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> Go Big or Go Home: Clay's 914-6, MS3Pro Wiring in Progress
Should I paint the flat fan shroud?
Paint or not
Paint it Red to match the car [ 15 ] ** [23.81%]
Paint it some other color. [ 3 ] ** [4.76%]
Leave it the current amber fiberglass color [ 45 ] ** [71.43%]
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ClayPerrine
post Jan 20 2019, 03:11 PM
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Yesterday I got the clutch hooked up and the transmission installed. I made a temporary spacer for the clutch arm pivot to move the throw-out bearing closer to the pressure plate.
I tested the clutch with a grease gun hooked to the slave cylinder. The clutch works fine. I also mounted the starter to get the spacing between it and the ring gear correct.
I had to add a brace to keep the starter from shifting, as I don't have the starter adapter made yet. But the starter engages fine and the engine cranks.

Attached Image

I have to get different bolts for the pressure plate, as the heads of the current ones keep hitting the inside of the bell housing. I also have to pick up the replacement backup light switch from an early Boxster.
The later Cayman switch is too long and interferes with the battery cable lead to the starter.

Going to see my machinist this week to get the spacer for the clutch arm and the starter block made.

This has to be the slowest part of the development.

But I am making progress.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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wvspin2
post Apr 6 2019, 12:03 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) This is going to be the coolest ride on the planet. Above all keeping it Porsche is very special. Some have tried to persuade me to go to the dark side, renegade my 914, this thread keeps me honest. The challenges you have faced putting this terrific ride together are monumental. You have tremendous skill and patience. Your truly inspirational. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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ClayPerrine
post Apr 20 2019, 08:52 PM
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Today I got to work on my 4.0 conversion. The Cayman transmission has a hydraulic clutch, so I needed to make a way to hook it to the existing clutch pedal.

I fabricated a metal plate to hook to the pedal box, and stick out to the side to mount the clutch master. Simple plate with holes. I had already pulled the pedal box and brake master out of the chassis, so I bolted them together with the plate, and bolted the clutch master to the plate.

I marked where the clutch master would meet the clutch pedal. Then I disassembled the pedals, pulling the clutch pedal and arm. I won't need the spring with the hydraulic master, so it wont be reinstalled.

I drilled into the arm, and put a 6mm pin with a threaded end into it. That has a brass bushing that is 6mm on the inside, and 8mm on the outside so it fits in the factory end of the 964 clutch master cylinder.

Here are some picts of the assembled pedal box with the 964 clutch master.

Attached Image
Attached Image
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The plate I made is just a template to determine spacing between the brake and clutch masters. I had not trimmed it down when those pictures were taken.

Attached Image

This is the area on the chassis I have to modify. The plate is hanging off the stud on the left. It was trimmed to the correct length, and tapered to fit the clutch master cylinder location. I put a bare pedal box in the chassis so I could use it for the studs.

The black lines show where it needs modified. I have figured out that I need to cut the right vertical line, and the bottom line, then pull it out so that it is flat. I can then add metal on the side and the bottom to fill in the open holes.

Because of the neighborhood, my garage curfew is 9:00 PM. So I had to stop for the night.

More to come tomorrow (Unless we go to visit my MIL).

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Rob-O
post Apr 21 2019, 06:34 AM
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Cool!

I have two questions. The position where it’s connected, will it allow full stroke of the clutch master cylinder? Also, since the clutch master rod is below the clutch pedal arm, does this setup allow for the clutch pedal arm it’s full swing arc without hitting the clutch master rod? As much thought as you’ve put into this build I’d bet you’ve accounted for all this. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the horizontal portion of the clutch pedal arm looks really close to the clutch master rod.
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ClayPerrine
post Apr 21 2019, 07:50 AM
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QUOTE(Rob-O @ Apr 21 2019, 07:34 AM) *

Cool!

I have two questions. The position where it’s connected, will it allow full stroke of the clutch master cylinder? Also, since the clutch master rod is below the clutch pedal arm, does this setup allow for the clutch pedal arm it’s full swing arc without hitting the clutch master rod? As much thought as you’ve put into this build I’d bet you’ve accounted for all this. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the horizontal portion of the clutch pedal arm looks really close to the clutch master rod.


The clutch pedal is against the top stop when the clutch master is fully extended. When the pedal is down, the clutch master reaches full stroke. There is a recess in the floor for the end of the clutch pedal that also acts as a stop. I won't know if that works correctly until I get it on the car. But I am fairly sure it will. The pedal doesn't reach the bottom of the recess on either of the other two 914s when the clutch is adjusted correctly.

I am willing to bet most of you never realized that recess was there. It's built into the left mount for the crossmember.



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76-914
post Apr 21 2019, 08:18 AM
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What gauge metal is that plate? Looks thin? You running AN-3 down the old clutch tube like the rest of us? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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ClayPerrine
post Apr 21 2019, 08:54 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 21 2019, 09:18 AM) *

What gauge metal is that plate? Looks thin? You running AN-3 down the old clutch tube like the rest of us? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



The plate was made as a template to use to determine the location for the clutch master cylinder, not to take the whole load. I may weld it on as a doubler once I get the whole moved out. I have some metal from a parted out 914 to use for the extensions.

The metal the plate was made from is the same thickness as the pedal box. It flexes because it doesn't have any reinforcement bends in it.


The line from the clutch master to the engine compartment will be run next to the brake line down the tunnel. I probably won't use the clutch tube for anything.
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whitetwinturbo
post May 24 2019, 06:39 PM
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..........way interesting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914
post May 24 2019, 06:50 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Apr 21 2019, 07:54 AM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 21 2019, 09:18 AM) *

What gauge metal is that plate? Looks thin? You running AN-3 down the old clutch tube like the rest of us? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



The plate was made as a template to use to determine the location for the clutch master cylinder, not to take the whole load. I may weld it on as a doubler once I get the whole moved out. I have some metal from a parted out 914 to use for the extensions.

The metal the plate was made from is the same thickness as the pedal box. It flexes because it doesn't have any reinforcement bends in it.


The line from the clutch master to the engine compartment will be run next to the brake line down the tunnel. I probably won't use the clutch tube for anything.

It's your build but you might want to rethink that. Using the old clutch cable tube as a conduit will make it simple to R&R the AN-3 hose should the need arise; keep any unforeseen leaks out of the tunnel>cabin>carpet; prevent peaks & valleys that occur with non supported hose.
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ClayPerrine
post May 24 2019, 08:33 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ May 24 2019, 07:50 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Apr 21 2019, 07:54 AM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 21 2019, 09:18 AM) *

What gauge metal is that plate? Looks thin? You running AN-3 down the old clutch tube like the rest of us? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



The plate was made as a template to use to determine the location for the clutch master cylinder, not to take the whole load. I may weld it on as a doubler once I get the whole moved out. I have some metal from a parted out 914 to use for the extensions.

The metal the plate was made from is the same thickness as the pedal box. It flexes because it doesn't have any reinforcement bends in it.


The line from the clutch master to the engine compartment will be run next to the brake line down the tunnel. I probably won't use the clutch tube for anything.

It's your build but you might want to rethink that. Using the old clutch cable tube as a conduit will make it simple to R&R the AN-3 hose should the need arise; keep any unforeseen leaks out of the tunnel>cabin>carpet; prevent peaks & valleys that occur with non supported hose.



It is not AN3. It is bubble flared steel tubing, just like the brake line. I just bought all the tubing and I will be installing it this weekend.

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ClayPerrine
post Jun 8 2019, 06:20 PM
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Found an article on Pelican showing how to "back date" a 964 motor with an engine mounted oil cooler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...here-s-how.html


So today I pulled the camshaft off the Left side of the 4.0. Going to have the power steering pump drive machined off of it so I can transfer the factory 914-6 engine mounted oil cooler from the 2.4. It will make hooking up the oil lines and mounting the rear engine tin much easier.

I also got the master cylinder installed and the steel lines hooked up. Next I have to do the clutch master cylinder plumbing. No pictures, but I promise some tomorrow.



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porschetub
post Jun 8 2019, 07:26 PM
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That will be a fast car when finished,do the Audi transmissions all suffer from starter location issues also or is it just the boxster trans ?.
What have you planned for extra oil cooling after the 964 cooler mod ?.
Thinking that Pelican custom made cooler duct is rather large ? hope there is no loss of cooling to each cylinder,however the fan design for is much improved on the 993 engine so maybe not matter ?.
Great build keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .
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ClayPerrine
post Jun 9 2019, 05:32 AM
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QUOTE(porschetub @ Jun 8 2019, 08:26 PM) *

That will be a fast car when finished,do the Audi transmissions all suffer from starter location issues also or is it just the boxster trans ?.
What have you planned for extra oil cooling after the 964 cooler mod ?.
Thinking that Pelican custom made cooler duct is rather large ? hope there is no loss of cooling to each cylinder,however the fan design for is much improved on the 993 engine so maybe not matter ?.
Great build keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .



The Porsche Boxster/Cayman transmissions are the same as the Audi transmissions, so they will have the same starter issues.

I am also adding 2 factory 964 oil coolers on either side of the transmission to make sure it stays cool. The engine mounted oil cooler is more about hooking up the oil lines.The extra cooling is a bonus. I plan on cutting the cooler feeds off a 911 shourd and using them on the 964 shroud. I think it will be simpler that way.

Today I get to pull the cooler off the 2.4L so I have have it cleaned before installation. I am also going to finish up extending the DME harness so it fits the chassis right.


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porschetub
post Jun 9 2019, 10:29 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 9 2019, 11:32 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Jun 8 2019, 08:26 PM) *

That will be a fast car when finished,do the Audi transmissions all suffer from starter location issues also or is it just the boxster trans ?.
What have you planned for extra oil cooling after the 964 cooler mod ?.
Thinking that Pelican custom made cooler duct is rather large ? hope there is no loss of cooling to each cylinder,however the fan design for is much improved on the 993 engine so maybe not matter ?.
Great build keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .



The Porsche Boxster/Cayman transmissions are the same as the Audi transmissions, so they will have the same starter issues.

I am also adding 2 factory 964 oil coolers on either side of the transmission to make sure it stays cool. The engine mounted oil cooler is more about hooking up the oil lines.The extra cooling is a bonus. I plan on cutting the cooler feeds off a 911 and using them on the 964 shroud. I think it will be simpler that way.

Today I get to pull the cooler off the 2.4L so I have have it cleaned before installation. I am also going to finish up extending the DME harness so it fits the chassis right.

Thanks for the reply great build,good call on the cooler they tend to get rather dirty inside ,IMO more than most think,blew a cooler sold to me by the PO ,the replacement one was filthy even after I soaked it ,ultrasonic cleaning really finished the cleaning process.
The cooler ducting what ever you choose will be dependant on the shape of the 993 shroud to how it fits,may need work ?,I seem to remember the latter ones have more area around where the cooler mounts.

Go well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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ClayPerrine
post Jun 16 2019, 08:33 PM
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I made a lot of progress this weekend, so I wanted to share some photos.

DME wiring in Engine compartment (Sorry it's blurry)

Attached Image

Mount for Coils

Attached Image

DME fuse box and relays. I got rid of the problematic DME relay for 3 solid state relays. The wire over the last relay is the connection for the HEGO sensor.

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I have never had a proper oil line hook on my conversion. So I bought one from Restoration design and installed it.

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Steel starter mount. We found it much easier, cheaper, and lighter to make this than mill out a honking big expensive block of aluminum.

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After the first one was built, I added it to the motor. Once it was properly aligned (see the empty hole above the adapter) I found out it was too short and the gear on the bendix was engaged all the time. So I extended it with some steel tubes from the local Ace hardware.

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View down the starter hole showing the DME sensor. To replace the DME sensor, just remove the starter mount.

Attached Image


More updates on the oil cooler backdate and the clutch hydraulics to follow.
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ClayPerrine
post Jun 29 2019, 05:03 PM
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Well.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)

Got the cleaned 914-6 oil cooler back. Tried to install it.

Attached Image Attached Image

The oil cooler sticks out from the back of the case about 1/2 inch. That means the adapter plate hits it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I already pulled the cam, had the power steering pump drive removed, put a plug in the back of the cam carrier, and put it all back together, including timing the cams. And I had the adapter fitting made to hook the threaded fitting in the engine case to the bottom of the 914-6 oil cooler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)


Modifying a factory -6 oil cooler is out of the question. So I have a 964/993 oil line adapter for early cars coming from Pelican, and an oil cooler conversion fitting coming from Clewett. I am going to combine the two to make an adapter for the oil line.

Next up is to install the instrument cluster, run the wiring for the fuel pump and the diagnostic connector, pull the tank so I can change the fuel pump, and mount the ECU and altitude sensor. The ECU is going on the passenger side foot well wall and I was paranoid about drilling holes into the tank when I put in the ECU.

Instrument cluster pictures.

Attached Image

Attached Image

Made the first prototype of the oil cooler block off for the engine, and I need to cut out the sheet metal to make the second version. That one I am going to get TIG welded so it looks nice. (I never learned to make pretty welds).


Purchased a second 964 oil cooler, and a MAF replacement from a 964 RS. The cooler is here. The MAF and the oil line parts are on the way.

Attached Image


Gotta make time to put a clutch in Betty's car too.

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ClayPerrine
post Aug 4 2019, 09:35 PM
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Today was to put the engine and trans combo into the car. All the engine tin is done, the transmission mount is done, wiring is done, plugs and wires are in the car.

We are ready to put it in the car.

Attached Image


I get the front engine mount hooked up (with lots of profanities) and I run into this:


Attached Image

So I start second guessing the trans mount. But it was built off a jig that fits a 901 trans. So it's not wrong.

I do some more looking. Seems the new motor mount for the 3.6 based engine is longer.


Attached Image

I did a quick measurement against the one on the 2.4, and it is shorter, about the same amount as my transmission mounts are off.

So I called Rich Johnson. He made the mount. The reason it's longer is to clear the stock pulleys on the 3.6. Mine has a Clewett serpentine belt setup. I don't need the extra space for the pulleys. So I am going to rework the mount to be the same length as the one on the 2.4.



There are days when I wonder why I started this project.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Aug 5 2019, 08:28 AM
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that sure is a lot of work Clay! We put a 964 in a 914 a couple of years ago, what an effort! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjp1hi28rug
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76-914
post Aug 5 2019, 08:41 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Aug 4 2019, 10:35 PM) *

Uhh, because you don't want to waste your life watching TV and would rather do something constructive with your finite time on Earth? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Cairo94507
post Aug 5 2019, 09:13 AM
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Amen brother. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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