BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time... Options

[tygaboy]

@burton73 - Thanks for the input, Bob. I have that pic of that car's set up.

Those lines look to be up inside the tunnel. Nice protection for sure and I was contemplating that earlier on. I decided against it for the "heat inside the car" reason. Plus, the "Gates lines under the car" has been proven to work.

I'm no fluid dynamics expert but it sounds like a couple hard 90 degree bends aren't really an issue?

[tygaboy]

Fabricating and fitting the side shrouding took quite a while with what felt like 100 reps of "in for the test fit, out to tweak an edge, back in to test fit..." But I got the result I was after.

I'm thinking I'll powder coat the radiator support then rivet these panels to it.

[burton73]

@burton73 - Thanks for the input, Bob. I have that pic of that car's set up.

Those lines look to be up inside the tunnel. Nice protection for sure and I was contemplating that earlier on. I decided against it for the "heat inside the car" reason. Plus, the "Gates lines under the car" has been proven to work.

I'm no fluid dynamics expert but it sounds like a couple hard 90 degree bends aren't really an issue?

The gates hose in the heater tube at the point where it made the 90, made the hose squish down and I did not want the squishing of the green stripe hose to get a reduced flow there.

I am not sure how it would have worked as I went with the hard elbow there.

Bob B
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[FL000]

Planning and mock-up for radiator hard lines. The hoses are just to help size the lengths of the straight sections. The plan at this point is that both will be one piece from the hose connection at the radiator and through the bulkhead panel. It looks like I can fab a bracket to support things so the connection to the Gates hose happens just behind the steering rack.

This design hides the transition from hard line to soft while enabling me to keep the lines as close to the frunk wall as I can. This to create as much room as possible for the battery, as well as air flow.

Comments on this approach from other experienced water-cooled folks appreciated. @Andyrew @BIGKAT_83 @ValcoOscar @dan10101 @burton73 and others I'm sure I'm forgetting.

Other than yours looking nicer than mine that sounds like the same basic route I took and works fine!

[tygaboy]

Other than yours looking nicer than mine that sounds like the same basic route I took and works fine!

@FL 000 - Yours looks great! That's the Renegade set up, isn't it? That's what I started with But I wanted to create more room behind the radiator so ended up building the frame set up.

[tygaboy]

Fab'd and fit the other side. On to drilling for rivets...

[Andyrew]

Hard line looks messy. Lower one is fine, but top one with that large gap is messy. I think this looks better.

Solid hard line with soft connection by the rack is a great idea.

Gonna make it out of aluminum pipe or stainless?

[Andyrew]

Fab'd and fit the other side. On to drilling for rivets...

Damn nice. That's a very tedious area.

[Andyrew]

I'm no fluid dynamics expert but it sounds like a couple hard 90 degree bends aren't really an issue?

Not for water flow. If it's pipe bent it'll have enough radius that flow won't be an issue.

You are planning an external water pump?

[tygaboy]

@Andyrew - I have a Mezier remote, electric water pump. It mounts on the driver side of the engine cross bar.
The hard lines are aluminum. Here's the initial routing with some of the welding complete.
Again, the lower hose is just mocked in place with the connector hose just holding the two tubes in place.

To get the lines to tuck close to the fire wall and wheel well, I had to slice the hose connections off the radiator and clock them to point straight back. A little more work but it maximizes the amount of space I have for the battery. Plus, I like the way it looks.

[Curbandgutter]

Wow, I love the way those hard lines are looking. I've never like the rubber lines just dangling out the way it's typically done. Very clean look for sure.

[Andyrew]

@Andyrew - I have a Mezier remote, electric water pump. It mounts on the driver side of the engine cross bar.
The hard lines are aluminum. Here's the initial routing with some of the welding complete.
Again, the lower hose is just mocked in place with the connector hose just holding the two tubes in place.

To get the lines to tuck close to the fire wall and wheel well, I had to slice the hose connections off the radiator and clock them to point straight back. A little more work but it maximizes the amount of space I have for the battery. Plus, I like the way it looks.

That looks good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Whats the material? Aluminum?

[andys]

Wow, I love the way those hard lines are looking. I've never like the rubber lines just dangling out the way it's typically done. Very clean look for sure.

Except that you do need some rubber couplers in strategic places, as the aluminum hardlines will expand and contract rather significantly. Just thought I'd mention it. Yup, those hardlines do look good!
Andys

[tygaboy]

Wow, I love the way those hard lines are looking. I've never like the rubber lines just dangling out the way it's typically done. Very clean look for sure.

Except that you do need some rubber couplers in strategic places, as the aluminum hardlines will expand and contract rather significantly. Just thought I'd mention it. Yup, those hardlines do look good!
Andys

@andys - I was planning rubber between the hard line and the radiator and just past the trunk wall, the hard line transitions to the Gates hose. There will be a couple rubber isolated mount P-clamps helping support the lines, as well.

Would you think that'll be OK? (I could always redo the hard lines in stainless, if needed.)

[Cairo94507]

Chris that looks great!

[Krieger]

You've really got a lot of things done recently!

[Andyrew]

I doubt you'll have any problems with the alum hardlines for longevity. I used stainless on mine only because I don't have a tig...

[76-914]

@Andyrew - I have a Mezier remote, electric water pump. It mounts on the driver side of the engine cross bar.

Good choice; quality pumps. Are you running the 45gpm pump. I may have missed this; which controller will you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jd74914]

I'm no fluid dynamics expert but it sounds like a couple hard 90 degree bends aren't really an issue?

Not for water flow. If it's pipe bent it'll have enough radius that flow won't be an issue.

I wouldn't quite make that statement...for a smooth [or welded] tube bend of this size you're gaining about 1-1.5ft effective length for every 90* elbow. Likely not an issue, but when you're on the edge that can add up. Not saying you're on the edge Chris-I'm sure you'll be fine, especially since you don't have a crazy excessive amount of bends.

The lines and shrouding looks awesome!

@Andyrew - I have a Mezier remote, electric water pump. It mounts on the driver side of the engine cross bar.

Good choice; quality pumps. Are you running the 45gpm pump. I may have missed this; which controller will you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Can you use a PWM output on your ECU to control a solid state relay? Or ECU signal (CAN or PWM) to control an InfinityBox output? It'd be a lot more elegant than having another distributed controller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[tygaboy]

@76-914 @jd74914 - It's a 55 GPM pump, same one as pictured. As to switching the fans, I can use the ECU or the Infinity Box system. The 2nd pic of one of the Infinity Box options.