BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time... Options

[tygaboy]

Ignition harness done, tested and installed.
Note that all my large current loads are managed via the PMU so none of the "big stuff" (starter, alt, fuel pump, fans, lights, blower, wipers) pass through these wires.
Yep, over built for what it'll have to handle but I prefer under-stressed electrical systems!

[tygaboy]

The behind the dash layout is essentially complete. Part of the planning was to be sure that every section of the harness can be unplugged and pulled through anywhere it passes through the chassis - all without any drama.

The zip ties locate each branch point so once things are final, I can pull it all out, sheath and seal the entire thing and reinstall it. Nearly there with the front-of-chassis harnesses!

[bkrantz]

Nicely done--and smart strategy. My OCD approves!

[Andyrew]

Very nice! Love the brackets!

[Superhawk996]

Love the wiring - nice demonstration of how to use connectors that are more appropriate than 1950's technology (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[tygaboy]

Love the wiring - nice demonstration of how to use connectors that are more appropriate than 1950's technology (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

@Superhawk996 - Oh, you want connectors? HERE'S a connector! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

With the ECU moved to inside the cabin, I have to pass the engine harness through the firewall. Yes, THAT firewall. The one I made three different times. I've been laying awake at night thinking:
"Really? You're going to cut a hole in your firewall? You, the guy who changes his mind all the time..." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

The answer is "Why yes. Yes I am!". But that means I need to be sure and fill that hole with something pretty cool. So I decided I'd use this. It's a Mil-Spec 61-pin, 1/4 turn quick disconnect bulkhead connector.
Disconnect it and the entire engine harness stays with the engine when the drive train needs to come out.

Yes, I cheaped out and went with a Mil-Spec vs. the Deutsch Autosport series (AS) model. And here's why:
The Deutsch AS version would have cost ~$450. Yep, for one connector.
While not that same ridiculously high level of quality, this mil-spec version is $185. Still not cheap but quite a savings - and most importantly, the quality and capability is still WAAAAAAY overkill for a street car.
All that said, I'll still be sweating when I cut that hole in the firewall... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[tygaboy]

A way-too-much-detail post about wiring:
I'm documenting to this level so that when I sell the car (which I will, at some point) there will be a ridiculous amount of supporting info about how and what I did re: the wiring - all of which will be completely sealed in sheathing and essentially unable to be "inspected"...

These are my first practice samples of open barrel crimps. The goal is no soldered joints anywhere in the car. Soldering turns stranded wire into solid wire and increases the chances of a vibration or stress-related failure.
While there are lots of examples of soldered joints not failing, I'm opting for open barrel crimps.
These first two are practice samples to be sure the crimp size works with the wires being spliced. Having the correct crimping tool make the crimp process simple.

The gray example is 16 ga, the green is 18 ga. If you think these wires look smaller than what you'd expect for those gauges, you'd be right. Read on, if you dare! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

WARNING: FULL GEEK ALERT:
This is M22759/32 Tefzel wire. It's a lightweight, high temperature wire insulated with a single layer of cross-linked, modified ethylene-tetrafluoroethylene (ETFE) insulation. The insulation provides superior cut-\rough and abrasion resistance and where where high temperatures, smoke emissions, and flammability are a concern. It has a maximum temperature of +150°C and a voltage rating of 600V.

[tygaboy]

As I just mentioned, having the right crimp tool really helps. But doing these crimps in the car while ensuring the wires are correctly positioned in the crimp? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Less easy! But I got them done.

The gray wire is the parking lights. The main feed from the PMU splits with one to the front park lights and one to the rears.
The green is right turn signal. Here, I have the main feed from the PMU, one to the front signal and one to the rear one to the rear. That 4th? It feeds the indicator light in the dash. And yes, I almost forgot that one. I had the other three in the crimp and I was just about to squeeze. Thankfully, I caught myself.

This pic is also a good example of the adhesive heat shrink, post recovery. This is Raychem SCL which as well as being a sealing heat shrink (you can see the sealant oozing out of each end) is rigid, meaning you're looking at two sealed AND strain relieved splices.

And to keep the harness as small as possible, it's best practice to do all you can to stagger spices. I have one more to go in this general area (the left signal) and so far, so good.

[Andyrew]

Crimp vs solder, good choice. Factory wiring harnesses crimp everything for that main reason, learned this when I took apart a couple Audi harnesses. Love the results here!

[tazz9924]

WARNING: FULL GEEK ALERT:
This is M22759/32 Tefzel wire. It's a lightweight, high temperature wire insulated with a single layer of cross-linked, modified ethylene-tetrafluoroethylene (ETFE) insulation. The insulation provides superior cut-\rough and abrasion resistance and where where high temperatures, smoke emissions, and flammability are a concern. It has a maximum temperature of +150°C and a voltage rating of 600V.

Is this straight from the head or mostly copy pasted. I can geek out to but im by no means that consise.

[Superhawk996]

The goal is no soldered joints anywhere in the car. Soldering turns stranded wire into solid wire and increases the chances of a vibration or stress-related failure.
While there are lots of examples of soldered joints not failing, I'm opting for open barrel crimps.

Good Man! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Crimps ARE better and more reliable than soldering. Aerospace knows this, automotive, and F1 motorsport all know this. Proven out by millions of hours of test and development - not a theory.

"Crimping is an efficient and highly reliable method to assemble and terminate conductors, and typically provides a stronger, more reliable termination method than that achieved by soldering." Excerpted from NASA document.



https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20b...quirements.html
See section 2.01 for source of the quote and the graphic

Totally understand the move to avoid the Deutsch Autosport connector. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Nice to see you using proper sealing shrink wrap too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Wiring is another top notch touch that is going to set your car above the usual hack and whack resto-mods out there. Really nice! Everytime I view your thread I'm blown away. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

How many sets of barrel crimp tools do you now own? As a former electronics tech that used to work on multi-pin connectors just like that, the inner geek in me really enjoyed the precise ratchet sound and click that the barrel crimp tools made. Having a whole bench of just the right tool for each connector style was a luxury I no longer have but still envy!

[Shivers]

Nice wiring

[tygaboy]

WARNING: FULL GEEK ALERT:
This is M22759/32 Tefzel wire...

Is this straight from the head or mostly copy pasted. I can geek out to but im by no means that concise.

@tazz9924 - I wish I was that smart/able to remember those sorts of details. Copy paste on this one - and I'll happily admit it. For better or worse, I find that since the internet, I only seem to memorize the stuff I regularly need to know... Crap! I've become Googlezied!

[tygaboy]

The goal is no soldered joints anywhere in the car. Soldering turns stranded wire into solid wire and increases the chances of a vibration or stress-related failure.
While there are lots of examples of soldered joints not failing, I'm opting for open barrel crimps.

Good Man! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Wiring is another top notch touch that is going to set your car above the usual hack and whack resto-mods out there. Really nice! Everytime I view your thread I'm blown away. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

How many sets of barrel crimp tools do you now own?

@Superhawk996 - Pardon my edit to your original post. Just trying to save space! Thanks for your kind words. Having seen my share of modded cars, it's interesting that the wiring isn't more often "featured". Yes, I know, "hidden" seems to be the thing. But a tidy set of harnesses is, to me, a thing of beauty. Anyway...
On the crimp tools, I think I'm up to around seven pair, overall with two that'll do the barrel crimps.
I'm about to break out the DMC AFM8 for the first time to do the Mil-Spec connector work! Excited and nervous at the same time.

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

Back in the day we had tech manuals that specified part numbers, tool number, and in some cases, info on crimp tool settings. Not terribly hard to figure out, but, avoided trial and error set up, especially when under pressure when equipment was down.

Have some spare pins on hand & then have some fun!

[tazz9924]

WARNING: FULL GEEK ALERT:
This is M22759/32 Tefzel wire...

Is this straight from the head or mostly copy pasted. I can geek out to but im by no means that concise.

@tazz9924 - I wish I was that smart/able to remember those sorts of details. Copy paste on this one - and I'll happily admit it. For better or worse, I find that since the internet, I only seem to memorize the stuff I regularly need to know... Crap! I've become Googlezied!

Im in the same boat my friend

[tygaboy]

Left turn signal circuit splice crimped then sealed with SCL.

[tygaboy]

If there's anything more boring than pictures about wiring, it just may be a video about it. You can't get this ~3 minutes back so...Don't say you weren't warned! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDhEbbw7qhI

[tygaboy]

I only need five 12v battery hot connections so I used a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector.
Here are the back and front with the needed harness sheathed in DR25, the connector end sealed with SCL and the connector mounted to a clip on the fuse block mount.
Pretty tidy, IMO. And yes, as always, overkill for a street car. But there you go.

[tygaboy]

And temporarily mocked up in the car.
I'll be adding another similar harness to this to support the needed ignition hot circuits.
Getting there!