Finally - GT project, Build of 914-6 GT Options

[Mitox]

Why don't you put a borescope in there and take a look first?

Guess I’m lost. Why? In where?

[Mitox]

Why don't you put a borescope in there and take a look first?

Guess I’m lost. Why? In where?

Oh, you’re referring to the hole on the structural section? Sorry for the slow brain cells. My mind is focused on paint - going nuts trying to find someone to put a finish on my car

[Mitox]

Well, haven’t received any suggestions on painters, but I found two close by.

The first is excellent, though like previous finds, he sold his shop and is ready to retire. Currently he wants the project, but I will need to wait another 10 months for him to start.

The second posted pics of a 914 GT job he was working on 914world Facebook. The pics look good, but I haven’t had a chance to visit his shop yet.

If anyone knows of a good painter, please let me know. I’m willing to bring the car to most areas of Virginia, NC, SC, TN, or WV. Maybe further.

I’d love to paint it myself, but the job and life doesn’t allow.

[rgalla9146]

I dig those flares! Keeping it white?

Well, I'm having some trouble deciding on color. I want to keep the original color, but white is boring to me. I may go with green; if I do it will be the 2008 Green, or Viper green.

Looks fantastic ! Great work.
White is an outstanding color! ... not boring at all.
Most factory racers were white.
Avoid the difficult task of changing your color code tag.
If I may....

[Mitox]

I dig those flares! Keeping it white?

Well, I'm having some trouble deciding on color. I want to keep the original color, but white is boring to me. I may go with green; if I do it will be the 2008 Green, or Viper green.

Looks fantastic ! Great work.
White is an outstanding color! ... not boring at all.
Most factory racers were white.
Avoid the difficult task of changing your color code tag.
If I may....

I must admit your car in white looks fantastic. I like the white bumpers also.
Is it ivory white, or another code?

[rgalla9146]

I dig those flares! Keeping it white?

Well, I'm having some trouble deciding on color. I want to keep the original color, but white is boring to me. I may go with green; if I do it will be the 2008 Green, or Viper green.

Looks fantastic ! Great work.
White is an outstanding color! ... not boring at all.
Most factory racers were white.
Avoid the difficult task of changing your color code tag.
If I may....

I must admit your car in white looks fantastic. I like the white bumpers also.
Is it ivory white, or another code?

Light Ivory L80 E The body color bumpers ? I wanted it to look like a '70-'71
no option stripper. No vinyl either.
Thank you
Don't worry, your car will look fantastic no matter what color.

[Mitox]

So, it heads off to another paint shop this coming weekend (someone that promises not to retire before completing the paint), so I’m reinstalling the suspension so I can roll it onto a trailer.

One problem and question for the many more knowledgeable than I: I can’t get the top of the strut up to the mount. I’m sure there’s something simple, but I don’t know what to do. I’ve stretched the strut out, and used a jack to push the assembly up, but can’t it it all the way up.

Any thoughts?

[mepstein]

A jack usually does it for me but one time I had to extend the shaft of the strut insert, hold it with a vise grip (piece of rubber sheet to protect the shaft) and then jack it up so the could put the nut on it. Some inserts are threaded in the shaft so you can use a long bolt to pull them up.

[rgalla9146]

I agree with Mark.
For now leave the dust cover off so that you can keep the shaft exposed and extended.
Worst case remove the 'dog bone' adjuster at the rear of the torsion bar
so that the lower control arm can be raised at the ball joint.
If the shaft is threaded internally at the top thread a long bolt into it and pull it up with a vise grip.

[Luke M]

Take off the t-bar cap and lift the strut into place. Sometimes the shocks are stiff to pull out but should go. It maybe just binding on the t-bars which is not allowing you to go up as far as you need.

[Mitox]

Thanks for the input; I’ll try each suggestion this evening. It came off, so it’s gotta go back somehow.

[Mitox]

Evidently, a blood sacrifice is required. I tried everything until my hand slipped leaving blood on the brake shield. After wrapping my hand up, I tried again - it moved very easily into place. Maybe the strut was just stuck...

[Mitox]

I’m trying to be sure I have addressed everything prior to paint, and can’t stop thinking about more reinforcements. MadDog has inner longs panels that look like a good idea. Is this overkill, or beneficial?

My car is a very rust free car, but this could help reduce flex I think.

[peteyd]

I’m trying to be sure I have addressed everything prior to paint, and can’t stop thinking about more reinforcements. MadDog has inner longs panels that look like a good idea. Is this overkill, or beneficial?

My car is a very rust free car, but this could help reduce flex I think.

If your car is rust free I wouldn't do that mod. There is a chance you could put too much heat into the chassis while welding which will twist the chassis. Then you will be regretting it big time.

Pete

[Mitox]

I’m trying to be sure I have addressed everything prior to paint, and can’t stop thinking about more reinforcements. MadDog has inner longs panels that look like a good idea. Is this overkill, or beneficial?

My car is a very rust free car, but this could help reduce flex I think.

If your car is rust free I wouldn't do that mod. There is a chance you could put too much heat into the chassis while welding which will twist the chassis. Then you will be regretting it big time.

Pete

Hmm, good point. I hadn’t considered that.
Thanks for the input.

[Mitox]

I’m trying to be sure I have addressed everything prior to paint, and can’t stop thinking about more reinforcements. MadDog has inner longs panels that look like a good idea. Is this overkill, or beneficial?

My car is a very rust free car, but this could help reduce flex I think.

If your car is rust free I wouldn't do that mod. There is a chance you could put too much heat into the chassis while welding which will twist the chassis. Then you will be regretting it big time.

Pete

Hmm, good point. I hadn’t considered that.
Thanks for the input.

[914forme]

If you brace properly and Take your time, you are going to be good.

But I would set the chassis down on the middle section. Let the weight of the two ends unsupported and mount the doors and get you bracing set with proper gaps, add tap at each gap measurement, and write down your beginning measurement, and continue on from there. If you take your time, very little chance you will fleet the chassis.

Lots of them have been installed proper bracing of the opening is key.

I did my first set with a porta-power running from targa bar to footwells. Jacked it open to what I wanted and started welding. Just took my time, gaps never changed.

I coated both sides with weld through primer heavy zinc stuff, then took a drill bit made the tip flat, and cleaned each plug weld hole out. Then welded each one out becasreful not to put to much heat into the chassis.

I have seen your work, you got this.

[Mitox]

If you brace properly and Take your time, you are going to be good.

But I would set the chassis down on the middle section. Let the weight of the two ends unsupported and mount the doors and get you bracing set with proper gaps, add tap at each gap measurement, and write down your beginning measurement, and continue on from there. If you take your time, very little chance you will fleet the chassis.

Lots of them have been installed proper bracing of the opening is key.

I did my first set with a porta-power running from targa bar to footwells. Jacked it open to what I wanted and started welding. Just took my time, gaps never changed.

I coated both sides with weld through primer heavy zinc stuff, then took a drill bit made the tip flat, and cleaned each plug weld hole out. Then welded each one out becasreful not to put to much heat into the chassis.

I have seen your work, you got this.

Thanks for the suggestions; seems like a good method to move forward with the reinforcement panels. I’m going to bring to car to a frame guy to check and straighten as needed prior to adding the panels. I know it needs tweaking; a PO covered some damage rather well.

I’m also thinking about adding the front panels Mad Dog has. I already have the original sway bar plates, but this would reinforce an area damaged in the previously hidden wreck area.

[Mitox]

My painter has been delayed a couple weeks - good thing since I have more to do.

Just finished the oil cooler base, mount, and front cut out. Later I’ll make a bracket to hold the cooler more firmly.

I’m still not happy with the fiberglass shroud; it has huge gaps where it should fit to the car. Maybe I’ll make one, or have a moment of weakness and buy one from Mittelmotor.

[mepstein]

My painter has been delayed a couple weeks - good thing since I have more to do.

Just finished the oil cooler base, mount, and front cut out. Later I’ll make a bracket to hold the cooler more firmly.

I’m still not happy with the fiberglass shroud; it has huge gaps where it should fit to the car. Maybe I’ll make one, or have a moment of weakness and buy one from Mittelmotor.

I don’t care for the glass ones either. I’m hoping to have Ben build me one in aluminum. May he can make more than one. It won’t be cheap but it won’t be Mittlemotor pricing. @MB911 .