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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time...
ChrisFoley
post May 2 2018, 11:01 AM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 2 2018, 12:17 PM) *


I'm still at the head-scratching stage and in looking at the DP2 (it's the car pictured here), it's using a pretty shallow angle and what seems to be a relatively small scoop to successfully cool an LS3.

A front facing inlet doesn't have to be that large to let a lot of air in.
Even more important is pressure differential and the area of the exit from the rad.

Here's a pic of the semi-tube frame I installed in that white widebody.

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Andyrew
post May 2 2018, 12:28 PM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 2 2018, 09:17 AM) *

Thanks Mr. Foley!
I'm still at the head-scratching stage and in looking at the DP2 (it's the car pictured here), it's using a pretty shallow angle and what seems to be a relatively small scoop to successfully cool an LS3.

Granted, there's no sheet metal behind the DP2 rads but I figure I could loose most of the inner wheel house sheet (and if needed, add some louvers to the top of the flares) to get the needed air flow.

In the perfect world, I'm wondering if I could widen my steel GT flares enough to make this work..

As always, "We shall see..."



You'll need to pull the fenders, not just widen the flares. The GT flares dont add any area in front of the wheels unlike say my Bontempi flares. IF you removed the inner fender (structural) you can probably gain enough room to do something like this, but I would imagine you would need a radiator on both sides.
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tygaboy
post May 2 2018, 01:01 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 2 2018, 11:28 AM) *

You'll need to pull the fenders, not just widen the flares. The GT flares dont add any area in front of the wheels unlike say my Bontempi flares. IF you removed the inner fender (structural) you can probably gain enough room to do something like this, but I would imagine you would need a radiator on both sides.


Yep, I wonder if there'd be enough room, even with the widened GT flare - that's why I started with the comments about going wide body.
And the plan would include a rad on each side. Here's another couple pics of the DP2 that shows the basic approach I'm looking at.
He's got a lot more freedom/room, given the clean sheet design but I'm encouraged by that low angle and small-ish scoop.
Wish me luck and I'll post updates as I make progress.


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Cracker
post May 2 2018, 01:13 PM
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Chris: I am going to start keeping a list of "Cracker" inspired themes on your race-rod! You just take everything to new levels! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

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tygaboy
post May 5 2018, 07:09 PM
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I finished the exhaust today. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


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tygaboy
post May 5 2018, 07:13 PM
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But on the off chance that turns out to be too loud, I got a Magnaflow internal cross over muffler. Each header feeds in the uppers on each side and the exhaust tips both come off the lower tubes. The muffler will mount like this here, except I'll use metal and not just blue tape and bondo spreaders...


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tygaboy
post May 5 2018, 07:14 PM
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Weld porn...


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tygaboy
post May 5 2018, 07:15 PM
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Routing looks like this.


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tygaboy
post May 5 2018, 07:15 PM
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And like this. The pic makes the tube look close to the tire but it's well inboard of the inner fender line. The tire would have to be rubbing on the inner fender and it still wouldn't hit the exhaust tube.


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tygaboy
post May 5 2018, 07:18 PM
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One side from the header to the muffler was all but completed so it was time to play with exhaust tips.

Option 1 and option 2 use the same small piece of tube, just flipped around.
I'll decide soon.

Yes, the muffler looks low but it's well above the lowest point of the trans.


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Cracker
post May 5 2018, 07:59 PM
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Um, that looks familiar...good job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

T

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tygaboy
post May 6 2018, 04:57 PM
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On to fabrication of a bracket to support the muffler.


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tygaboy
post May 6 2018, 04:59 PM
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Clearance, but not a lot. Good thing I moved the drive train forward 1.5"...!


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Andyrew
post May 6 2018, 08:46 PM
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Just know that first 90deg turn is going to be HOT. My stainless severely blued on that one spot and it's almost 3ft from the turbo!
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Cracker
post May 6 2018, 09:18 PM
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It works...even on this same engine. The hottest area I have seen is at the collector...first day of fab years ago on the exhaust (below).

The bigger concern I would have is the exhaust muffler heats affect on the trunk area - I believe Chris is trying to fab a functional space above this area.

T

QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 6 2018, 10:46 PM) *

Just know that first 90deg turn is going to be HOT. My stainless severely blued on that one spot and it's almost 3ft from the turbo!


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tygaboy
post May 12 2018, 04:29 PM
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A few things happened today. I was rummaging through the parts boxes and came across the "original" Renegade water connections. I thought:
- the outlets point straight forward...
- right at the opening in the firewall...
- if I made a full tunnel then removed the bottom of it, sorta like an traditional front engine car, I could run recessed hard water lines and other systems items...

So I think that's what I'll do. Console redo #3! But whatever, I think it'll be cool. I kinda wanted to do this in the first place so it's really just coming full circle.


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tygaboy
post May 12 2018, 04:33 PM
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And as long as the hood was up, so to speak, I went back to another idea: running the stacks open but building some sort of air box/filter set up. I have a few ideas so the first step was to see how close I could come to accurately measuring then fabbing up the piece that forms the bottom but allows the throttle bodies to poke through.

First time's the charm and I nailed it! (I'm still new enough at this fab stuff that I'm always amazed when what I plan actually works out.)

Now to work out the rest - like some creative shaping up near the firewall.

And I have a couple interesting design ideas that this air box approach will need to leverage. More as I get to it.


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tygaboy
post May 12 2018, 04:35 PM
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And not to be outdone by Brett and his critter pics, here's mine for today:

Even the local reptiles are "hanging on every step" of my build.


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mgp4591
post May 12 2018, 06:08 PM
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Chris, just wondering what the advantage is in having the bottom open in the center tunnel in your new/old design - is the purpose to make access to the coolant lines easier? I'm also running mine down a redesigned center tunnel because my floor and console were eaten and it will add to the stiffening structure. I know you don't need additional support because the design you've got going on... pretty impressive stuff!
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Rand
post May 12 2018, 06:13 PM
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It will bring heat into the cabin. Not that it's a problem depending on where you live, but just a thought. I've heard of oil cooler lines in the longs making a noticeable difference. Andy and Amoy can comment about that.

Keep up the great work! Stellar project.
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