Finally - GT project, Build of 914-6 GT Options

[Mitox]

I’m wanted to have my chassis checked prior to bodywork and paint due to the PO hiding damage on the car, but I wasn’t expecting the answer I got back.



He’s telling me that he may be able to straighten the chassis after removing the passenger fender and front panel that was replaced by PO, but that he highly recommends removing and replacing the inner fender, fender, and front panel along with a little more surrounding metal.

This sucks!!- guess I need to find a good passenger side front section.

Talked with the guy that will straighten the car out, and it looks like I need to find a good passenger inner fender and front panel at a minimum. The hard part is getting these parts separated from everything else attached; it maybe best to find a wrecked or parts car that has a good front end.

With the virus issue it will be difficult to travel, so if anyone knows of or has parts in Virginia, please let me know.

[Mitox]

The body is now in the shop where it will be straitened out and painted. It’s enough to drive me mad, but eventually it will be back on the road.

Anyway, while the body is gone, I’ve begun working on the suspension. While making space in the garage, I decided to disassemble the old front suspension to make it easier to move and sell.

The torsion rods are surprisingly clean. Does anyone know if these are original or aftermarkets?

[Matty900]

Just dropped my GT tribute off at the body shop for paint yesterday too. You are making great progress. Once the car comes back all pretty it's great motivation to keep going. Start getting the things ready that will be going back in first and building up a parts pile of restored parts your going to have a lot of fun soon (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[mepstein]

The body is now in the shop where it will be straitened out and painted. It’s enough to drive me mad, but eventually it will be back on the road.

Anyway, while the body is gone, I’ve begun working on the suspension. While making space in the garage, I decided to disassemble the old front suspension to make it easier to move and sell.

The torsion rods are surprisingly clean. Does anyone know if these are original or aftermarkets?

measure them and see what marks are on the end.

[Mitox]

The cross section seems to be 18mm. One end of each is as shown in the photo below, and the other end has either R or L . Wonder why the side is identified unless the metal grain is specific to the side in some way.

[mepstein]

I'm no expert but they look stock to me. The markings face out and the rods should be put back on the same side as they came out. From what I understand, they are side specific once used so they mark them so when they are removed, they get put back in the correct side.

[Mitox]

I'm no expert but they look stock to me. The markings face out and the rods should be put back on the same side as they came out. From what I understand, they are side specific once used so they mark them so when they are removed, they get put back in the correct side.

Yeah, I think they are stock. One marking kinda looks like a VW mark, but don’t know.

As for L/R, your statement “side specific once used” makes a lot of sense.

[raynekat]

The torsion bars are not side specific before they are used.
Only after they have been used are they side specific....they get used to twisting a certain direction.
If you twist them the opposite direction, they can break.

They are label L and R from the factory (and aftermarket for that matter) to keep it simple in knowing which bar came from which side of the car.
And thus which side to return each bar to.

You could just as easily without problems put a new L bar in the right side and visa versa with the R bar.
The problem is that someone down the line may not remember (or know) that the sides have been switched and then you potentially have problems with the bars breaking if they are put in the opposite side of the car.

Clear as mud I'm sure..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Mitox]

The torsion bars are not side specific before they are used.
Only after they have been used are they side specific....they get used to twisting a certain direction.
If you twist them the opposite direction, they can break.

They are label L and R from the factory (and aftermarket for that matter) to keep it simple in knowing which bar came from which side of the car.
And thus which side to return each bar to.

You could just as easily without problems put a new L bar in the right side and visa versa with the R bar.
The problem is that someone down the line may not remember (or know) that the sides have been switched and then you potentially have problems with the bars breaking if they are put in the opposite side of the car.

Clear as mud I'm sure..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Thanks, it does make sense once I exercised the second brain cell. It was hard to get that one going though. Reversing the twist on a bar that has been moving one direction for some time would likely induce stress fractures. The factory was smart to label them.

[Mitox]

Moving forward now. The hidden damage on the front drivers side is being cut out and replaced. A PO evidently smashed the passenger front side, removed some of the smashed pieces, “straightened” the inner wheel well, then replaced the fender and front panel afterward. All wrinkles were conveniently hidden with filler.

Well, to fix it, we are reversing the process and will replace the inner wheel well also. All will be perfect when completed.

Some in process pics below; just started removing the inner.

[gms]

Make sure the stamped VIN in the inner wheel house is not removed

[Mitox]

Make sure the stamped VIN in the inner wheel house is not removed

Thanks for the reminder. It will be retained, but I had let it slip from the plans. Getting too excited about progress I guess.

[Mitox]

While the body is being reworked and painted, my primary task is to get the suspension ready to bolt back on. I’ve started on the trailing arms.

Welded on the reinforcement and prepped it to accept the 911 E-brake system. I think I want to keep the shield, but I’ll need to move one mount that interferes with the E-brakes and will need to modify the shield for the relocated mount.

I’ve ordered the E-brake cable kit from Chris Foley last month, so waiting on that to see how everything fits up.

[Mitox]

And a few months later - the inner fender is fully removed. There’s a little surface rust in the bottom of enclosed areas, but but nothing worrisome.

[Mitox]

Meanwhile, back in the garage ...

I’ve gathered the remaining parts needed to complete the trailing arms (except for new rubber bushings). Trial fit is in work to ensure everything works before final welds and paint. The high tech wooden bearing is helping out nicely.

[Mitox]

While I'm impatiently waiting on the front fender reconstruction and paint, I've been researching the many options and opinions on suspension setup.

My plan (subject to change) is to use:
- the original 19mm torsion bars in the donor '84 911 front end
- Koni 914 strut inserts KON-8641-1077 (I think they fit the 911 strut)
- Koni 914 rear shocks and spring set up from Ground Control
- no rear sway bar
- All new rubber bushings - most likely Elephant's

Remaining issues:
- What spring rate to use on the rear - 140?
- what front sway bar to use and what diameter - 21mm?

I'd appreciate any input to help finish the plan and purchase list.

Does this make sense?? What suggestion would you have for changes or for the spring rate and front sway bars??

Driving style will be "wannabe" racer, but actually mountain curves as fast as I can without wrecking or hurting my back on bumps.


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[CptTripps]

I've no advise to offer on the last questions, but just wanted to comment that this is a damn nice build. Well done, sir.

[mepstein]

A 21mm front sway bar is a BIG bar on a 914 and will increase the stiff feel of the 911 torsion bars that are for a 2700 lb 911. I'm not saying it's wrong and I certainly don't have the education in suspension like smarter people here but... It's going to be pretty stiff on the road.

[Retroracer]

You'll probably get too many answers with too many variables to your question, but I'll chime in, just to add to the melange:

So FWIW, my set up - on a GT /6 clone with mostly fiberglass everything, but roll cage & much stiffening welded in - is as follows:

- stock /4 torsion bars front, Sachs inserts in 911 struts
- stock /4 springs rear, Bilsteins height adjustable
- Weltmeister 21mm front sway bar, H&H adjustable arms
- no rear sway bar
- Falken street tires on 7Jx15 F, 8Jx15 R

I was concerned with Marks point about the front sway bar being too much, but the softest setting on the H&H arms (which are longer than the stock ones) works well for spirited canyon driving, and was not hideous on a recent track day either. CA freeway driving is pretty comfortable (with ear protectors in...!).

My car is pretty lightweight so the stock springs cope OK; if I was auto crossing then I'd think about stiffer springs and more expensive shocks, as well as dialing up the front sway bar. Also, $$ investment on the sticky tires du jour.

Again, FWIW,

- Tony

[Mitox]

I've no advise to offer on the last questions, but just wanted to comment that this is a damn nice build. Well done, sir.

Thanks - hopefully, the reassembly begins soon.