Remove transmission. Options

[Keith914]

Need to replace rear crankshaft oil seal. What is least amount of work: drop engine/transmission, or support engine in car and remove transmission?

[DavidSweden]

Need to replace rear crankshaft oil seal. What is least amount of work: drop engine/transmission, or support engine in car and remove transmission?

I have done this by dropping the transmission and removing the fly wheel.
Make sure you support the engine where it joins the gearbox. If its easier than removing the Engine? Well I guess so if you have a lift and tools.

Good luck

[SLITS]

Remove the tranny ....

The engine drop will additionally require removal/plugging of fuel lines, disconnection of the electrical and two more bolts on the engine bar.

Remove muffler & bracket .... support engine ... remove 4 tranny mount bolts, CVs, starter, clutch cable, speedo cable and drop back of tranny about 2" ... no need to remove HEs

[Keith914]

Thanks for advice. Will leave engine in place and proceed as you suggest. Will report back.

[stugray]

just did this recently to rebuild my trans:

Jack car up & place on jackstands
support engine with floor jack on engine block side of trans interface
loosen front motor mounts where bar mates to body (depending on year bolt may have a lot of thread) so that you dont stress rubber mounts at engine when tipping.
I removed my exhaust because I have stubs so I didnt have to unbolt from heads
You might be able to remove trans with exhaust in place, but mine is aftermarket so your results may be different
remove shift linkage from firewall back
disconnect clutch cable & speedo cable
disconnect ground strap at top of trans
disconnect CV joints at trans and put in plastic bags OK to leave them hanging, but some tie them up high

Crack all 4 bolts loose that hold the trans in place but do not remove (one above/behind the starter requires two people? and access from engine bay)
remove 4X small bolts that hold trans mounts to body (engine&trans will fall at this point if not supported at engine)
watch in engine bay as you lower engine/trans a few degrees with floor jack and make sure no interference with rear of engine bay
Put trans floor jack under trans, take the weight and trans should slide right off
Put jackstand or blocks under engine to hold it (DO NOT leave it on the floor jack)

[mitche]

just did this recently to rebuild my trans:

Jack car up & place on jackstands
support engine with floor jack on engine block side of trans interface
loosen front motor mounts where bar mates to body (depending on year bolt may have a lot of thread) so that you dont stress rubber mounts at engine when tipping.
I removed my exhaust because I have stubs so I didnt have to unbolt from heads
You might be able to remove trans with exhaust in place, but mine is aftermarket so your results may be different
remove shift linkage from firewall back
disconnect clutch cable & speedo cable
disconnect ground strap at top of trans
disconnect CV joints at trans and put in plastic bags OK to leave them hanging, but some tie them up high

Crack all 4 bolts loose that hold the trans in place but do not remove (one above/behind the starter requires two people? and access from engine bay)
remove 4X small bolts that hold trans mounts to body (engine&trans will fall at this point if not supported at engine)
watch in engine bay as you lower engine/trans a few degrees with floor jack and make sure no interference with rear of engine bay
Put trans floor jack under trans, take the weight and trans should slide right off
Put jackstand or blocks under engine to hold it (DO NOT leave it on the floor jack)

I just did as above, but the engine and trans will not disengage/separate......

Going crazy here.....

Thing is that reason to make thos manouver is due to I think that the flywheel is rusted to the engine (is it even possible?).

When I put a gear in, the wheels can turn with no problem.
When I try to start the car, the starter cant turn the engine, when I take off the starter it works excellent.

And now I cant separate them two....

Tired... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[stugray]

Try to actuate the clutch. The Throw out bearing will try to separate the trans from the engine

[mitche]

Try to actuate the clutch. The Throw out bearing will try to separate the trans from the engine

Did not work either...

So now the the whole engine is out, and all the bolts is gone but I cannot in H£ll seperate the two of them.

Have I missed anything thats in front of my eyes?

Soon I will get my very big hammer and just go for it.

mike

[TheCabinetmaker]

Did you remove all four bolts or nuts from the bell housing? Never seen one not come loose

[mitche]

Did you remove all four bolts or nuts from the bell housing? Never seen one not come loose

Yes I did, but I think this engine has been under water or something similar... I bought it from Copart and they dont always give you the whole story...

Bolts is away, starter is away - I can get a 5mm gap between bell housing and trans but thats all...

Have gone crazy with WD40 and will wait and see...

Thanks anyway
mike

[stugray]

Did you remove all four bolts or nuts from the bell housing? Never seen one not come loose

Yes I did, but I think this engine has been under water or something similar... I bought it from Copart and they dont always give you the whole story...

Bolts is away, starter is away - I can get a 5mm gap between bell housing and trans but thats all...

Have gone crazy with WD40 and will wait and see...

Thanks anyway
mike

Ok, you cant turn the engine, but can you rotate the trans?
If you can turn the trans, you can try to remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel by reaching through the starter hole.

The driveshaft splines must be rusted (fused) into the clutch disk

Is it a tail shift? I would (myself) rather destroy an engine to save a sideshift, but a tail shift is mostly disposable.
Even if you have to destroy the case to get it loose, the internals might be worth something (not if it was submerged for years though)

[76-914]

Did you remove all four bolts or nuts from the bell housing? Never seen one not come loose

Yes I did, but I think this engine has been under water or something similar... I bought it from Copart and they dont always give you the whole story...

Bolts is away, starter is away - I can get a 5mm gap between bell housing and trans but thats all...

Have gone crazy with WD40 and will wait and see...

Thanks anyway
mike

Ok, you cant turn the engine, but can you rotate the trans?
If you can turn the trans, you can try to remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel by reaching through the starter hole.

The driveshaft splines must be rusted (fused) into the clutch disk

Is it a tail shift? I would (myself) rather destroy an engine to save a sideshift, but a tail shift is mostly disposable.
Even if you have to destroy the case to get it loose, the internals might be worth something (not if it was submerged for years though)

You've nailed it but I think he said his engine won't turn with the starter bolted on. If I were him I'd bolt that starter back up, put it in 1st or reverse and try rocking the car front to back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Cracker]

Except now he stated the engine is out of the car...I like the suggestion of unbolting the pressure plate and allowing the clutch & PP to come out as unit. Good luck.

You've nailed it but I think he said his engine won't turn with the starter bolted on. If I were him I'd bolt that starter back up, put it in 1st or reverse and try rocking the car front to back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Jeffs9146]

You could try to put it in 5th gear manually and turn the output shafts while pulling the trans away from the engine.

[mitche]

You could try to put it in 5th gear manually and turn the output shafts while pulling the trans away from the engine.

Update:

When I put in any gear the driveshafts just turns around just like there is no gear in place.

This makes me believe that the clutch is corroded in "engaged" position, correct assumption?

I can with a big hammer turn the flywheel so I can reach every 13mm nut through the starter hole. Should I remove these 13 mm nuts?



Cheers
Mike

BTW here's the beauty...

[76-914]

then absolutely (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[stugray]

I can with a big hammer turn the flywheel so I can reach every 13mm nut through the starter hole. Should I remove these 13 mm nuts?

I dont understand that you can turn the FW with a big hammer...

What is stopping you from just leaving the engine stationary (and the FW) and just twisting the trans while it is stuck to the back of the engine?

Cant you just rotate the trans case to reach all the Clutch plate bolts?
If the clutch is engaged (stuck even) and the driveshaft is stuck into the clutch disk, and all 4 bolts are out, what is stopping you from just twisting the trans while it is still attached? (unless the trans driveshaft is frozen too?)

I dont recall any large pins in the trans mating surface that protrude into the engine case.

[mitche]

I can with a big hammer turn the flywheel so I can reach every 13mm nut through the starter hole. Should I remove these 13 mm nuts?

I dont understand that you can turn the FW with a big hammer...

What is stopping you from just leaving the engine stationary (and the FW) and just twisting the trans while it is stuck to the back of the engine?

Cant you just rotate the trans case to reach all the Clutch plate bolts?
If the clutch is engaged (stuck even) and the driveshaft is stuck into the clutch disk, and all 4 bolts are out, what is stopping you from just twisting the trans while it is still attached? (unless the trans driveshaft is frozen too?)

I dont recall any large pins in the trans mating surface that protrude into the engine case.

Well the bottom two bolts are studs (correct word) so I cannot twist the whole transmission.
Now the 6 bolts from the flywheel are out, and I am going to try to separate the two of them.

Wish me luck

[mitche]

I can with a big hammer turn the flywheel so I can reach every 13mm nut through the starter hole. Should I remove these 13 mm nuts?

I dont understand that you can turn the FW with a big hammer...

What is stopping you from just leaving the engine stationary (and the FW) and just twisting the trans while it is stuck to the back of the engine?

Cant you just rotate the trans case to reach all the Clutch plate bolts?
If the clutch is engaged (stuck even) and the driveshaft is stuck into the clutch disk, and all 4 bolts are out, what is stopping you from just twisting the trans while it is still attached? (unless the trans driveshaft is frozen too?)

I dont recall any large pins in the trans mating surface that protrude into the engine case.

Well the bottom two bolts are studs (correct word) so I cannot twist the whole transmission.
Now the 6 bolts from the flywheel are out, and I am going to try to separate the two of them.

Wish me luck

For those interested, I finally succeeded!

It was the axle from the gearbox going inside the engine (lost the word...) that was corroded.

So, how to move along and remove the flywheel?

Mike

[iankarr]

Congrats! At this point you should be able to follow the steps in the Pelican article on replacing the clutch...starting on page two, fig. 24.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ch_replace1.htm