's side of the opening and you should see the clutch tube (and a broken weld). Put the clamp as close as possible to the broken weld.

[rstover]

I need to thank Dr. Evil. I was searching for solutions on this site and went with the conduit repair. I could not find exactly what I thought would work best, but I ended up using a C type conduit clamp. It has one bolt hole in the top which was easy to put in. I then braced the tube into place and secured it with JB Weld. I tried to put rubber on the back side which might enable it to be removed. There was to much flex, so I put a small patch of JB Weld at the bottom. It is solid now.

I would have to disagree with thought that the best was to repair is to weld to the wall. The tube is held in place at the front with a spot welded strap.

If I was doing it again I would use the same bracket I would try and figure a way to hindge the bottom or tougue end which would allow it to be bolted at the bottom and then fold up the top end and fasten with a bolt. Sorry the picture is upside down. You can see the original strap in the back and the repair is in front of picture. The repair is about 1 inch from front of shifter opening.

[rstover]

Trying to post a better picture and each time it is upside down.

[porschetub]

Tube can be accessed and sometimes repaired through the shifter opening without cutting the tunnel. It's possible to remove shifter with out disturbing the rod

HHHHmmm heard this and pulled my shifter the most forward mounting is way past the shifter....not sure you can do much that way.

[iankarr]

Glad you sorted it out!

But you may want to consider a clamp that fits tight around the clutch tube while you still have everything open. The JB Weld may not hold up as well as steel against the flexing pressure.

[IronHillRestorations]

I've reinforced it at the firewall by fabbing an L plate and drilling holes to clamshell over the firewall. I drill the hole too small for the clutch tube and then "bugle" it towards the rear of the car to give more to weld to without blowing through the clutch tube. Then I weld the plate to the firewall and lip.