The Cap'n's valve adjustment procedure, Jim T and Cap'n Krusty's bestest way! Options

[914_teener]

If John were still here....and in some way he is, I'm sure he would comment.

He was quite a mechanic.

And... it's Krusty, to be crusty.

[ctc911ctc]

The original explanation promises that this is a method that one person could perform. However, in the chart I was mystified as to why I have to look for 2 valves rocking on opposite sides of the car?????? Example: 2 AND 3, etc.

I imagined (prior to thinking about this) that there was a position where #2 Ex and #3 In may not be in sync. This is not the case. THEY CAN NEVER BE OUT OF SYNC since the lobes are 180Deg out of phase.

This is where the Sun rose above my marble head.

The logic in the chart is wrong! This is the correct Logic:

Turn until Rocking: Adjust:
#2 Ex OR #3 In #4 Ex & #1 In
#1 Ex OR #2 In #3 Ex & #4 In
#4 Ex OR #1 In #2 Ex & #3 In
#3 Ex OR #4 In #1 Ex & #2 In
There is no case where #2 Ex is rocking and #4 Ex & #1 In are NOT Seated.

I see where you have gone with this. But.
By the same token when 2EX is rocking 3IN is also rocking.

And, you want to be SURE they are rocking before you adjust the opposing valves.

It only takes a second to swing your head over and make sure.

Zach

Zach,

Thanks for the note - but it begs the question: how could they NOT both be rockin unless the cam, push-rod, rocker was broken?

[ctc911ctc]

If John were still here....and in some way he is, I'm sure he would comment.

He was quite a mechanic.

And... it's Krusty, to be crusty.

Got it, changed to proper spelling.

[barefoot]

After reading this a few times and having it explained a few times, and still being the un-mechanical numskull I am, I had to draw a picture. NOW it makes sense. Rock close and Adjust Open. I know you mechanics will just laugh, but someday I'll catch on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Please note that this diagram has intake & exhaust valves mis-marked, Intakes are on the inside * exhausts are on the outside !!

[burton73]

The newer guys may catch a posting but The (Captain Krusty) was quite the character on line. Good info and great style. One of the guys I liked back in the day. 2007 when I joined, seems like a very long time ago.


Bob B

[iankarr]

i have the utmost respect for the Cap'n (may he rest in peace)...and his method obviously works. But this seems like the 914 equivalent of abbreviating the month of June. Why make this more complicated, just to save two turns of the engine? The TDC method is about as foolproof as it gets...and there's nothing for absent minded people like me to remember...or forget! Am I missing something?

[VaccaRabite]

i have the utmost respect for the Cap'n (may he rest in peace)...and his method obviously works. But this seems like the 914 equivalent of abbreviating the month of June. Why make this more complicated, just to save two turns of the engine? The TDC method is about as foolproof as it gets...and there's nothing for absent minded people like me to remember...or forget! Am I missing something?

Yes, you are missing something big.

You can adjust your valves in close to 1/2 the time, with no getting up and down and under the car and over the car. The whole thing is done under the car on your creeper. adjust 2 valves, push over and turn the wheel (while still on the creeper). Then push over and adjust the next 2 valves.

You never have to worry about "Am I sure I'm at TDC? Am I 180 off?" You aren't using chopsticks down your spark plug holes to test when the piston is at the top of its rise.

I made a simple chart I just keep in my shop manual that I can refer too when I do my valves. Its just that easy.

Zach

[iankarr]

I accomplish the same thing by just making a mark on the flyweel 180 degrees from the TDC notch. Both marks are viewable from the window at the base of the trans case. Never have to get out from under the car. But yes, I do need to spin the wheel two more times. For me, those extra two turns are a worthy tradeoff for not having to remember anything. But, as I mentioned, I may be more prone to A.D.D. than most. To each his own...

[JamesM]

I accomplish the same thing by just making a mark on the flyweel 180 degrees from the TDC notch. Both marks are viewable from the window at the base of the trans case. Never have to get out from under the car. But yes, I do need to spin the wheel two more times. For me, those extra two turns are a worthy tradeoff for not having to remember anything. But, as I mentioned, I may be more prone to A.D.D. than most. To each his own...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) This is the way I prefer to go. Just did a valve adjustment this weekend and never got up off the creeper once, didnt even pull the distributor cap. Line up a mark on the flywheel, find the cyl where both I&E are not under pressure, adjust. Roll the engine 180 to the next mark and repeat in firing order.

I have done the Krusty method in the past until i discovered on one of my motors with a hotter cam while rechecking everything at TDC the clearances were different then when checking at the location used in the Krusty method. Since then, my OCD has not allowed me to adjust at anything other than TDC. Interestingly enough found that the clearances were tighter at TDC than when the opposing valve was full open meaning had i not went back and fixed it at TDC I would have potentially been tight/open valves. Wouldnt have expected that, but since discovering it I always go with the TDC method.

[72hardtop]

Been a long time since I've found a T-4 with sodium filled valves. Most that were rebuilt no longer have them. The newer stainless tool steel valves are far superior. .006 for both intake and exhaust.

[StarBear]

OK; I'm digging up this oldie but goodie for a 1.8L question:
Looking underneath my 1.8, it looks like (?) the passenger side valve cover is blocked by the heat exchangers. I recall (??) reading years ago that the heat exchangers needed to be dropped on that side to do that side's valves. No mention of that here, in Haynes, nor in Georges Tech Tips.

Verdad, or is dementia setting in? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Shivers]

I have never heard that in that way. I do know what a pain in the butt it is and it sure would make it easier if you could buy a few inches.

[brant]

Never adjusted valves on a 1.8
But…. All displacements have the same motor block
All different years of heat exchangers can bolt up to other years

You don’t have to drop anything
You just have to be willing to work in a confined space

[914_teener]

OK; I'm digging up this oldie but goodie for a 1.8L question:
Looking underneath my 1.8, it looks like (?) the passenger side valve cover is blocked by the heat exchangers. I recall (??) reading years ago that the heat exchangers needed to be dropped on that side to do that side's valves. No mention of that here, in Haynes, nor in Georges Tech Tips.

Verdad, or is dementia setting in? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Does this mean you haven't adjusted the valves in your car for years?

[StarBear]

OK; I'm digging up this oldie but goodie for a 1.8L question:
Looking underneath my 1.8, it looks like (?) the passenger side valve cover is blocked by the heat exchangers. I recall (??) reading years ago that the heat exchangers needed to be dropped on that side to do that side's valves. No mention of that here, in Haynes, nor in Georges Tech Tips.

Verdad, or is dementia setting in? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Does this mean you haven't adjusted the valves in your car for years?

Regrettably, yes. Not that many miles (5000), so about time. They sound ok…. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Eric_Ciampa]

You don’t need to drop the HE on any 914-4 to adjust the valves. It’s just a bit tighter space for your head, hands, and tools. I wouldn’t recommend dropping for easier access just for the valves. Limit your potential for unexpected problems. If you have more work to do, like pushrod seals, then sure.

[StarBear]

You don’t need to drop the HE on any 914-4 to adjust the valves. It’s just a bit tighter space for your head, hands, and tools. I wouldn’t recommend dropping for easier access just for the valves. Limit your potential for unexpected problems. If you have more work to do, like pushrod seals, then sure.

Ah. Thanks! Yes, pushrods seeping a little bit but not enough to warrant effort.
Will proceed…. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[rjames]

Also don't use the heat exchangers for leverage when moving the bales that secure the valve covers. If I run into problems trying to move them I usually just pop them out of the holder on the end. When reinstalling you can use some grease where they come in contact with the valve cover to make them slide into position easier.

[emerygt350]

I use the wrap a rag around the bale and pull. You could fasten the rag or rope to something immovable (the jack) and then jack the car up.

Getting in there to adjust 2 and 4 sucks.

[Rusty]

Seeing Cap'n Krusty's name made me smile.