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> Floor Pan Coating?
dgraves
post Oct 15 2016, 09:50 AM
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As I continue the refurbishment of my '74 914, I notice that the floor pan inside the car has some kind of a 3/16" protective coating. Parts of this have chipped away. Does anyone have a substitute application to patch and restore the floor pan?
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Mikey914
post Oct 15 2016, 10:54 AM
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It's basically a tar pad. They are known to have hidden and even promoted rust by holding water. Others have used Dynamat, and Home depot actually has the material inexpensively. The question is do you want to put it back in, once you have removed it.
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dgraves
post Oct 15 2016, 11:54 AM
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Thank you. Luckily, the car is pretty rust free amazingly enough. So, I thought re-establishing it would be a good thing. It appears that it was applied right over the bare metal and then the stock/original paint applied over it. Do you know what was used in the areas where the floor met the side walls?



QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Oct 15 2016, 10:54 AM) *

It's basically a tar pad. They are known to have hidden and even promoted rust by holding water. Others have used Dynamat, and Home depot actually has the material inexpensively. The question is do you want to put it back in, once you have removed it.
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BeatNavy
post Oct 15 2016, 12:07 PM
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QUOTE(dgraves @ Oct 15 2016, 01:54 PM) *

Do you know what was used in the areas where the floor met the side walls?

Factory seam sealer. Lots and lots of factory seam sealer.

Taking out that tar board is a worthwhile but time-consuming project. I think getting that stuff out of the car is a good idea. As Mark said, you can put something in its place for sound dampening (like dynamat). Do a search here for tarboard threads and you'll see how people handled removing this stuff and what they did (or did not do) to replace it.

I remember Scotty advising to put dynamat (or something similar) except in the low spots on the pan where water could collect.
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Mikey914
post Oct 15 2016, 12:12 PM
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If you really want to protect it, I'd have it coated with bed-liner. If you really want the OEM look, put the tar over it. You can easily cut yourself, but protect the metal.
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jcd914
post Oct 15 2016, 12:37 PM
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QUOTE(dgraves @ Oct 15 2016, 10:54 AM) *

It appears that it was applied right over the bare metal and then the stock/original paint applied over it.



This is the problem with it.
Water gets under the tar and ust starts since the metal is not painted or primed or sealed.

You can't see the rust because the tar is so thick.

Many here have found lots of rust under the tar when they though there was little or no rust there.

Jim
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slotty008
post Oct 15 2016, 01:28 PM
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It's a pain to remove the tar coating . But I think you really should do it , because the rust gets underneath. I'm in the course of doing it right now; takes a lot of time. Afterwards I'm gonna put 2 coats of zinc paint on the metal and then a layer of Dynamat.
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ndfrigi
post Oct 15 2016, 02:24 PM
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you may see like these under tar.

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ndfrigi
post Oct 15 2016, 02:25 PM
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Mr.Nobody
post Oct 15 2016, 05:06 PM
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What are people's thoughts on the best way to remove the tar?

Does the dry ice trick work? Or is this a grinder type of operation?
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matthepcat
post Oct 15 2016, 05:22 PM
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Heat gun and large screw driver or chisel worked for me. Came off in big chunks.
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stevegm
post Oct 15 2016, 05:47 PM
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QUOTE(matthepcat @ Oct 15 2016, 07:22 PM) *

Heat gun and large screw driver or chisel worked for me. Came off in big chunks.



I agree. Heat gun and flat scraper. Then wire wheel on a drill to get in corners, etc. Then ospho, scuff with 220, epoxy primer, and top coat with body color.
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bandjoey
post Oct 15 2016, 10:52 PM
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$39 multi tool at Harbor Freight. It cuts the tar out like hot butter. 80% less time and mess of a heat gun
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cary
post Oct 16 2016, 06:54 AM
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My .02c.
Heat gun and multi-tool or air chisel. Your using the heat gun to break the adhesive bond, not melt the tar. So the heat gun is going on and off the field of material.
Works for me .................
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mepstein
post Oct 16 2016, 07:33 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Oct 16 2016, 08:54 AM) *

My .02c.
Heat gun and multi-tool or air chisel. Your using the heat gun to break the adhesive bond, not melt the tar. So the heat gun is going on and off the field of material.
Works for me .................

Same reason some guys use dry ice. Breaks the adhesive bond.
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cary
post Oct 16 2016, 07:48 AM
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I plan to try that on the next race car strip down.
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74ravenna
post Oct 16 2016, 08:08 AM
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I hate to ask but does anyone know what the "tar" consists of?

Has anyone had it tested?

In my industry tar coating is usually asbestos. Asbestos is added for strength and corrosive protection.

I can't imagine they would've needed asbestos in the mix, but it was the 70s.

I'm guessing I'm going to catch hell for this question but my concern isn't so much for me as it is for you and your family members (who am i kidding, actually i am concerned for me too).


Steve
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74ravenna
post Oct 16 2016, 10:59 AM
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Did porsche use this method of coating on the 911s also?
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rmdinmd
post Oct 16 2016, 05:22 PM
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As long as the fibers don't float in the air you are fine. if sanding or wire wheeling wear a dust mask. like many things a one time encounter isn't going to hurt you. sort of like a sunburn; one probable won't cause cancer, keep getting sunburns a lot and good chance it might. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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tomeric914
post Oct 16 2016, 05:35 PM
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If you don't want to to use an adhesive backed sound sheet for fear of water entrapment, consider something like Spectrum or Spectrum Sludge

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/spectrum/

I used Spectrum on a VW Bug pan over 10 years ago and it's still going strong. I used a brush to apply multiple coats after I had completed all rust repairs and primed the pan. Definitely got rid of the tinniness of a bare metal pan.
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